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Hi anyone have any idea what I’m missing on this rear drivers side wheel. I changed the cylinder and as you can see the brake pad pushes out and the end of the cylinder pops off. That left side feels loose and other than the hold down springs I see are missing I can’t see anything else missing. Any suggestions?
Here's a pic of my RR. Are you sure the shoes are correctly adjusted? Once the shoes are adjusted as per the manual [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com] the hardware should stay in place. Some of the Huck brakes didn't use the hold down springs. My '47 uses them as you can see. Are there holes in the backing plate for the springs?
28 Years of Daily Driving but now on hiatus. With a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Those are good suggestions. Also the e-brake cable may be too tight. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. [url=http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/capito%20george%201956.html] 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
Thank you all for the suggestions. Yes it happens with the drum on that’s how I discovered it the wheel seemed tight so I went to adjust the cylinder and saw it pushed out and when I tried to fix it it did the same thing. Great idea with the zip ties!! It is possible it’s something to do with the parking break I haven’t messed around with that yet
If the shoes can move far enough to let the adjuster get cocked, the brakes aren't adjusted properly. You need to seat the shoes firmly against the drum with the adjusters, and then back off only enough to allow the wheel to turn. If the drums are way oversize and/or the linings are badly worn, it might require using up most of the adjustment threads just to make that happen. Look at the wear on the left lining in John's photo, and how much of the adjustment thread is exposed. Huck brakes have a nasty habit of wearing out only one lining while the other one will look almost new. Back in the 1950's, Dad had to watch some of his mechanics closely to make sure they didn't do a one-shoe brake job and hide the other new one. After a few of those jobs, they had enough new shoes to do a brake job on their own car, or do a weekend job for somebody else without any parts cost. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
The other thing to be aware of with Huck brakes, if you're not already, is that you have to adjust each brake shoe separately, unlike Bendix brakes. So you need to do both sides of each brake cylinder separately, ensuring both shoes are adjusted up close to where the drum drags. I didn't realize this at first with mine, and once I did, my brakes worked significantly better.
You can see in #4 photo the adj. rod is not in the shoe. Your emerg. brake must be holding it back. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. [url=http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/capito%20george%201956.html] 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
I agree that it appears that the parking brake rod is not properly attached at the "front" end. I also move the eccentric to its minimum position when I have had everything apart. If necessary I adjust it later.
I also agree that the shoes need to be properly adjusted before you apply the brakes. Otherwise the piston travels too far and the adjusting cap comes off like you show.
Remember to disconnect the parking brake cables before you adjust the shoes at the caps on the ends of the cylinder.
