The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


EVENTS

Check in for status!

Jump over to the Events Forum, to post events -- new ones or the ones we have been enjoying for some time.
Look to see what's been cancelled or postponed.

Encourage one another!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
4 members (JiMerit Boltr#43, reidy, CrowbarBob, Rusty Shackleford), 214 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums50
Topics120,033
Posts961,340
Members43,542
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 4 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367610 Fri Jul 03 2020 08:12 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Changed to 200 milliamps (200m DCA) and get 00.1 or 00.0.

For that test, I need to have the battery installed and the positive hooked up. It then says to set to 20A, but my multi-meter only has a 10A setting. Would that be good enough?

Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367611 Fri Jul 03 2020 08:16 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
Originally Posted by dhjmd
Changed to 200 milliamps (200m DCA) and get 00.1 or 00.0. Changed what to 200ma?

For that test, I need to have the battery installed and the positive hooked up. It then says to set to 20A, but my multi-meter only has a 10A setting. Would that be good enough? YES

Use red cable to ma if you have that port on your multimeter


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367612 Fri Jul 03 2020 08:29 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
LOL, we may be confusing two conversations.

Lightholder said to measure Ohms without the battery installed by touching the black lead to the negative cable and the red lead to the positive cable. I set the multimeter to 200k Ohms because he said if everything is wired correctly, it should go to infinity. I got "1", which as you said, means out of range, so I was assuming that test was positive. However, I'm pretty confident that if I put the battery back in, it will be dead tomorrow.

So I was moving on to your (bartamos) direction and was changing the setting of my multimeter but I only have 10A setting. I just wanted to know if that would be sufficient (even though that article you pointed me to says to set your mm to 20A.)

Last edited by dhjmd; Sat Jul 04 2020 01:23 AM.
Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367617 Fri Jul 03 2020 09:16 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
To be more clear when you state setting. Say if it's the red plug in or the dial setting. Post pic of your meter if you want.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367620 Fri Jul 03 2020 09:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Will do, sorry. Ok, so here's two pics. Ignore the fact that I now have the battery charger on the battery. Before that, I had the positive cable hooked to the battery, and the negative cable disconnected. I put my mm on 10A and the red lead is in the 10ADC hole. When I touch the black lead to the negative battery post, I was hearing this clicking sound. After repeatedly touching and releasing, the horn started to go off. So I took the mm off and put the negative battery cable on the battery and the horn again started to go off. Then I got to thinking, s*&t, I forgot, I don't have the horn fully wired yet (as you can see in the second pic.) Would that be the cause of my battery drain? The strange thing is, when I first hooked the battery up a couple weeks ago and submitted the OP, the battery was not going off? Or maybe I've got the horn relay wired incorrectly? I'll have to get a pic of the horn relay...

Attached Files
IMG_5668.jpg (238.64 KB, 127 downloads)
IMG_5670.jpg (153.5 KB, 124 downloads)
Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367621 Fri Jul 03 2020 09:42 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
Is that supposed to be the drain test you are showing? Hope not, because it's wrong and you are getting close to blowing the meter. I have no idea what you are showing in the meter picture. Please explain.
After that I will run you thru the test now that I see your meter. I would like to see a little better picture of meter by itself.

As far as the horn going off, that ain't good. So show me the relay wiring and explain exactly where each wire goes.

"Before that, I had the positive cable hooked to the battery, and the negative cable disconnected. I put my mm on 10A and the red lead is in the 10ADC hole. When I touch the black lead to the negative battery post, I was hearing this clicking sound."
Correct me if I'm wrong but this sounds like you had the meter red plug into 10A jack and dial on 10A .............and red lead hooked to positive battery post and black lead to negative battery post? Yes?
Where was the clicking sound coming from? Horn trumpet, horn relay or meter?............... or a cricket?


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367638 Sat Jul 04 2020 12:45 AM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,536
E
Shop Shark
If you start by disconnection all the fuses, you will save some time, fewer hot circuits, then hook each fuse up in the dark of night and look for a spark, that is your leak.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367648 Sat Jul 04 2020 02:23 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
Bartamos. The only thing worth noting in that mm picture is the mm settings and the red lead - nothing else. The battery is a fake/look-alike so those metal looking plates on top don’t connect to anything. The black lead isn’t actually touching anything in that pic and I had already put the battery charger back on when I took that pic. A new pic of just the meter is attached.

Yes, when I ran the drain test with the negative battery cable disconnected, I had the red lead plugged into the 10A jack and the dial set to 10A. The red lead was then connected to the negative battery cable. When I’d then touch the black lead to the negative battery post, the horn relay would click (I think it was the horn relay but could have been the voltage regulator?) After several times, maybe 8-10, the horn (not sure if it was just one or both) started blowing. I then disconnected the mm and put the negative battery cable on the negative battery post. It then started blowing the horn again. So I disconnected the negative battery cable and put the charger on for the night.

Also attached are pics of my horn relay and voltage regulator. On the horn relay, the brown wire on the right goes to the steering column. The red wire in the center goes to the BAT terminal on the voltage regulator. The thicker red wire on the left connects to the two horns. Thanks again for your patience and willingness to help!

Attached Files
Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367661 Sat Jul 04 2020 02:55 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,263
B
General Purpose
Your explanations and your pictures and your methods are somewhat confusing. You do have the correct connections on one end of the relay. Also: On the relay itself, the convention from left to right is Load-Battery-Switch, which is what you have. It's obvious that your drain could be horn related. Therefore you need to disconnect the horn and do the drain test. Because the horn seems to be interfering with that test. Then, if you see no drain, you can assume that the horn was the problem. So assuming the relay is good, then something up at the column must is shorting. The horn wire is a ground wire which is shorted intentionally by the button parts. Those parts can touch due to incorrect assembly. I don't know if that is your problem or not. But the horn is your priority after the drain test.

Sounds like you know what you are doing, I guess. I will let others take over. We are getting nowhere.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Bring your best
dhjmd #1367667 Sat Jul 04 2020 03:55 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 131
D
dhjmd Offline OP
Shop Shark
When you say disconnect the horn, I just disconnect it from the relay?

Also, FYI, I don’t have the horn contact parts installed (reference the pic I attached earlier of the steering wheel.)

Page 4 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Moderated by  Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4