I said I'd show how to refresh/renew the odometer numerals, so here we go. First, please don't use any of the so-called decals sold by any of the aftermarket vendors. Nothing against the sellers of these, but my experience is you won't be happy. Instead invest in some printable waterslide decal paper. You can buy this in 4 varieties: inkjet clear, inkjet white, laser clear and laser white. You can not print white with any printer except the horribly expensive ones I doubt many people have access to, so the answer for decals needing white is to use white paper and then print on top of it. IMPORTANT NOTE: if you use an inkjet printer and inkjet paper, you must coat the printed part with clear lacquer, urethane, enamel or it will disappear when you immerse the decal in water. Just as a matter of habit, I will also spray clear on the laser printed ones. Another note: the decal I've created for the odometer numerals isn't perfect. Perfection doesn't exist with something like this, but mine is pretty good and probably good enough. If you want it, send a PM with your email address and I'll send you a printable Microsoft Word document with that decal template on it (which you can print to your waterslide decal paper.
Remove the wheel assembly by removing the brass clip you find opposite the 1/10 mile wheel, slide the assembly to one side and then out. Clean the assembly carefully with a paper towel and some naphtha to remove any oil/wax, etc. Then very carefully cut the 1/10 numerals off of the decal sheet, making certain to keep a straight line on the sides and at the top. In the first image below you see the decal sheet I've made before I cut it. In the second image, you can see I've done the 1/10 mile wheel (the black one with white numerals). You may look at the numbers and think "gee, that looks pretty good. Wonder why he's renewing it?" Well, you can't see where the numbers sat in one place for years and were bleached to almost nothing by the sun. Start lining up with 0 and work carefully around. You'll get the hang of the waterslide decal stuff after a bit. It isn't difficult and it isn't like the heavy gelatin stuff we knew in the 50s and 60s. Today's paper is very thin but works well...if you do it right. Make certain your numbers line up with the old ones as much as possible. Then set this aside for a few minutes to dry a bit. Maybe 10 minutes. Long enough to have a cup of tea. Now trim the first of the actual mileage number strips off and repeat the process as you see I've done in the second image below. Then continue to the next row as I've done in the third image and in the fourth image you'll see I've done all of the wheels. Now I'll take the assembly outside and set it in the sunshine where it can really dry out for an hour or so. Then, reverse the procedure you used to remove the wheel assembly (being very careful to insert the slotted tabs on the metal edge there) and re-install the clip. Your unit ought to look like you see in the fifth image, which at this point is about as good as I can offer on renewal of these numerals. Good luck.
that looks amazing nice work, i want to try these water decals one day for guages and stuff.
wondering about which font you use, the 1 looks different, original doesn't have the feet on it, the original 0 seems more round, i have some fonts that GM used a bunch of places, i should check if any i've collected match the odo better please PM me your file if you can i am interested in this topic
i'll let you know what fonts i come up with too thanks -s
Thanks...I tried to attach the template file to this posting. Let's see if it works. The font was something I found on a site which is no longer active. A fellow had posted some speedometer numerals (don't know where he got them). He also had created an odometer wheel template, but it was the wrong length and width. I never could find anything that matched original. As you may recall when I was creating the "look-alike" speedometer from the Speedhut electronic unit (for people like me using the T5 transmission with an electronic output), I never could find the fonts to match the original so after tedious editing work I created some which got close enough.
okay i found my stash of fonts that i go to for all things GM and Chevy in the 50s attached screenshot of what they look like not sure at the moment which of these is a "money" font so if you want to try to figure out how to get one onto your computer PM me or try to find it on the common font websites
edit - sometimes it's necessary to mix and match fonts to get the original look of a document, just have to play with kerning, weight and style to make them work together -s
Last edited by 2ManyTrucks; Wed Feb 24 2021 12:11 AM.