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#1369511 Fri Jul 17 2020 06:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 19
T
New Guy
'57 Chevy 3200, I have replaced the drum breaks with disc on the front, and have everything mounted up and connected - time to bleed the brakes.

On the front drums (the ones I've removed), there is a bleeder valve nipple exactly like I expected to see. On the rear drums, there is a 2 part bolt in place of where I would expect to see the bleeder valve. What's going on here? Should I pull the valves off the removed front drums and install them in the rear? I feel like I'm missing something obvious, but I can't seem to find an answer as to why there is a bolt in place of where I expected to see bleed valve.

Apologies if this is a stupid question, and thank you in advance for any assistance.

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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,566
ODSS President
I think I would be reluctant to drive that truck on farm fields...Did you pull the rear drums and refurbish the rear drums with all new hardware? A system is only as strong as it's weakest point, that you do know.

To me it looks like a guy snapped off the bleeder valve and did a quick bolt-in job, BUT, I am here before more learned minds.

Good luck


Cosmo

"...my good horse Rocinante ('49 Chevy Half Ton), mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes

"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra

"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer

Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 19
T
New Guy
Thanks - haven't pulled apart the rear drums yet, trying to take the referb in stages - but your point is well taken, and I plan on rebuilding them once I have everything else I have dismantled back together.

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 936
L
'Bolter
I am not certain from your picture but that looks like what I have for bleeder valves on my Diamond T with Lockheed brakes (see picture). The top bolt is there just to seal the bore of the hollow bleeder valve. Just below the hex head of the top bolt is the hex of the valve itself. Remove the top bolt and turn the hex counter clockwise to open the valve like an ordinary bleeder valve.

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1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 19
T
New Guy
Sweet - thanks LD, that's the info I was looking for. I've not seen a valve like that before.

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,498
E
'Bolter
While you are at it, if you can get new cylinders, use them, the labor to upgrade the old ones is hardly worth it.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,566
ODSS President
All great advice, new to me LD. Ed, you are so right.


Cosmo

"...my good horse Rocinante ('49 Chevy Half Ton), mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes

"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra

"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer


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