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Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1370473 Fri Jul 24 2020 11:54 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
7/23/20: Today I removed the engine from my truck, to diagnose a low oil pressure issue. It went quite well with the exception of the actual removal of the engine.

I started by draining the transmission and removing the floor cover to gain access from above. Listening to fellow Stovebolters, I super cleaned the drive shaft housing where the bell collar slides and it slid back perfectly with little effort. I borrowed a friends engine lift and used it to lower the transmission to a tire dolly, a trick I also learned by reading prior post on this forum. The engine lift also made easy work of removing the hood.

Next was the dreaded exhaust. As images of using OA torches and broken studs danced in my head, they broke freely with no issues. After removing all of electrical connections, linkage, gauge lines and the motor mounts the engine was ready to be removed. I fabricated a plate to bolt on where the coil mounts to act as one lift point and used a chain around the front of the intake manifold for the other as suggested again on this forum.

That’s when Murphy’s Law came into effect. My first attempt at removing the engine, the front mount got hung up. Having never removed this engine, it felt like it was still bolted in place and I thought I may have missed a bolt. The back came up but the front didn’t move. Relooking at the mount, I assured myself that it just needed a little more persuasion. I rocked the engine a bit more aggressively and it finally broke free. Thinking I was on the home stretch, the lift stopped lifting while needing only six more inches. Now I’m stuck halfway in and halfway out. I previously tested the lift, by pumping it up to the my nine foot ceiling and successfully lifted my hood off. I surmised that it needed more pump oil due to the additional weight. Looking for the fill plug, all I found was a rubber plug about a third of the way up. I pulled the plug, added fluid until it ran out, replugged the hole and proceeded to pump the engine up. Yea! It works. Disaster averted! I proceeded cautiously and got the motor high enough to clear the radiator support. I didn’t have enough room in front to clear the truck so I had to back the truck up which I had previously planned on doing. My plan was/is to store the truck outside while I work on the engine, parked under a temporary canopy. This will enable me to to clean the engine bay outside so it won’t make a mess inside my garage. Backing out was easy as my garage floor has a pitch for drainage purposes. Now Murphy wasn’t done with me as when I was lowering it down, pump oil started spraying out of the fill hole thru the rubber plug, squirting about six feet all over the floor. I suppose I may have overfilled it. What a mess! I did land it on some blocking and spent the rest of the day cleaning up and putting away my tools.

Please note that the rope was not used to support the engine. After putting a sufficient amount of strain on the chains I used, I got an uneasy feeling that disaster might occur and added the rope as a fail safe measure.

I started this project about 10:30 this morning and the engine and tranny was out by 3:30. Unfortunately my grandson was not available to help so I did this solo. Not to shabby for an old geezer!

Attached Files
20CAFAEE-C804-4730-B128-7ACAF4CE4B3C.jpeg (290.11 KB, 297 downloads)
DF5984BD-FCEE-419B-BDA5-31FA90AD3D7B.jpeg (262.74 KB, 295 downloads)
845174AC-6D8C-48DF-BBCF-9B3B0B0D6FF2.jpeg (304.02 KB, 284 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Fri Jul 24 2020 01:42 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1370476 Fri Jul 24 2020 12:50 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 799
T
Shop Shark
Don't you love it when a plan comes together. I hope you don't find anything catastrophic once you open it up. Man I love the look of your wheels and cap with that paint color, gets me thinking about painting my Ralley wheels..


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1370996 Tue Jul 28 2020 01:24 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
7/27/20: I started disassembling the engine and here is what I found under the main bearing caps.

First a little history: I was able to locate and contact the PO that had the engine rebuilt six years ago. He was more than happy to talk to me about the truck and told me some history about the engine rebuild. After the original rebuilt, he had a main bearing ceased up due to a bearing being too tight and the machine shop remedied it by adding .001” shims to all the main bearing caps. He had also experienced low oil pressure issue after the rebuild.

