The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


EVENTS

Check in for status!

Jump over to the Events Forum, to post events -- new ones or the ones we have been enjoying for some time.
Look to see what's been cancelled or postponed.

Encourage one another!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
3 members (blueck, Mickey3100, tom moore), 152 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums50
Topics121,036
Posts970,299
Members43,817
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Cams for the Chevy 235
#1368096 Tue Jul 07 2020 12:54 PM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 3
6
New Guy
Hello! This is my first post here on Stovebolt. I don't have a truck, I have '41 Chevy coupe that I'm building but the motor will be a 235...and I have been hard pressed to find better forum-based info on these engines anywhere else!

I've read a lot of posts about different cams for the 235, and many say to avoid hydraulic lifters because of the poor quality of presently available parts. I've also read lots of recommendations for cams. Trouble is, nearly every post I land on is at least 10 years old, and the recommendations don't seem to be listed or available anymore.

So here's details about the engine, and then the question...

Engine - 1957 Chevy 235, passenger
Intended build - street engine, with bolt on upgrades (fenton split headers, would like to run an offy tripple 1 barrel manifold)
Looking for nostalgic look and sound, around town drive-ability, will get some highway use but not much.
I pan on ditching the hydraulic lifters (they are worn out) for mechanical. I don't mind mechanical and period adjustment at all, and the original 1941 engine would have been mechanical anyway.
This is not a go-fast build.

Questions

1) Good sources of solid lifters that will let me re-use the existing pushrods?
2) Who makes a decent solid-lifer cam, only present-day list I can find is from Elgin E-293-S
3) I've read about a 261 cam but I can't find a present-day source of an equivalent grind...minor improvement is fine, lumpy cams (for me) is not.
4) I've read a lot about "Patricks"...they don't seem to exist now. Website dead, lots of posts about them becoming unresponsive. I assume they are no longer in business. Langdons and Howards don't have present listings for these cams. Comp Cams only seems to offer higher-performance grinds and mostly for hydraulic at that.

So, no rocket science in this build, just need solid, reliable parts. Lots of older information out there, but it seems availability of these parts has really dried up since those posts were written. Looking forward to suggestions!

Matt


69chevy guy

2 x 1941 Chevy Coupes, 3 x Chevy stovebolts (2x 216, 1 x 235)
69 Impala
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368146 Tue Jul 07 2020 06:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,393
Red dot, center of chest ...
Your planned build sounds a lot like my engine. I have a 235 out of a '56 Belair, bored .30 over, with an Erson mild cam with hydraulic lifters, Fenton headers, and an Offy 2 1bbl carb setup. I got my cam from Patricks, but I understand that they are out of business now. You can still get cams for the 235. Speedway Motors [speedwaymotors.com] has them. eBay [ebay.com] has them. You can get a solid lifter cam from eBay [ebay.com]. You can also get them from Amazon [amazon.com].

Summit Racing has lifters, cams, and pushrods (you have to know the length and diameter) but doesn't sell a kit for the 235: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/lifters/make/chevrolet/engine-size/3-9l-235, https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/chevrolet/part-type/camshafts/engine-type/l6/engine-size/3-8l-235?N=part-type%3Acamshafts%2Bengine-type%3Al6, https://www.summitracing.com/search...p;sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending

Langdon's does have the camshaft: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/online-catalog/#!/~/search/keyword=camshaft and both hydraulic and solid lifters: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/online-catalog/#!/~/search/keyword=lifters, but they do not sell pushrods.

Before proceeding, you might want to read this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chevy-235-hydraulic-lifters-to-solids.416898/ You might also want to read this thread: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=809343. This is another thread you might find useful: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=33869

You won't be able to use hydraulic pushrods on solid lifters. You need to buy the entire setup: cam, lifters and pushrods.


Paul Schmehl CI 12
geek@stovebolt.com
Stovebolt Staff: Geek
1948 Chevy 3100 Five Window [stovebolt.com]
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368147 Tue Jul 07 2020 07:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,047
H
Boltergeist
One very interesting cam that I've discovered recently looks good on paper- - - - -the Melling CCS-1. It's a solid lifter shaft with a slightly more radical grind than the Elgin E-293, which is a clone of the Corvette/261 cam except for the lash adjustment figures. I bought one a couple of weeks ago, and it will be going into the prototype test engine I'm working on for dyno testing at the moment. On Ebay, it's also slightly less expensive than the Elgin cam.

Both styles of solid lifters are available on Ebay, and Comp Cams will custom make pushrods to any specifications you want, if regular stovebolt pushrods don't work for some reason. There are two different lengths of pushrods for the 54-62 235, depending on whether the tall "milk can" lifters are used, or the shorter, more conventional design is installed.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368148 Tue Jul 07 2020 07:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,393
Red dot, center of chest ...
There you go. Hotrod will steer you right. He knows his engines.


Paul Schmehl CI 12
geek@stovebolt.com
Stovebolt Staff: Geek
1948 Chevy 3100 Five Window [stovebolt.com]
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
baldeagle #1368152 Tue Jul 07 2020 08:04 PM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 3
6
New Guy
Hey guys, thanks for this. You see, this is what I'm talking about! This is why I joined...

Pushrods - it's my understanding that (at least in 1957) the pushrods are the same regardless if the lifters are hydraulic or solid, although I don't know about other years. The "Milk can" style lifters were gone by this point and the solids looked identical to the hydraulics, less the retaining clip above the cup. If I can get new solids that are exact replacements for those available that year, I'll be good with the pushrods. I realized after looking at them that in 1957, the pushrods didn't supply oil to the rockers...the pushrods were solid!

