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#1388164 Sun Dec 13 2020 06:35 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 180
B
'Bolter
I joined Stovebolt earlier this year and have been cruising the various threads to get a lot of great information on various subjects. I finally decided to take the plunge and post up about my project. I acquired my truck back in September. I quickly discovered that the truck is a 1/2 ton (JP code) body on a 3/4 ton frame (hence the thread title). A previous owner had swapped the original motor and trans for a ca. '64 250-6 and Turbo 350 auto (operated by the original 3-speed column shift!). The rear axle was swapped for a GM 14-bolt (3.23 gears). This is a 'budget build' as funding allows, but since then I've done the following: removed the bed (an all aluminum copy made by a previous owner), cleaned and painted the frame behind the cab, rebuild the rear suspension, replaced the GM 14-bolt rear end with a Dana 60 (3.54 gears) that I got free, removed all of the front sheet metal, cleaned and painted the frame up to the cab, and rebuilt the front suspension.

I'm currently working on the front axle and brakes. I am replacing the original Huck drum brakes with Bendix. This is where I've made my first (of more to come, I'm sure) mistakes. I didn't do quite enough research before finding a '53 GMC pickup at a wrecking yard and purchasing it's front brakes. The truck was a 1/2 ton, so the drums are 11" diameter. I want to stay with the 8-lug hubs that were on my truck. After searching for new drums I quickly realized that I was at a dead end. I thought about going back to the yard and getting the whole front axle assembly, but then a friend pointed out that I'd have to carry two spare tires (one 6-lug and the other 8-lug)! Argh!! So now I'm on the hunt for the proper 12" dia. front brakes from another donor truck (the 1/2 ton brakes, with new shoes, are available for sale or trade).

Once the truck is back on four wheels, I will remove the cab, motor and transmission then complete all the frame work. I plan to rebuild the 250 and mate it to a SM 420 trans that I have. The transmission is a post-1954 model with the angled mounts, so I'll fabricate a new frame cross member. The later-design SM 420 means I should be able to ditch the two-piece drive shaft with a one-piece (which would lessen the horizontal angularity between the trans and rear end). I'd appreciate any input on that idea.

When it's all said and done, the truck will get a two-tone paint job of Union Oil blue and orange with appropriate "76" and "Minute Man" logos in remembrance of my grandfather who was the Northwest Territory manager in the 1950's.

Since my truck is a bit of a Frankestein, it's taken on the name "Pepper." Anyone who's kids watched the "Thumb" movies (Frankenthumb, Thumbtanic, Bat Thumb, etc.) would get the reference.

Best to all,

Brian

Attached Images
1951c.jpg (44.36 KB, 561 downloads)
Rear end_01.jpg (90.34 KB, 557 downloads)

Brian

'51 Chevy 3604 Project
'28 Chevy LO basket case
'83 GMC Sierra 4x4
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,592
AD Addict
You look like you have a great project going and its definitely a learning experience. In my case, ‘52 3100 with a ‘59 235, the more I look, the more screwed up things I find that PO’s (previous owner’s) did or had done. Allot of what I found was done was that “Git-Err-Dun” attitude.

With that all said, I still love working on the truck including the research necessary to find out how its supposed to be. This forum has provided me with much of the answers. Good luck with you restoration and keep posting with plenty of pictures!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
Phak1 #1388179 Sun Dec 13 2020 08:04 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 180
B
'Bolter
Phak1, thank you for your reply. I, too, really enjoy the research part of the project. One thing I'd love to do is find out where the truck was first sold (I know it was made in the Flint plant, but that's all). Have you ever researched your VIN? I've seen plenty of web sites that say they offer a "free" VIN look up service, but I have my doubts about them. Is there a legit method of getting the history of the vehicle?

Brian


Brian

'51 Chevy 3604 Project
'28 Chevy LO basket case
'83 GMC Sierra 4x4
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,592
AD Addict
I don’t think those “free” (nothing in this world is truly free) VIN lookup services are going to help at all. Our trucks are just too old. GM Heritage Center [gmheritagecenter.com], although is a really fascinating site, only goes back to 1977 on certain models for dealer invoices. I haven’t been able to trace my trucks history at all. I think if you contacted the seller, he may put you on to at least some of its history.

