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Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367699 Sat Jul 04 2020 02:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thx Ed, unfortunately (or fortunately), my truck is stock in that regard...it's only got two fuses, one for the stop lamps and one for the tail lamps!

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367709 Sat Jul 04 2020 03:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,536
E
Shop Shark
You could do the same thing by just disconnecting hot stuff, lights, horn, brake lights, etc.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
Re: Bring your best
EdPruss #1367740 Sat Jul 04 2020 06:47 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thx Ed! Luckily, my horn relay was clicking when I would hook up the battery. Upon further inspection, one of the two horns was blaring and getting extremely hot. It was just as you said, I disconnected it from the relay, and my battery voltage jumped back up. I connected it again and it sparked, and started blaring again! So I disconnected it, and that looks to have resolved that particular drain issue!!! I assume it's internally shorted somewhere, as I can see the plate moving inside when power gets applied, but I don't think it should be moving unless the horn button is actually being depressed. The other horn I have installed seems to be fine.

I was also able to resolve one of my park/head light issues by swapping the wires on the headlight switch - thx bartamos! We really need to find Deve and see if he can fix that illustration. I read he had some bad health issues and/or an accident, but I wonder if there's anyone else who can replace it for him?

Now the only issue I have left is that the park lights come on when I pull the headlight switch out to the Park position, but they go off when I pull to the headlight position (and of course, the headlights come on as expected.). I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that I don't have all the turn signals hooked up yet?

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367742 Sat Jul 04 2020 06:59 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
You are right, horn CAN NOT normally be operated without horn button being pushed. But you don't have a horn button installed. So if all is wired properly and you said:

"On the horn relay, the brown wire on the right goes to the steering column."

Are we supposed to know what that means? Is the wire bare end, or a frayed part touching metal? What is that wire doing? Where exactly is it?

As I already explained, the horn wire is grounded by the button. Grounded means touching column metal. That's how it completes the circuit and trips the relay. So if "column wire" is touching metal, it's trying to honk the horn............or the relay is bad or the horn itself is wired wrong.

You are having trouble being exact. Pretend we are not there to see what you see, because we are not.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367749 Sat Jul 04 2020 08:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
I have a black wire soldered to the steering column mast jacket inserted in the column. This black wire is connected to a brown wire that I have run directly to the Switch connection (right end) on the horn relay. I have nothing else installed to the column at this point. No spring, no contact plate, no wheel (removed), no cap. Just the column, bearings, and mast jacket.

I have two horns installed, Delco Remy Model 651 and they are wired together and connected to the Load connection (left end) on the horn relay.

As you directed, I removed the brown wire from the Switch connection (right end) on the horn relay. I ran the battery drain test. All looks good - 0.00 on the mm. Just to double check, I hooked the brown wire from the mast jacket again to the Switch connection (right end) of the horn relay. I reran the battery drain test and "horn #1" immediately started buzzing/moaning/blaring. So, I think the cause of the battery drain is "horn #1". "Horn #1" was extremely hot to the touch, so I assume it's the culprit. What I haven't done is totally disconnected "horn #1" and tried to hook up just "horn #2" to the Load connection (left end) on the horn relay to truly isolate the issue to "horn #1".

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367750 Sat Jul 04 2020 08:38 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
Horn relay mounting bracket/foot must be grounded according to 1951 diagram. You have mounted to painted surface. Attach a wire under screw to clean metal place.
Both horn brackets/housings must be grounded to clean metal place. No paint on horn bracket bottom or truck body. If the housings have a dedicated ground terminal/screw, be sure terminal wire is touching a clean horn terminal/screw and be sure other end is to clean metal spot nearby on truck.

When you add these grounds, you can't add them to another screw or bracket that is on a painted surface. To test, you can use well attached temporary wires to the battery negative terminal to see if the spark/honk/click/buzz...........goes away.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
bartamos #1367753 Sat Jul 04 2020 08:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thx bartamos, I'll give that a try. I didn't realize that screwing the paint-less horn relay to the firewall where a screw connects that unpainted surface to the virgin metal of the cab would cause a problem.

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367754 Sat Jul 04 2020 08:45 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
I was still typing, re read in case you missed anything. Both the relay AND the horn grounds must have very good grounds. All other grounds must be bare metal attachments. The only "return" for the electrics is the WHOLE truck. Frame, body, motor.............to the battery. VERY critical. This is a long and torturous path. Everything is rubber padded/mounted. So braided cable, or other, must be used to bypass all those rubber isolators.
I.E. Frame to body, body to motor, motor to battery........in any order. Not to painted surfaces. Flexible braided cable is best.

Looks like you are doing a really good job and a very nice truck is emerging.

I hope you cleaned out that column hub, where the horn parts go. Can't get a ground thru that gunk.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367792 Sat Jul 04 2020 11:42 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,309
5
Master Gabster
The front parking light are only on with the switch half way out. They turn off when you pull the switch all the way out.

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367809 Sun Jul 05 2020 02:50 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Bartamos, I was also thinking about the ground subject. When I was trying to confirm that horn #1 was causing the battery drain, and with the battery and horn relay still both fully hooked up, I removed the mounting nut from horn #1 (the mounting studs for the horn are integral to the horn housing and mount through L shaped mounting brackets bolted to the firewall.) I then started to lift the horn out of the mounting bracket (which was still mounted firmly to the firewall), and as I pulled the horn mounting studs out of the mounting bracket, it was sparking all the way. I presumed, maybe incorrectly, that such was an indication that it was finding a good ground and that something inside horn #1 was an issue? Not true?

Carl - thx for clarifying that such is normal! As I want them to be on also when I pull the headlight switch all the way out (with the headlights), I’m going to run a jumper from the Park to the Tail connections on the headlight switch!

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