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#1392273 Mon Jan 11 2021 09:36 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 919
B
Shop Shark
I finally have this engine installed and assembled. I plan on starting it for the 1st time this Saturday. I still have to change/modify my manual choke cable to work with my dual carbs. They are new Daytona universal carbs with an adjustable main jet. They look a lot like the old Stromberg bvox carbs.. [img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...name/1610400750601738484940648665665.jpg[/img]
The cable to my original Rochester is still in the truck, with the old mounting clip attached. Before I get into it, any advice, pics, etc, are appreciated as usual. What do you guys do to start a new engine?

Last edited by bigmacdaddy; Mon Jan 11 2021 09:39 PM.

My Webshot Photos [community.webshots.com]
62 Fleetside 4spd 235 w/O.D. posi 3:90
90 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD 2.2 5sp
13 Ram Tradesman C/V
http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/madia_matt_1962.html
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,522
E
'Bolter
Sure looks nice!

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,389
G
'Bolter
Way nice in fact. Almost crisp, i guess thats what id call it. pix

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,661
AD Addict
To me the most important thing to do is prime the oil system. Remove the distributor and use a long cutoff screwdriver chucked in a drill and spin it clockwise and continue until you have oil dripping from the #1 and #6 rockers.

Also don’t use starting fluid as it will wash the oil from the cylinders. If needed, use gas instead.

I’m sure others will chime in to help you get that beauty started. Good Luck!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop & Interiors

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,163
D
'Bolter
Pull the distributor , prime the oil system , fit dist , start engine , run at fast idle to run the cam in (20mins) . Rejoice smile

Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 554
A
'Bolter
Prime the carbs aswell so you don't have to crank it too long waiting on fuel to get to them from the tank.


58' 3200 235 3-speed/OD

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,758
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
While you're priming the oil system, spin the crankshaft a little with the starter. It distributes that pressurized oil evenly all the way around the bearings. Did you use plenty of assembly lube on the camshaft and lifters? DO NOT idle the engine after the initial startup. As soon as you see oil pressure, bring the RPM up to 1500-2K for about 20 minutes for cam/lifter break-in. Stovebolts don't have enough valve seat pressure to need special low tension run-in springs like the small block round track engines I used to build with triple springs.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,142
D
'Bolter
Boy that looks terrific. May I ask what all you did to fit the caddy pistons and later rods?


Mike
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 919
B
Shop Shark
Dragsix. Man, it's been so long since I started this project. Tom Langdon is who supplied me with the right pistons and much of the knowledge. I can't remember what caddy they came from, but 289 comes to mind(fuzzy). The offset ground crank came from a guy out of Oregon who's name escapes me now. I got ahold of an engine builder through inliners.org who is not too far away. The engine was built 4 years ago and transfered into my truck. Since then, it's been in my garage waiting for me to get the carbs, fit the manifolds, do the linkage, oil lines and filter mount, etc...
Due to covid and lack of work, I've finally had time to get on this. I'm not complaining!
I'll post more info about the engine as I find it. I'm learning this all over again after so long...


My Webshot Photos [community.webshots.com]
62 Fleetside 4spd 235 w/O.D. posi 3:90
90 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD 2.2 5sp
13 Ram Tradesman C/V
http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/madia_matt_1962.html
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,758
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
I'm in the process of building a similar stroker engine that uses 292 connecting rods, but without the oddball grinding of the center of the rod journals. I made thrust washers for both sides of the 292 rods to match the width of the 235/261 crank journal, and TIG welded them to the rod caps, then reconditioned the rods to be sure any warp or out of round from the welding was corrected. I'm also using regular 235 or 261 pistons instead of the scarce and pricey Cadillac ones. I'm using bronze bushings in the small end of the 292 rod in the 235 engine, and Teflon thrust buttons to keep the original wrist pins centered. The 261 wrist pins will press fit into the 292 rod.

Attached Images
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DSCF2504.JPG (105.93 KB, 217 downloads)
DSCF2505.JPG (77.25 KB, 217 downloads)
DSCF2517.JPG (70.81 KB, 217 downloads)

"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
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