What does the dipping shop use to neutralize the top secret acid once it comes out of that bath? The biggest detractor I have heard on this process is that you never get all the "solution" out from between areas like pinch welds or folded flanges like the door skin. The issue shows up adjacent to these areas as the paint takes on a sheen look just like gasoline on a water puddle. This was caused by the residue mixing with paint & solvents..
The biggest benefit is just as you stated, all the rust is gone...
Pictures added... I attached pictures showing pieces that were acid dipped and also a couple of pieces that were sand blasted. I am happy with both. Sand blasting was used on parts that could take the abuse without any worries. All body panels, doors and big body pieces are to be acid dipped. WARNING: Acid dipping shows the ugly truth. If you have crappy metal it all shows. The pitting that was under the paint and hid what looked like good metal, well it was not good metal. The good part is now I can fix the bad stuff. The good metal was still good and now shows 60 years worth of dings and neglect. But I want to keep as much original metal as possible. The guy that did my sand blasting was really reasonable, probably a third of what acid dip would cost for same parts. Cam out great. Both blasting and dipping will require a good work over with maroon scotch brite pads, hammer out some major dents and then a coat of primer to keep it safe over the winter. Photos; Cross member and frame, sand blasted fender acid dipped. Close-up to show extreme pitting More photos of acid dipped parts on next reply
A few more acid dip photos. These pieces have so many areas that are too hard to properly sand clean and questionable whether they would survive sand blasting. Completely happy even though the battery box is severely pitted. New ones are cheap but I think I will repair this one. Not even sure it is original equipment???? You can see the hood cowl is just perfect as it was not rusted.
The cab has been back for awhile, first piece I did. Unfortunately I got the cart before the horse and it is sitting wrapped in plastic. I will post some pictures soon to show what a lot of bad metal looks like.... DUH.... I changed plans from doing body parts first to getting the chassis rebuilt from the ground up. Any part that had a bushing or moving parts is to be rebuilt and painted before I do metal body parts. The rear end (HO52) has been completely disassembled. Gears were fine but replaced all the bearings in the pumkin at great expense. All wheel bearings, control arms, ball joints and such are being replaced as well. This truck probably had 200,000 miles on it and then sat for 20 plus years in a wet environment. The point of my restoration is to have a great driving stock truck. Do not buy a 1960 3/4 ton Apache if you are looking for a quick and cheap rebuild. Parts are scarce, expensive as all get up and takes weeks to find a lot of this stuff. So, the chassis should be back from powder coating next week. I hope to have all the pieces for the suspension and steering rebuilt and painted in the next two weeks and then a week to reassemble. The rear end and brake parts should be done in a week or two as well. The engine, well it is out for rebuild with date to be determined. Have not started on the tranny yet.
Cab pictures, lots a rust.... Pictures tell the story. I could put 30 pictures up to show all the rust through and rotted floor. Everybody needs a hobby, right???? There is rust in all the usual places. It caught me by surprise because most of it was hidden by paint or in those places you cannot see. Standard rookie optimism. Still, I am going to repair as much as possible instead of buying new while panels and fenders, etc.