So, what do you plan to do about this. I guess a machine shop could build them up and then dress them to the original factory specs. It probably wouldn't be cheap. ray
I'm wondering if the axle shaft could be machined down a little, and a hardened repair sleeve pressed on, then ground to the proper diameter for the bearing to contact? I'm thinking of using air hardening tool steel, and shrink-fitting the sleeve into place. The process of heating the sleeve to expand it and shrinking it onto the turned-down axle shaft would also harden the sleeve as it cools. Then a tool post grinder on the lathe could be used to establish the final outside diameter. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
You guessed it! My most recent equipment purchase was a crankshaft grinder to go with the other toys like a few welders, two Brigheport mills, four lathes, a valve seat and guide machine, a bead blaster, a Sunnen connecting rod hone, a portable line bore machine, and a portable "in the block" crankshaft grinder. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
I'm wondering if the axle shaft could be machined down a little, and a hardened repair sleeve pressed on, then ground to the proper diameter for the bearing to contact? I'm thinking of using air hardening tool steel, and shrink-fitting the sleeve into place. The process of heating the sleeve to expand it and shrinking it onto the turned-down axle shaft would also harden the sleeve as it cools. Then a tool post grinder on the lathe could be used to establish the final outside diameter. Jerry
If the shaft was turned down to precisely the right diameter, a sleeve of the correct size could be installed, and probably dispense with the final grinding. There's probably enough tolerance in the axle bearing surface diameter from the factory to allow that.
Still going to be expensive though. There are probably still enough usable axles that can be had for a cheaper cost.
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
I used a "Speedy Sleeve" on my crankshaft where it goes through the timing gear cover. I had wondered about a Speedy Sleeve for the axles on my 53. It did not seem to be available. Having said that I thought I recently saw an ad or comment about using a Speedy Sleeve.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Speedi-sleeves are used for seal surfaces. I doubt very much if they would stand up to roller bearings running on them, because they're very thin. Might last for a year or two, but then you'd be back in the same situation, or worse.
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
The worn area would need to be machined smooth, and a repair sleeve fitted to bring the diameter back to slightly over the original specification, then ground and polished to a smooth enough surface for the bearing rollers to ride on. Remember that the bearing also supports the weight if the truck, so the metallurgy of both the axle and the bearing must be compatible. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
