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Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
#1377354 Wed Sep 16 2020 10:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
D
DP Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
It has the 2sp Eaton 1350 Rear. The brake shoe adjusters on the back of the backing plate just spin without moving the shoes. The parking brake is fully released. After prying, pulling, ect, the drum has only moved out an inch. The drum is real tight on the shoes probably from a lip on the inside of the drum, the drum will turn when all the way in, but not turn once pulled out an inch. I wired wheeled the hub so the hub is not holding up the drum, just the shoes are. I was thinking of drilling and tapping 2 or 3 holes in the drum around the circle of the wheel studs, like many modern rotors have, and push against the hub with bolts. What do think: Good idea? Bad idea? I don't want to damage stuff. Thanks.

Attached Files
20200915_48GMC_RRBrakeDrum.jpg (58.46 KB, 74 downloads)

1948 GMC 1.5 ton Dump Truck
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377362 Thu Sep 17 2020 12:04 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,763
3
3B Offline
Master Gabster
Hy DP, actually that is not a bad idea, but I would remove the axles, hub bearings and the bolts which hold the wheel cylinders in place and the pull the hub/drum assembly as one using a puller against the end of the axle tube, protect the end of the axle tube. Hope that helps, good luck.

Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377403 Thu Sep 17 2020 11:39 AM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
D
DP Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Pulling the hub/drum together sounds good, I'll try that. Why am I unbolting the wheel cylinder? I would have guessed the shoes should be staying on the backing plate.


1948 GMC 1.5 ton Dump Truck
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377418 Thu Sep 17 2020 02:20 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,995
H
Boltergeist
Unbolting the wheel cylinder(s) allows the shoes to move away from the backing plate, and you might be able to get a thin pry bar in there to collapse the shoes enough for the drum to slide off. In really extreme situations, it might also be necessary to cut the shoe hold-downs off from the outside of the backing plate so the whole shoe/wheel cylinder/drum assembly can be removed together.


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377421 Thu Sep 17 2020 02:35 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,763
3
3B Offline
Master Gabster
Hy DP, I suggested unbolting the wheel cylinder bolts so that the wheel cylinders could move as you pulled the drum/hub assembly and possibly twist and release some of the tension on the brake shoes. If you were to take a punch and drive the wheel cylinders into the drum you may be able to dislodge them from the brake shoes and lower the brake shoe to drum tension, hope that helps.

Last edited by 3B; Fri Sep 18 2020 01:56 PM. Reason: Correct spleling errors
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377444 Thu Sep 17 2020 07:42 PM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
D
DP Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Got it. Thanks to all. I will give it a shot and post results.


1948 GMC 1.5 ton Dump Truck
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377770 Sun Sep 20 2020 05:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
D
DP Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
The drum is off. No damage done. Looks like spiders have been busy in there for the last 25 years. I did as suggested, removed the axle and outer bearing, which helped but was not enough by itself. Then unbolted the wheel cylinder and the shoes could move around enough for me to pry the drum off. I think using a puller would have been easier but I did not have the right one, will buy for for the other side. Thanks for all the help!

Are the new wheel cylinders ok? Rockauto has Dorman W3677, Or should I rebuild the old ones?

Attached Files
DSC00088.JPG (89.07 KB, 22 downloads)

1948 GMC 1.5 ton Dump Truck
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377784 Sun Sep 20 2020 07:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,995
H
Boltergeist
If new cylinders aren't outrageously expensive, I'd recommend buying them, and hanging onto your old ones just to have "rebuildable cores" on hand. Even a badly rust-pitted wheel cylinder can be repaired with a stainless steel sleeve that makes it better than new, but that's a pretty pricey fix. Parts for Huck brakes like yours are getting very hard to find, especially for the big rigs. Be sure to confirm the casting numbers with Rock Auto before ordering- - - -it's possible they've got parts for a 1/2 ton listed instead of the bigger size cylinders.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Pulling rear brake drum on 48 GMC 1.5 ton
DP #1377796 Sun Sep 20 2020 09:15 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,988
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
I did the stainless re-sleeve on our M5-H-6, all 6 wheel cylinders. I don't remember it being too costly.


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