Good Luck!

Last edited by Phak1; Sun Dec 13 2020 09:10 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,592
AD Addict
Here is a link you’ll get a kick out!
[LINK] [gmheritagecenter.com]


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
Phak1 #1388209 Mon Dec 14 2020 12:51 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 180
B
'Bolter
Thanks for the link! I downloaded the brochure. Sure would love to get my hands on a real one some day. I miss going to swap meets!

Brian


Brian

'51 Chevy 3604 Project
'28 Chevy LO basket case
'83 GMC Sierra 4x4
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,592
AD Addict
Since I purchased my ‘52 3100 in February 2019, it hasn’t run or drove good enough to go to any events. I just finished (hopefully will be) my last major mechanical issue, so next year I’ll be ready to go to shows and swap meets.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 348
W
'Bolter
Mr. Wise what you have accomplished so far is very impressive to me. I have a 1965 C10 that I'm working on. I am way behind you, and not even close in mechanical capability, but I am kind of taking the same approach. That is, I want to address the undercarriage rust so my current plan is to remove the engine, front sheet metal and bed and attack the rust there. Do you plan to remove cab?

Also what did you paint frame with? Looks really good. I hope to have mine looking that way one day.

Thanks


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 180
B
'Bolter
Originally Posted by WarEagle1
Mr. Wise what you have accomplished so far is very impressive to me. I have a 1965 C10 that I'm working on. I am way behind you, and not even close in mechanical capability, but I am kind of taking the same approach. That is, I want to address the undercarriage rust so my current plan is to remove the engine, front sheet metal and bed and attack the rust there. Do you plan to remove cab?

Also what did you paint frame with? Looks really good. I hope to have mine looking that way one day.

Thanks

Thank you for the kind words. My motive for attacking the running gear first is so that I can keep it in some kind of rolling condition in case I need to move it out of its current location. Yes, I do plan to remove the cab. In fact as soon as I can put four wheels back on it, I'll roll it outside so I can lift the cab off, and remove the motor and transmission. Then I can finish cleaning and painting the frame.

My process for painting the frame isn't too exotic or expensive (I don't have the luxury of getting it sand blasted and powder coated). I clean the metal with various types of wire wheels, then wipe it down with a clean rag and denatured alcohol (because I have a couple gallons handy, and it dries fast). The metal is then given a coat of rust converter. I use a product called Coroseal, which is also a primer. I put it on with a paint brush, wait till it turns black, then wipe off the excess with a rag. After that has dried, I spray on a coat of automotive primer. Last is two coats of an inexpensive industrial enamel that I get at my local hardware store. The painted part of the frame you see in the photo was done with a brush. Not show quality, but it isn't meant to be. I've got plenty of work to do on the frame, including fabricating a new cross member to suppor the transmission, new dual-circuit master cylinder, brake lines, etc, etc.. When all of the fab work is done, I may prep and respray the whole thing.

Brian


Brian

'51 Chevy 3604 Project
'28 Chevy LO basket case
'83 GMC Sierra 4x4
Phak1 #1388378 Tue Dec 15 2020 01:25 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 180
B
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Phak1
Since I purchased my ‘52 3100 in February 2019, it hasn’t run or drove good enough to go to any events. I just finished (hopefully will be) my last major mechanical issue, so next year I’ll be ready to go to shows and swap meets.

I'm really looking forward to going to some swap meets next year. We have a couple of really good ones at our fairgrounds out here.

I just noticed that you (and other posters) have a Project Journal for your truck. I guess I should start one for my project instead of posting my updates and photos to this thread.

*Edit* And then I just noticed that this thread is in fact in the Project Journals forum, so whaddaya know.

Brian

Last edited by Brian Wise; Tue Dec 15 2020 01:29 AM. Reason: information change

Brian

'51 Chevy 3604 Project
'28 Chevy LO basket case
'83 GMC Sierra 4x4
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