Has anyone used a Hurst-style cradle front engine mount to put a SBC in an Advance Design truck? Lots of discussions about lots of options for this swap, but I have not read of this mount being used in an A D truck. I know it’s somewhat popular in Model A and other brand hot rods. Thanks.
I have that in my Task Force school bus, but I have it with a 454. I am going to be changing over to the side motor mounts here in the next month or so. I'm adding power steering to my bus and need the space for the pump.
This style mount was used in some of the bigger trucks and also in the 1956-60 Corvette sandwiched between the water pump and block. As stated, it is in the way of other accessories like p/s or a/c.
According to the dimensions given on Speedway’s listing for this item, the overall length is 21 5/8”. According to the frame drawing in the 48-51 Truck Shop Manual the outside width of the frame at the front is 25 1/2”, for 3100 and 3600 trucks. It is a little wider where the mount would go. That’s why I thought it might work.
If you use the original type rear mounts at the bellhousing, that mount should work well. Suspending an engine and transmission assembly with a front mount and one at the transmission tailshaft housing would put a great deal of stress on the bellhousing, especially if it's made of aluminum. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Deve hosts on his site [devestechnet.com] a scan of a February 1977 Street Rodder article by Pat Granahl V-8 Juice for Your Stovebolt [devestechnet.com]. In it he describes using a saddle or crossmember mount like this [speedwaymotors.com] which I guess has been used 1000s of times. He also details moving the steering box outboard the frame 1 1/2” and using 307 smog motor exhaust manifolds for clearance. That might be better than the front cradle mount.
Suspending an engine and transmission assembly with a front mount and one at the transmission tailshaft housing would put a great deal of stress on the bellhousing, especially if it's made of aluminum.
That is the prevailing wisdom, and it seems logical, but has anyone actually ever documented a healthy bellhousing or mounting bolts failing from front & rear engine/trans mounts? Excluding 600hp, 5000 rpm clutch drops, of course...
I ask because many times the front mounts would have been an easier solution for me, but I refrained for fear of bellhousing stress. And really, on an SBC the front mounts are only a few inches ahead of the side mounts...
Use a cast iron bellhousing, and you can probably get away with having no support in the bellhousing area. I wouldn't even consider it with one of the flimsy aluminum ones the later models with the 3-point mounts used. The first big bump you encounter might get exciting when the bellhousing breaks. The original Hurst-style mount also prevents the engine from running a mechanical fuel pump unless you cut a hole in the mount for fuel pump clearance, and even then, changing a pump becomes quite an adventure. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
