Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Driveline Pulling rear axle to stop oil leak

1947 Chevy 3100
Gear oil is leaking out of the axle housing onto the right rear tire and then the floor. Probably need new seals. What would be the steps involved in correcting this issue? Would the 10 bolt differential cover need to be removed? In summary, can someone walk me through this procedure? Thanks, Ray Durham

Check "chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com" They have a copy of the shop manual that gives instruction. The differential cover will need to be removed. Not difficult to accomplish.

Thanks for the advice. I also thought about searching on YouTube and found some good videos there. ray

Once the axle is out, inspect it for wear. Since the bearing rollers ride right on the axle shaft, it's not uncommon for them to wear a groove in the axle and make it impossible for the seal to keep up with the axle bouncing up and down. Some parts vendors used to sell a bearing with an offset in it so the rollers run on an unworn part of the axle shaft. I'm not sure if that type of bearing is available for the old stovebolt axles or not.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

I removed my axles a few weeks ago and found exactly what Jerry was talking about. I’ve looked for the last few weeks and could not find the “Axle Saver” one piece bearing and seal. They make them for newer chevy trucks but I had no luck in finding them for the old AD trucks. Hopefully yours are good!

Reply to Phak1

So, what do you plan to do about this. I guess a machine shop could build them up and then dress them to the original factory specs. It probably wouldn't be cheap. ray

To Phak1

I had another thought. Any chance an axle saver bearing for the newer chevy trucks would fit our old trucks? ray

Jerry

There is discussion in the shop manual for a 1947 chevy 3100 about having a maximum distance of .014 inches between the ends of the axle shafts in the differential housing. It goes on to discuss three different sizes of spacers: 1.1485, 1.1575 and 1.1675. I doubt these are still available and I was wondering if you knew of a substitute. ray

It would be a very simple project for a machinist to fabricate one of those spacers from a block of steel and size it to whatever axle end play was needed. I'd probably choose to case harden the surface of the metal with something like "kasenit" before grinding the thrust surfaces to the final dimensions. Case hardening produces a hard surface about 1/16" deep on a piece of soft steel. That would be ideal for a part subject to surface wear that is still required to remain "tough but flexible" on the inside. Tool steel could be used for a project like that, but it would be a little too brittle if it was hardened all the way through.
Jerry