Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Bed Kit Help for 53 3100

They are good thank you although I had to read it a few times to get it completely. Figure 2 shows just 2 sills so I presume those are the last two at the rear of the bed. The front one would mount the same way but with the longest bolts.
On my 49 I am missing the pads under the wood blocks at the next to last sill at the rear. The blocks I have in that spot are 2.25 inches.
Question are all your blocks 2.25 inches which would mean I need a pad under mine.

Olblu49:
The blocks are 2 1/8". The pads are 1/4" thick. As you can see from the diagram, the last cross sill (rear cross sill) does not have blocks because the brackets act as a spacer, but you still need the pads in this location.
Hope this helps.

Thank you. It all helps. On my truck the 'middle' set of blocks do not have the pads. The blocks are about 2.25 inches. As you may have read from previous posts that I am chasing an elusive thump/clunk under the truck and had thought of it coming from the bed. Even without the pad and with the bolts snugged up I do not think it would cause the noise. It may squeak but not thump. I could be wrong of course.

Something to think about. It is important that the six or eight mounting points all carry their share of the bed. If your frame is perfect and never tweaked, the combined height of cross sill, block and pad should be the same at every mounting point and they should equal the height of the rear sill mounting bracket and pads as well. Leave out a pad at two spots, and those blocks need to be taller to compensate. If the frame is bent slightly, the height of the blocks will need to be adjusted or shims added.

As for the elusive thunk, check your cross sill that is second from the front. It is not attached to the frame but hangs very close to the frame on some trucks. It can contact the frame when you hit a bump.

Mar-Ktech

Thanks again. That second sill is one of my considerations although I do not believe from the last time I was under there that it was too close. However it warrants a look. I will remove it temporarily and see what happens.
Another spot is where the regular bed bolts go thru the steel strips and at one point on either side it is again very close to the frame kick-up over the rear axle. So close that I cannot put a washer and nut on the bolt as there is no room.
First thing tomorrow I am going to remove that 'floating' sill and let you know.
I am carrying a big spare tire and a tool box in the bed. The tool box is bolted down however - I reversed the bolts that go through the bed strips and put holes in the bottom of the tool box with the bolts coming up thru. The spare is just sitting there and I have removed it to check for the clunk but the tire is not guilty!

Just checked that cross sill and there is less than one-half inch of a gap. I cut some hard rubber as a temporary snubber between the frame and the sill to see if the clunk was there. Unfortunately even with the rubber snubber the elusive clunk persists.
My other guesses and they are not bed related are the front cab mounts or the e-brake cross shaft.

I'm resurrecting an old thread as I'm getting ready to install new bed wood and metal strips in the '47............


I also recently ordered and received the kit mentioned by tclederman. It seems to me that with this kit as delivered, the wooden blocks (2 5/16" thick) would go on the front and middle bed mounting points (no rubber pads) and the rubber pads (1/4" thick) would go on the rear bed mounting points. Apparently, this installation method incorrect.

However, according to Mar-K and others, the correct bed mounting hardware is as follows: the '47-'53 3100 requires four mounting blocks (2 1/8") and six rubber pads (1/4"), for a total height of 2 3/8". The four wooden blocks would go on the front and middle bed mounting points with rubber pads between the block and the frame. The two remaining rubber pads would go on the rear bed mounting points between the frame and the metal bed block.

Can someone confirm this for me? Any and all input will be accepted and appreciated, thanks!

Personally I would trust Mar-K instructions to be 100% correct. The amount of research they have put into their products is amazing.🛠

Thanks Martin!

I'll plan to trim the wooden blocks to 2 1/8" and make four more 1/4" rubber pads, as per Mar-K.

Andy, the important thing about the block height is as noted by Mar-Ktech above. It is the combined height of cross sill, bracket, block and pad that must match the height of the rear sill mounting bracket and pad. Not all vendors make their cross sills the same height so be sure to check yours, including the small cross sill bracket, before trimming your blocks. For that reason the block height is not a "one size fits all" situation.
Mark