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#1378356 Thu Sep 24 2020 08:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,971
S
'Bolter
There is a good tech-tip about doing this. I tried to find the author in the member list without luck My questions were can I use the spacing block for the backing plate from the Huck system. Secondly do you have to do anything to the master cylinder.
Any answers will be appreciated.
Bill


"Sedgewick"
1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1989 Caprice

Sedgewick #1378361 Thu Sep 24 2020 08:48 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,456
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The tech tip says he used the Bendix spacer, but if the Huck spacers are the same thickness, you could drill out the mounting holes and use them. Not ever seeing Huck brakes, I'm guessing here.
Master cylinder should work as-is, assuming it's the same piston diameter.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Sedgewick #1378387 Fri Sep 25 2020 12:55 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,971
S
'Bolter
I think he had a full axle to pull parts from. All I have are the backing plates.


"Sedgewick"
1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1989 Caprice

Sedgewick #1378395 Fri Sep 25 2020 01:37 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,104
5
'Bolter
The problem with the swap is the difference in size of the holes in the steering arms. They are smaller on trucks with Huck brakes. The Bendix use larger diameter steering arm bolts, so there is a problem with the backing plates having holes which are too big for the Huck bolts.
This leaves you with two choices. Drill the holes larger in the Huck steering arms, or welding the holes in the Bendix backing plate to a small diameter.
I wasn't comfortable with drilling the Huck steering arms, so I welded plate steel to the backing plates on the wheel side and drilled the holes to fit the Huck steering arm bolts.
Hope this helps. You kind of have to "be there" to visualize it clearly.

Sedgewick #1378415 Fri Sep 25 2020 06:28 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,456
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I would think it would be easier to enlarge holes (a larger drill will self center in the existing holes) than to weld and drill smaller holes (getting them centered where they need to be), but either way would work. Spacer blocks were mentioned, but I haven't dug into my brakes yet to see where they are.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Sedgewick #1378416 Fri Sep 25 2020 06:56 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,163
D
'Bolter
It's only 1/16" bigger, I just drilled the holes , been near 20yrs now , daily use .

Sedgewick #1378432 Fri Sep 25 2020 02:22 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,566
ODSS President
Did the same as Dusty, easy conversion, used the same Huck single MC.


Cosmo

"...my good horse Rocinante ('49 Chevy Half Ton), mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes

"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra

"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer

Sedgewick #1378495 Sat Sep 26 2020 02:21 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,971
S
'Bolter
Sounds very doable. It is only a 1/16" difference in the steering arm holes. And I am happy to learn the original MC is good to use.
Thanks all.


"Sedgewick"
1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1989 Caprice


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