Paul, thanks for the tips on where to find things. I tend to shy away from eBay and Amazon (what's your recourse if theres an issue or you need tech help...typically none) and for others I found some references that may be ok but no specs on them. So your info is helpful to drill down.

Jerry thank you also I was wondering if the Elgin cam was more or less a 261 solid lifter cam. The Melling cam does sound interesting. Please keep us posted! I may spring for the Elgin unit in the meantime...I hear the "corvette grind" 261 cam is a perfect mix of added power without any lumpy idle which is ideal for what kind of use this will see.


69chevy guy

2 x 1941 Chevy Coupes, 3 x Chevy stovebolts (2x 216, 1 x 235)
69 Impala
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368153 Tue Jul 07 2020 08:59 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 810
D
Shop Shark
Ok, cam, Schneider Cams in San Diego is still in business and you get to call, talk to the boss (Jerry), tell him what you want and what you have, and he will grind you a cam. Clifford Performance (expensive), Isky and Howards all can get you a cam. There are other alternatives also. In fact, there are a handful of small cam grinders that can grind you a cam. I used Schneider for my last four cams and like the product and the fact that he will make up a grind to fit your needs.

Solid lifters for a 56 block, do not use the milk bottle style early lifters. They are for early 55 and prior motors, and some of the NOS milk bottle lifters are for a steel cam and not compatible with a cast cam. They will not work in the late 55 -62 blocks. You want to use the solid lifters from a 56-62 261 chevy truck motor. Same shape and design as the hydraulic lifters you currently have. You will also see solid lifters advertised for 55-62, same thing. NOS, RNOS or new manufacture, all good to use no problem. When I get home tonight I will try to post a photo of the two styles so you can see what we are talking about.

Push rods, don't mess around here. The after market push rods are tube style and way stronger then the stock push rods, and they are not all that expensive. A broken or bent push rod on the other hand runs the risk of doing a little damage. Order push rods for 56-62 235 chevy or 56-62 261 chevy, they are all the same length and style.

Hydraulic lifters, yes an issue. The new versions have a nasty little habit and reputation of collapsing within a short period. If you want a hydraulic cam and lifter, get real GM NOS lifters, or aftermarket lifters (Johnson, TRW, Sealed Power, Elgin) that are at least 25 years old and made in usa. There are two types of GM NOS Hydraulic lifters, 55-58, 59-62. Truth be told, I have never investigated the difference, I have always just used the correct lifter for the year of the block.

3X1, looks cool, tough sometimes to get sorted out for the street, especially if you are trying to run three Rochesters. I ran that set up for a time, still have the intake, could never get it to run great on the street unless I was buzzing the motor a bit. Consider a 2X1 with adapters (Langdon sells them) and run either a pair of 1974 Ford Pinto Holley/Weber progressive two bbls or a pair of the Carter/Webers that Tom Langdon sells. They will run way better on the street then two single bbl carbs or three single bbl carbs. If three carbs is what you are after, and you have room, then you should also consider three ford pinto carbs or the carter weber carbs. Again, progressive 2 bbls, like a quadrajet, small primary, larger secondary.

Fentons, they will work just fine. Clifford still sells real tube headers. Do a YouTube search for clifford performance and there is a video of Larry from clifford starting up a 235 with his headers. I have run old style Clifford long tube headers since 1981. Love them and love how they sound. There are some cheap sort of tube style headers floating around. Take a pass, they just plain suck. If running an offy manifold, they will generally bolt up to a stock exhaust manifold. So you could also cut a stock manifold up and make your own split manifold with the added benefit of keeping the heat riser system.

Speaking of offy intakes, if you flip one upside down, you will see two or three steel plugs staked into place. If you are going to run Fentons or Clifford headers, and you are not going to run the copper tubes for exhaust heat, but run hot water to the bottom of the intake (Langdon recommended and yep, it works really well), you have to weld little aluminum discs over the plugs. Those casting core plugs will leak if you dont.


Mike
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368157 Tue Jul 07 2020 09:09 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,612
C
Shop Shark
Clifford Performance offers a complete all in one cam kit for the 235/261.
For intakes I buy from a man out of Cedar Hill, Texas that has probably more inline six intakes than anyone. All cleaned up an around half price of new ones. Very short name like Aze??

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/jDhVMCQM/Decatur-2008-003.jpg[/img] [postimg.cc]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/S23Hn9kx/Decatur-2008-006.jpg[/img] [postimg.cc]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/CRcPZ84p/Decatur-2008-004.jpg[/img] [postimg.cc]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/Tyy9p4wn/Decatur-2008-005.jpg[/img] [postimg.cc]

He says he only brings about 25% of them to a swap meet so 75% are still at his shop!

Last edited by coilover; Tue Jul 07 2020 09:49 PM.

Evan
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368158 Tue Jul 07 2020 09:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,973
Socket Breaker
some other resources for you:

all inline engines:
https://inlinersinternational.org


all chevys, all the time:
https://www.chevytalk.org

Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368160 Tue Jul 07 2020 10:02 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,047
H
Boltergeist
Hotrod cams on a stovebolt are like lipstick on a pig. The only thing a stovebolt six has going for it is torque, and too much duration destroys that. Extra lift? Maybe on the exhaust. The intake valve gets close enough to the piston already, even with a stock cam. If you want to make the engine idle rough and make people think it's something it's not, go for it!
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Cams for the Chevy 235
69chevyguy #1368162 Tue Jul 07 2020 10:31 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,484
P
Shop Shark
A cam with enough overlap and late intake valve closing to add significant power is just going to make multiple carburetor adjustments more difficult.

Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4