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1950 passenger door gap
#1397514 Tue Feb 16 2021 03:01 AM
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 63
R
'Bolter
I have tried bending top hinge, enlarging hinge slot holes but I can not get the gap closed to 1/8 inch gap especially where front of food meets cowl panel at bottom of window. Everything is held in with metal screws until I sort out. Any suggestions

Rick

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Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397529 Tue Feb 16 2021 08:01 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,178
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The spec for the front edge of the door is 1/8 to 3/16 inches. Yours doesn't look that bad. As long as the front and rear gaps are about the same, I'd probably call it good.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397536 Tue Feb 16 2021 12:27 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 96
A
'Bolter
What is the shape of your hinges?
You might want to rebuild them if they are worn/loose.
That could help with the gap and will assuredly help later on when adjusting your door latch to achieve a positive catch.
Search this site for hinge rebuilding. A lot of expert advice.


Mike
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton w/ 1959 235
1971 Chevelle
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397542 Tue Feb 16 2021 01:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,087
P
AD Addict
The belt line on the back of the door looks like it could go up a bit which would help in front, and it looks like the gap on the back of the door is much tighter than the gap at the front. Can you slide the door forward and raise the back a bit?

Last edited by Phak1; Tue Feb 16 2021 01:30 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery

‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397592 Tue Feb 16 2021 08:29 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,178
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'd have to agree with Phil after a second look at your pictures (had to squint a bit though grin ) on the worn hinges. Usually the passenger door doesn't get as much wear, but after 70+ years, who knows. I'm in the process of rebuilding mine including brass bushings and oversize pins.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397597 Tue Feb 16 2021 09:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 63
R
'Bolter
Thanks to everyone for their feedback. I do have the rebuild kit for the hinges so I will try that. Although I dont notice much play in them. The belt line will come up if a hold it up slightly and I was assuming when I put in the door latch that would help. I wish I could move the door forward but I am at the limit on the top hinge with the extra opening of slots I put in. I did not do anything to the lower hinge in the way of extending the slots and maybe that holds the top one from going all the way forward? And like the other comment maybe if I cant get it any better leave as is. It closes perfectly right now but for sure the rear door gap is tight and the front loose.

Last edited by Rick Brown; Tue Feb 16 2021 09:40 PM.
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397618 Wed Feb 17 2021 01:33 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,765
5
'Bolter
When it comes to building an A-D cab, one must take the position that one starts with a door and builds the cab to fit it.
I see a lot of spot welds in the outer cowl. Are they all welded up already? It would be really cool if they weren't. It would make it easier to move the cowl forward to give you more room for the door to fit.
Absolutely rebuild the hinges whether they need it or not. They do need it.
After you have rebuilt the hinges, remount the door. Leave the strikers on the work bench. They will only hamper the door alignment process. The latch is not supposed to play any part of aligning the door to the cab. The bottom of the latch is not supposed to contact the striker (only the safety catch contacts the striker upon closing of the door).
Bottom line is, you cannot properly adjust the door to the opening with the striker in place.

Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397627 Wed Feb 17 2021 02:08 AM
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 63
R
'Bolter
Nothing has been welded up what you may be seeing is the propane torch burn marks as I used it to remove the solder joint. So I will start with the hinge rebuilt and go from there . If I move the cowl forward it won’t help because the door won’t move any further forward and not because it is hitting anything

Last edited by Rick Brown; Wed Feb 17 2021 02:13 AM.
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397754 Thu Feb 18 2021 01:36 AM
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 122
C
'Bolter
Since you stated the '51 doors fit fine, it sounds like your problem is with the '50 doors and not the existing hinges or the latches. I would recommend trying to fit the '50 door in the door opening without the hinges or latches installed and place wood wedges 1/8" - 3/16" thickness all around the door, including the window opening to see if the '50 door actually fits. You can support the door with a floor jack while you fit it. If the door does not fit properly without the hinges/latches, it most certainly will not fit with them, without major metal working. Good luck!


Charlie

'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
Re: 1950 passenger door gap
Rick Brown #1397783 Thu Feb 18 2021 01:53 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,087
P
AD Addict
Did you do any other panel replacement in that area that may have moved the hinge mounts?


Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery

‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
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