The first shim under the rear main is not .001” thick, but .009”. I had planned to Plastigauge all of the bearings and ordered a set on line last year. That’s when Murphy’s law came into effect. I went to use them and there wasn’t any plastic line in the package. Neither the green (.001”-.003”) or the red (.002”-.006”) that I ordered contained any gauge. I figured I could go to the “not so local” NAPA dealer 20 minutes away and buy what I needed. The only gauge they had was .001”-.003” so I settled for that.

I Plastigauged the rear main bearing and it is larger that the .003” the gauge is limited too. It just started to squeeze out but not measurable on the scale. I needed the red package. I stopped right there as I don’t think Plastigauge is going to tell me the story.

I was anticipating having to pull out a small shim, but when I encountered the .009” shim, that has me really perplexed. It would seem to me if they needed a little more clearance, why would they put a .009” shim in? At this point, I’m going to pull the crank and get proper mic readings. That way it will tell me what the real story is.

Attached Files
B6BD1B7D-6A54-45CB-9F1E-D0502A861D61.jpeg (289.37 KB, 248 downloads)
A4F2EF22-61C2-4C9B-BF79-22D76272D013.jpeg (204.89 KB, 240 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Tue Jul 28 2020 01:26 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1371292 Thu Jul 30 2020 12:31 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 799
T
Shop Shark
Sounds like some machine shop magic, Not Good. I would thing that undersized bearing are still available for that engine. Glad you were able to discuss this with the PO, answered a few of your questions about low oil pressure. I think your going to be fine once you correct the bearing issue.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1371311 Thu Jul 30 2020 01:35 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
7/29/20: Yesterday, with the help of some knowledgeable Stovebolt experts, I was finally able to disassemble the engine and pull the crankshaft. What I found was not unexpected. The crank was already reground .030” under and the rear main bearing was ground to .027” under standard, which is .003” shy of what it should have been. We found the smoking gun.

Jerry suggested either find a shop that could handle regrinding the main journal the .003” it needs or find a another crank to regrind. If It could be reground, I would still need to address the rear main seal area.

I had a couple of Automotive Machine Shops in my area, recommended by some fellow “Bolters”, so I’m going to give them a call and see whether its possible.

Last edited by Phak1; Thu Jul 30 2020 01:38 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1372114 Tue Aug 04 2020 10:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
8/04/20: After finding one cam bearing that has .005”-006” clearance, I’ve decided to take the entire block to a machine shop to hopefully straighten out my low oil pressure issue once and for all. They are going to check out all of the clearances then give me a call with their findings. They said if the other journals check out, they could grind the one oversized crank journal and go back with 30 over bearings.

I dropped it off early today trying to beat hurricane “Isaias”, so while its at the shop I’ll be cleaning the rest of the engine parts for reassembly and clean/prep the engine bay for painting. Once the engine is reassembled, I’ll be giving the engine a new paint job. My thoughts are I want to get rid of the “Chevy Orange” and go with the original gray paint from 1952.

I will also be replacing the leaky rear seals and brake shoes on the rear end.

Last on the list is a noise I have when I release the clutch. I originally thought that the sloppy clutch fork pivot wasn’t pulling the clutch release bearing away from the clutch far enough to disengage. After initial inspection of the transmission, I found that the pilot shaft is worn where it enters the pilot bushing. I need to measure to confirm this but the crank is at the shop. I suppose I’ll need to check the roller bearings too.

Last edited by Phak1; Tue Aug 04 2020 10:46 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1372408 Fri Aug 07 2020 11:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
8/06/20: Today I started cleaning up the engine parts and engine bay. The left hinge for the hood was real sloppy. I found that the rivets that hold the two flat bars that attach to the hood were loose. I removed it figuring I could tighten the rivets with a ball peen hammer. I started peening but it wasn’t tightening to the ID of the hole the rivet passes thru. Using my lathe, I made a tapered punch I used on my 20 ton press to expand the rivet. I finished it off with a hammer to get the flange of the rivet flush. The rivet tightened perfectly and now the two bars have no slop at all. A quick trip to the sand blaster and its all set for paint. The bolts I removed are not shoulder bolts contributing to the slop, so I’ll need to order new hardware. While the hinge was off, I removed the hood to cowl seal, cleaned and sanded the passenger side cowl area under the hood, then gave it a few of coats of satin black. I was able to save the clutch head screws and clips but the seal will need to be replaced as it came off in sections.

