The Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


The site has expanded to include the 1973 to 1987 trucks!

Check out the new forum just for them and welcome our newest brothers and sisters with the "Rounded Line" trucks.
Encourage one another! Share what you've learned!

Stovebolt Site Search
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!

Who's Online Now
11 members (78buckshot, Bill Trotter, 5 Window 9434, campbell45, bandbrent, 1 invisible), 139 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 3 of 3 1 2 3
Re: Radio location patch
53&Me #1398003 Fri Feb 19 2021 10:09 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,979
I wouldn't weld it...especially if this kind of work isn't something you've got a comfort level for. You can find yourself in deep water quickly welding this thickness of metal. And welding is something I learned nearly 60 years ago and have done commercially. This is a non-load bearing, non-stress area so I'd first get my replacement piece in hand, and then I'd carefully cut out a rectangle in the dash using a saber saw and a thin metal blade. Go slowly with good light. Then make a pattern on a piece of thin cardboard (like cereal box). Hold that thin cardboard under your dash or tape it on so it fits all around the curved area and using a sharp pencil trace the cutout shape onto it. Make careful note of where any knob holes ought to be. Then, cut out your cardboard model and transfer that to the replacement piece carefully aligning for knob holes, etc. Mark it on the replacement piece carefully and cut that replacement piece to fit. Then I'd do two things: 1. epoxy a metal flange (same thickness of the dashboard metal or slightly thinner) around the perimeter of the opening on the back side of the dash 2. bed the replacement piece in on top of the flange you made once it has cured with either JB-Weld or 3M Panel Bonding epoxy. Sand both the flange and the replacement piece well where it will be epoxied. Both of those products are going to work about the same, by the way. Finish with a thin coat of body filler, sand and you'll be done and ready to prime/paint. PS...if you're concerned about using JB-Weld, please don't be. Below you can see an area where the roof pan meets the upright pillar on my truck. Around 1978 this seam cracked and I repaired it using JB-Weld rather than weld it. There's no line at all even after 40+ years. Good luck.

Attached Files
roof to pillar.jpg (17.15 KB, 84 downloads)


1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Radio location patch
53&Me #1398020 Sat Feb 20 2021 12:39 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3,651
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I use .023 wire for mig welding sheet metal.
But Jon G's approach is definitely attractive. Like he said, it's not a structural area and JB Weld is plenty strong enough.

First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos []
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Radio location patch
glenns towing #1398382 Mon Feb 22 2021 02:01 PM
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 75
53&Me Offline OP
great! thank you

Re: Radio location patch
53&Me #1398443 Tue Feb 23 2021 01:28 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,232
I didnt think about JB Weld. That would be much more efficient to boot, especially for an inexperienced welder.

Page 3 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  HandyAndy, klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4