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1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
#1396450 Mon Feb 08 2021 11:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,009
Socket Breaker
1965 Chevy C10

round knob, thrift air heater.

pull knob with settings as you turn right: off, low, med, high

A few months ago I had an electrical melt down in the engine compartment and behind the dash. I replaced harnesses, fixed burned up wires behind the instrument panel, put it all back together.

I'm still chasing down where all the little light bulbs go.

Now, the heater only works on high, and it blows strong as it ever did. If I turn it down to med or low, it goes off.

My first thought is maybe I knocked something loose or didn't plug something back in... but on the back of the heater switch, I don't feel any exposed plugs, seems like everything is plugged in.

Maybe the switch went kaput after all this time? I dunno.

Is it possible to run it only on high because something is unplugged?

I've been flipping through my shop manuals trying to find out what wires go to the heater switch, but haven't seen it yet in the wiring diagram, or I'm just missing it.

Thought I'd ask you guys.

Thanks.

-Woog

Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1396512 Tue Feb 09 2021 01:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,296
G
'Bolter
You have a bad blower motor resistor.

Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1396851 Thu Feb 11 2021 11:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,009
Socket Breaker
thanks for the reply glenn.

-Woog

Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1396874 Fri Feb 12 2021 01:59 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,296
G
'Bolter
No problem thumbs_up

Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1396923 Fri Feb 12 2021 11:52 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,597
'Bolter
What does that mean specifically? Is that in the switch or in the motor and can it be replaced? I have encountered similar issue but able to wiggle and reboot (with boot) to get things back on track, (but this may be a different problem).


HB

1966 Chevrolet K-10
Flappy Fenders
In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures on Photobucket [s160.photobucket.com]

1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1396953 Fri Feb 12 2021 04:55 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,034
5
'Bolter


Brian
1955.2 3100 Truck


The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!!
Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1397016 Fri Feb 12 2021 11:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,296
G
'Bolter
Looks like 55Shaker hit da nail on da head. Its not either da switch or motor. Its somewhere in between. Usually mounted in metal part of ductwork. Usually somewhat easily accessible, because of failure possibilities. Usually inside of the veh. But ive seen em under da hood also.

Last edited by glenns towing; Sat Feb 13 2021 12:03 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention
Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Hambone #1397020 Sat Feb 13 2021 12:09 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,296
G
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Hambone
What does that mean specifically? Is that in the switch or in the motor and can it be replaced? I have encountered similar issue but able to wiggle and reboot (with boot) to get things back on track, (but this may be a different problem).

Might be da same problem really. Da "boot" probly got da springy things to make contact and appease the boot wearer. nono

Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1397067 Sat Feb 13 2021 12:24 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,597
'Bolter
got it. Thanks again. Learning some more.


HB

1966 Chevrolet K-10
Flappy Fenders
In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures on Photobucket [s160.photobucket.com]

1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Re: 1965 Chevy C10 - round knob, thrift heater only works on high
Woogeroo #1397973 Fri Feb 19 2021 07:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 113
X
'Bolter
Reach up behind the blower box near the firewall on the passenger side in the cab and you will feel a 3 prong connector mounted on the back of the box for the resister assembly. Pull the wire connector socket forward and it will come off the prongs of the resister. It is the connector to the switch on one end and the resister on the other. If you have trouble finding it, just follow by feel the wires on the dash switch toward the passenger side. It is held in place by 2 screws which you can remove with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. I dont clearly remenber what size socket, but I think it's a 5/16. Before replacing the old resister use a grounded test light to check for power at spade sockets in the connector. You should have power at only 1 wire at a time depending what position the knob is in. If you don't have power at all switch positions the switch is probably at fault. You can also use an ohm meter to check continuity between the ends of the connector loom by disconnecting both ends and using the "sound tone" feature on your multimeter.

Last edited by Xena; Fri Feb 19 2021 07:20 PM.


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