Received new circuit board for the instrument panel today. Tomorrow is get that on, double check some wiring, and hopefully turn the key for the first time in 3 months. If that works out as it should...fingers crossed, finish the floor and get the seat in. Apparently it is frowned upon sitting on a milk crate....
Got the break-in oil poured in this morning, gonna cycle it through the next few days as I finish getting everything else set up (carb/linkage, exhaust, run through and double check wiring, etc) before the first fire up of the rebuilt 292
My son’s 1968 C10 won’t see paint for a loooong time. It will likely be outside in the weather a lot too. Today I chipped out the 52 year old cab drip rail sealer with a wood chisel. Glad I did too! As I suspected, the old seam sealer was allowing water to cause rust. Thankfully there were no holes. I cleaned it up with a wire brush and applied POR15. I’ll let it cure for a few days and then add new seam sealer. See pics.
Good work Lugnutz. Haven’t ever heard of anyone doing that chore or talking about the need to inspect your roof seam to see if it needs attention. I learned something new today. Thanks!
The 1960-66 trucks have a drip rail that goes around the entire roof with only a small hole for drainage. Not only does the hole get plugged up, but it’s not even at the lowest section of the roof! I used the wood chisel and mallet on my 1965 too. My 1963 drip rail was cleaned out when I bought it. I sealed the 1963 drip rail with a 3M product that is paintable.
Installed a new turn signal switch today. My turn signals stopped working last Sunday and, after doing several checks, determined that the switch was faulty. Also, cleaned up some of the wiring under the dash.
It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
Drove the truck up on the new ramps I bought at the Fredericksburg swap meet last year intending to replace some heavy gauge wire that has been wrapped around one of the shifter pivot points since I’ve owned the truck. I was planning on replacing it with a shiny new hitch pin clip I bought, but turns out the PO put the wire there to act as a shim. The wire takes out most of the slop that’s in that joint, so I left it alone. My shifter problems are bad enough without me making ‘em worse!
While I was under the truck I replaced 9 old zerk fittings with the new stainless steel zerks I bought at Tractor Supply. Grabbed the grease gun and went to work greasing all the joints. All but one fitting took the grease. That one must be plugged up behind the zerk.
Two stainless bolts had worn through the original side rails in the bed, so I put some large stainless washers behind them and with my neighbor putting his thumb on their heads I tightened them back down. Spent another couple of hours tightening all the other bed bolts and wiping down the underside. Lots of oil dripping out of that old, loose 216 with 101K miles on it!
It was a good day spent working on the old truck. Cheaper than a therapist, and much more effective.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Did a little work with a couple of rattle cans (Rust-oleum metallic gold and ColorPlace white). The white is just terrible paint, I'm always happy with Rust-oleum stuff. My wife picked the colors/paint and it came out better than expected. I would do more but it's over 103 outside.
62' GMC Fleetside 3/4 ton 235 4-speed. Time makes fools of us all.
Rear wheel cylinders and brake lines on rear axle. I was wirering up a trailer hitch harness and noticed dampness at the bottom of l/r backing plate. So i got real close and tried to smell it to see what it was. I just put rear seals and bearings in 1000 miles ago, so was hoping it wasnt that. I couldn't really smell anything, then noticed a touch of wetness on the rim. Wiped it off, along with the paint....lolol....only fluid that'll do that is brakefluid. Bingo. We have a winner. Brakes never felt good anyhow. I guess i know why now. Both were only working on one side of the cylinder.