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Exhaust/Intake manifold
#1384377 Fri Nov 13 2020 05:42 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 274
L
LeeD Offline OP
Shop Shark
I am about to remove my manifold for some minor repairs (I cannot get the heat riser valve to move, tried for a week with the spray then hammer technique with no luck) and I was wondering what I should do to it before reinstalling. I have seen some manifolds that were painted that looked pretty good, so I need to decide if I want to go that way or just clean it well and reinstall. I am not trying to win any show awards with it, just want it to look good and protect it from any rust or corrosion in the future. So the questions are what could I do, and what should I do?
Also, is there anything else that I should do/look at, while the manifold is off? I read one suggestion is to look at and if needed, repair the pivot for the carb linkage. Anything else?

Thanks, Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384382 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:12 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,771
J
Shop Shark
Hi Lee,
Others may appear with different answers, but I've never had much luck with any of the so-called manifold paints. They look ok for a while, but a rusty bucket if painted will look good for a while, too. You can paint the intake manifold part. As for the heat riser valve, I believe you'll have a much better chance of making it work once the manifold is off and you can see things better. Usually if you're patient you can get them to work again. As for the carb linkage pivot, please keep in mind the screw for it usually goes into the water jacket. At least on every 235 I've ever worked on it does. I can't think of much other than that. You'll have a bit more room to adjust your steering box with the manifold out of the way and if you need to replace the drain cock with a new one (at the rear of the engine) that will be easier. Good luck.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384383 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:15 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,771
J
Shop Shark
Oh, one other thing. When you get your heat riser valve (flapper) freed up, check to see if it needs to be straightened to fit right. I've seen a few that were bent oddly. About the only thing I could imagine was that somebody stuck something up there with the exhaust pipe removed (pipe, broomstick or something) and beat on it trying to free it.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384389 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 34
S
Wrench Fetcher
I just went thru the same process with a frozen heat riser valve. After removing the manifold I sprayed it with pb blaster inside and out ,let it sit then repeat for a couple days. Eventually with a pair of vise grips i got it to move and then reapplied more PB blaster. Bit by bit it freed up. Basically the manifold was all coked up with black exhaust crud and required scraping and careful chiseling to remove the carbon from the passage ways. Good luck. After cleanout I ordered the spring that operates the valve. Does anyone know if the spring requires presetting the tension by winding the spring up or if it is installed straihgt without preloading? thanks all....


1953 3100 Pu
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384390 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,673
D
Shop Shark
I took mine to a machine shop to have it decked. I had an exhaust leak.

Couple of places didn't want to mess with it, to small a job for their time.

Found a guy who charged me 50 bucks..

If you do something like that you might have to dress down your port rings

Attached Files
B9737F3C-A159-4BEF-9DD0-9771AF680D87.jpeg (183.84 KB, 254 downloads)
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384392 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:53 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 274
L
LeeD Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thanks Jon for the paint suggestions; I may just see how it looks cleaned up well and leave it at that. I saw a tip in here a few weeks ago (I think) about how to re-bush the pivot under the carb; does anyone remember where that was? If I remember right, you drilled it out enough to fit in a brass sleeve, but I do not remember the details.
My spring is still good, so if you don’t have an answer Swami for your question, I’ll see if I can find out.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384393 Fri Nov 13 2020 07:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,673
D
Shop Shark
The spring is in the heat on position .... cold

Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384394 Fri Nov 13 2020 08:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 274
L
LeeD Offline OP
Shop Shark
Dads50, I don’t think I have an exhaust leak, but I would not be surprised if there is something small. I do not have a sandblaster, so I may be taking it to a shop and hopefully they can check it carefully for cracks or other issues. When you say decked, is that to align the ports into the same plane and flatten the faces?

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384395 Fri Nov 13 2020 08:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,673
D
Shop Shark
Correct

Some the the skilled old-timers can do this by hand or draw file . Even a large belt sander. I chose the machine shop route since I know I had a leak
You can check yours with a long straight edge. If it looks good then you'll be ok. Not much torque used on manifold bolts so having a good surface to start out with helps.

Re: Exhaust/Intake manifold
LeeD #1384398 Fri Nov 13 2020 08:16 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,063
L
Shop Shark
Instead of paint, I’ve been pleased with manifold dressings that are made for cast iron. More can be applied with an old toothbrush at any time to touch up areas. I think it holds up pretty good.

Here’s a picture of my 230 manifolds. Intake has Calyx manifold dressing. It’s pretty expensive for what you get.
I ran out of Calyx so I decided to try Rutland Pot Belly Stove Polish on the exhaust. I like the contrast.

I also used the Rutland stove polish on the LS engine exhaust.

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8E966714-9625-4D5B-AC72-C42C87C66870.jpeg (269.86 KB, 258 downloads)
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