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1949 huck brakes
#1383691 Sat Nov 07 2020 12:22 AM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
Hi anyone have any idea what I’m missing on this rear drivers side wheel. I changed the cylinder and as you can see the brake pad pushes out and the end of the cylinder pops off. That left side feels loose and other than the hold down springs I see are missing I can’t see anything else missing. Any suggestions?

Attached Files
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383712 Sat Nov 07 2020 02:43 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 915
Shop Shark
Here's a pic of my RR. Are you sure the shoes are correctly adjusted? Once the shoes are adjusted as per the manual [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com] the hardware should stay in place. Some of the Huck brakes didn't use the hold down springs. My '47 uses them as you can see. Are there holes in the backing plate for the springs?

Attached Files
RR New.jpg (250.53 KB, 195 downloads)
Huck-Adjustment-Guide.jpg (46.83 KB, 185 downloads)

Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104 [flic.kr]
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred [flic.kr]

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383747 Sat Nov 07 2020 02:54 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,561
W
Shop Shark
Won't that happen if you apply the brake pedal w/o the drum to stop the shoe? Does that happen with the drum installed?


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet [sandeace.com]

28 Years of Daily Driving but now on hiatus. With a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383756 Sat Nov 07 2020 04:41 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,253
W
Master Gabster
Those are good suggestions. Also the e-brake cable may be too tight.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
[url=http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/capito%20george%201956.html]
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383757 Sat Nov 07 2020 04:53 PM
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 4,741
J
Unrepentant VW Lover
Use zip ties to hold the wheelcylinders together until you have everything installed. Otherwise you are trying to juggle one handed ...

Also, here's what one of my fronts looked like before I redid them. The one return spring at the top is all there is. Listen to George! smile

Attached Files
2013-07-20 18.47.28.jpg (198.63 KB, 149 downloads)
2010 08 25_0001.JPG (113.45 KB, 151 downloads)

John
"Paul! Klaatu barada nikto. KLAATU BARADA NIKTO!!!!"


'49 Chevrolet 3804

Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383772 Sat Nov 07 2020 07:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
Thank you all for the suggestions. Yes it happens with the drum on that’s how I discovered it the wheel seemed tight so I went to adjust the cylinder and saw it pushed out and when I tried to fix it it did the same thing. Great idea with the zip ties!! It is possible it’s something to do with the parking break I haven’t messed around with that yet

Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383861 Sun Nov 08 2020 03:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,599
H
Boltergeist
If the shoes can move far enough to let the adjuster get cocked, the brakes aren't adjusted properly. You need to seat the shoes firmly against the drum with the adjusters, and then back off only enough to allow the wheel to turn. If the drums are way oversize and/or the linings are badly worn, it might require using up most of the adjustment threads just to make that happen. Look at the wear on the left lining in John's photo, and how much of the adjustment thread is exposed. Huck brakes have a nasty habit of wearing out only one lining while the other one will look almost new. Back in the 1950's, Dad had to watch some of his mechanics closely to make sure they didn't do a one-shoe brake job and hide the other new one. After a few of those jobs, they had enough new shoes to do a brake job on their own car, or do a weekend job for somebody else without any parts cost.
Jerry


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Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383870 Sun Nov 08 2020 05:02 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 134
G
Shop Shark
The other thing to be aware of with Huck brakes, if you're not already, is that you have to adjust each brake shoe separately, unlike Bendix brakes. So you need to do both sides of each brake cylinder separately, ensuring both shoes are adjusted up close to where the drum drags. I didn't realize this at first with mine, and once I did, my brakes worked significantly better.


Greg Brown
'49 Chevy 3100
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1383895 Sun Nov 08 2020 10:39 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,253
W
Master Gabster
You can see in #4 photo the adj. rod is not in the shoe. Your emerg. brake must be holding it back.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
[url=http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/capito%20george%201956.html]
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
Re: 1949 huck brakes
Kxt710 #1384101 Tue Nov 10 2020 09:06 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 64
T
Wrench Fetcher
I agree that it appears that the parking brake rod is not properly attached at the "front" end. I also move the eccentric to its minimum position when I have had everything apart. If necessary I adjust it later.

I also agree that the shoes need to be properly adjusted before you apply the brakes. Otherwise the piston travels too far and the adjusting cap comes off like you show.

Remember to disconnect the parking brake cables before you adjust the shoes at the caps on the ends of the cylinder.


Rusty
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