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Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374150 Thu Aug 20 2020 02:29 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
Shop Shark
What does the dipping shop use to neutralize the top secret acid once it comes out of that bath? The biggest detractor I have heard on this process is that you never get all the "solution" out from between areas like pinch welds or folded flanges like the door skin. The issue shows up adjacent to these areas as the paint takes on a sheen look just like gasoline on a water puddle. This was caused by the residue mixing with paint & solvents..

The biggest benefit is just as you stated, all the rust is gone...

Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374221 Fri Aug 21 2020 01:59 AM
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 101
6
Shop Shark
Pictures added... I attached pictures showing pieces that were acid dipped and also a couple of pieces that were sand blasted. I am happy with both. Sand blasting was used on parts that could take the abuse without any worries. All body panels, doors and big body pieces are to be acid dipped.
WARNING: Acid dipping shows the ugly truth. If you have crappy metal it all shows. The pitting that was under the paint and hid what looked like good metal, well it was not good metal. The good part is now I can fix the bad stuff. The good metal was still good and now shows 60 years worth of dings and neglect. But I want to keep as much original metal as possible.
The guy that did my sand blasting was really reasonable, probably a third of what acid dip would cost for same parts. Cam out great.
Both blasting and dipping will require a good work over with maroon scotch brite pads, hammer out some major dents and then a coat of primer to keep it safe over the winter.
Photos; Cross member and frame, sand blasted
fender acid dipped. Close-up to show extreme pitting
More photos of acid dipped parts on next reply

Attached Files
DSC_1474S.jpg (190.37 KB, 91 downloads)
DSC_1464S.jpg (429.14 KB, 96 downloads)
DSC_1478S.jpg (362.83 KB, 95 downloads)
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Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374224 Fri Aug 21 2020 02:03 AM
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 101
6
Shop Shark
A few more acid dip photos. These pieces have so many areas that are too hard to properly sand clean and questionable whether they would survive sand blasting. Completely happy even though the battery box is severely pitted. New ones are cheap but I think I will repair this one. Not even sure it is original equipment???? You can see the hood cowl is just perfect as it was not rusted.

Attached Files
DSC_1483S.jpg (496.22 KB, 85 downloads)
DSC_1484S.jpg (357.13 KB, 87 downloads)
DSC_1485S.jpg (360 KB, 85 downloads)
Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374227 Fri Aug 21 2020 02:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,662
S
Shop Shark
Good pics, actually your sheet metal looks really nice. Did you get the cab back yet? How does that look?
Great start to a nice truck. Enjoy the process, it will be really fun.
Steve


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bli...n05i04t1aokgm4p04jiwgffwhyyih5xbk0h00410
1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374272 Fri Aug 21 2020 02:07 PM
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 101
6
Shop Shark
The cab has been back for awhile, first piece I did. Unfortunately I got the cart before the horse and it is sitting wrapped in plastic. I will post some pictures soon to show what a lot of bad metal looks like....
DUH.... I changed plans from doing body parts first to getting the chassis rebuilt from the ground up. Any part that had a bushing or moving parts is to be rebuilt and painted before I do metal body parts. The rear end (HO52) has been completely disassembled. Gears were fine but replaced all the bearings in the pumkin at great expense. All wheel bearings, control arms, ball joints and such are being replaced as well. This truck probably had 200,000 miles on it and then sat for 20 plus years in a wet environment. The point of my restoration is to have a great driving stock truck. Do not buy a 1960 3/4 ton Apache if you are looking for a quick and cheap rebuild. Parts are scarce, expensive as all get up and takes weeks to find a lot of this stuff.
So, the chassis should be back from powder coating next week. I hope to have all the pieces for the suspension and steering rebuilt and painted in the next two weeks and then a week to reassemble. The rear end and brake parts should be done in a week or two as well. The engine, well it is out for rebuild with date to be determined. Have not started on the tranny yet.

Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374360 Sat Aug 22 2020 01:04 AM
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 101
6
Shop Shark
Cab pictures, lots a rust.... Pictures tell the story. I could put 30 pictures up to show all the rust through and rotted floor. Everybody needs a hobby, right???? There is rust in all the usual places. It caught me by surprise because most of it was hidden by paint or in those places you cannot see. Standard rookie optimism. Still, I am going to repair as much as possible instead of buying new while panels and fenders, etc.

Attached Files
DSC_1356 S.jpg (244.37 KB, 66 downloads)
DSC_1357S.jpg (441.05 KB, 65 downloads)
DSC_1358s.jpg (257.41 KB, 63 downloads)
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DSC_1370S.jpg (286.13 KB, 63 downloads)
Re: after dipping, then what, advice wanted
60ApacheC20 #1374381 Sat Aug 22 2020 10:37 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,472
Shop Shark
You are learning some good lessons. That rust is always there if you care enough to look for it. Also good message on 60-62 suspension parts.


HB

1966 Chevrolet K-10
Flappy Fenders
In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures on Photobucket [s160.photobucket.com]

1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
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