Attached Files
7D5AF70B-0E5C-4839-9A7A-54572C80DAD5.jpeg (200.03 KB, 167 downloads)
E06EEC46-9723-42AD-86B2-344D57B999F2.jpeg (255.45 KB, 169 downloads)
E5758886-C806-4B4E-B9BA-4404C5BBE93A.jpeg (358.55 KB, 167 downloads)
702117E0-3838-441A-BF26-132C006335E0.jpeg (163.18 KB, 163 downloads)

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1372410 Fri Aug 07 2020 11:53 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 799
T
Shop Shark
Nice work.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1374500 Sun Aug 23 2020 01:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
8/22/20: One of the items on my list while the engine is out was a noise that was coming from the clutch/transmission area. When I release the clutch fully and the transmission is in neutral, there is a noise that sounds like the the clutch throwout bearing was still engaged. When I was investigating the noise, I found that the clutch fork was loose on the pivot ball. When I removed the bell housing, the pivot was indeed worn needing replacement.

Unfortunately, that was not the end of my problem. I checked the transmission and found the both the input shaft and the output shaft have slop. Today I disassembled the transmission to diagnose the issues and found that the input shaft (sometimes referred to as the clutch shaft) ball bearing was bad. I believe that accounts for the noise I was hearing. I found that most of these parts are readily available. Unfortunately, I found that the rear bearing support bushing is severely worn. According the the shop manual, if this bushing is worn, You are suppose to replace the bearing support and bushing as a unit and I have not found where I could buy a replacement.

I removed the main shaft, synchronizer drum and first gear cluster and decided not to remove any of the other gears. They physically look great and have no noticeable slop. My plan is to get a rebuild kit, replace the input shaft bearing, the associated roller bearings, main shaft bearing and attempt to procure a replacement rear bearing support.

I suppose if all else fails, I could pick up bearing bronze, press in a bushing and cut it down to a finish size.

I spent the rest of the day cleaning the parts and getting the casing ready for a satin black paint job.

Attached Files
0575A794-1CEE-4A89-9DE1-33EEB42478AB.jpeg (244.41 KB, 114 downloads)
55CA6A12-C70C-4BA9-AB61-6A1B8B788BED.jpeg (279.72 KB, 115 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Sun Aug 23 2020 11:14 AM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1375302 Sat Aug 29 2020 11:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 844
P
Phak1 Offline OP
AD Addict
8/29/20:For the last week, I’ve been cleaning up and painting the engine bay, prepping for the return of the engine. To say it is a laborious task is a huge understatement. I didn’t plan for a show quality result, but instead wanted just to clean it up. My plan (for those that have not followed my “Project Journal”), is to do a frame, off once I get her 100% mechanically sound so at this stage, I wasn’t planning on doing any body work. In addition, one PO many many years ago installed an after market heater and butchered the firewall. The heater core is shot and the blower motor is 6 volt so I removed it. I’m undecided as to original heater or aftermarket heat/AC unit. I hammered out as much as I could, then pop riveted a few patches to close up the holes. Overall, I am happy with the job.

Attached Files
C5307F10-749B-4649-AC00-8F516FF4B510.jpeg (243.47 KB, 105 downloads)
41CFFA1B-861D-4AC7-856D-183514BFC5C6.jpeg (228.38 KB, 109 downloads)
2646B9A8-BC0D-4029-A117-52970716D12D.jpeg (181.72 KB, 107 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Mon Aug 31 2020 12:45 PM. Reason: Addition info

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
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