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Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367455 Thu Jul 02 2020 02:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,612
H
Boltergeist
Your photo shows a pretty thick layer of bearing material at the parting line, and the diagonal lube groove is still there. Don't trash that engine- - - -someone experienced at scrape-fitting bearings can fix it easily. You can mount a magnetic base dial indicator to the block and check the main bearing journal for runout if you're concerned about a "bent" crankshaft- - - -which is pretty unlikely. People who are accustomed to working with glass-smooth insert bearings just can't comprehend the process of actually making a bearing fit the shaft it's running on. I guess when old geezers like me finally take a dirt nap, that skill set will go away with us- - - -nobody is interested in learning how to do it.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367690 Sat Jul 04 2020 12:29 PM
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 17
1
New Guy
Huh. I had assumed that the dull alloy/tin colored material was the babbitt. The bearing has virtually none of that left, just the rust colored part. I do see the lube groove and it does make sense that if that is there(it gets cut into the babbitt after pouring, right?)then babbitt material must still be there. But why is it not the same as the other bearings? The rear bearing cap had a good bit of the alloy/tin colored material. What is the flaking alloy/tin material?

That said, yesterday we drug out the original engine, checked the bearing caps on it(they all "looked" fine), flipped it right side up on a wood engine cradle. Too tired to do any more on it.

Thanks!

Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367728 Sat Jul 04 2020 05:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,049
J
Shop Shark
Dave, your plan using '38 parts seems to be the best solution, know several guys that took that route. Also a friend had to modify the front edge of the 216/235 pan plus the crossmember to make her fit. Another fellow used the '38 trans and also the '38 crossmember this is in a '30 roadster, beautiful show car and fools most as it looks like factory.

Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; Sat Jul 04 2020 05:17 PM.

It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367758 Sat Jul 04 2020 09:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,612
H
Boltergeist
That gray colored material is a "flash coat" of pure tin on later model engines with replaceable bearings. On a poured bearing like yours, I don't have a clue, unless a different alloy might have been used to recondition the main bearings sometime in the past. Lots of strange stuff can happen to an engine in close to 100 years! Look up the "Rotometals" website for a good description of the various alloys of "Babbit" that are available. Babbit metal is a mix of copper, lead, and tin. More copper in the mix gives a brown-looking color and a harder bearing. Chevy used a VERY hard alloy with a lot of copper in the mix for their spray-oiler engines. When I'm machining a connecting rod for an insert bearing I can always tell when I'm whittling on an OEM Chevy rod- - - - -the bearing material dulls the cutter bits a lot faster than one that's been reconditioned with a softer alloy.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367956 Mon Jul 06 2020 02:21 PM
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 17
1
New Guy
You are right, Jerry, the number of different babbitt material is extensive. And who knows how many times this engine has been apart. The cylinder bores are clean as a whistle, no scratches etc. We took the front bearing off to check it. It has a large chunk (say pea sized) of the tin/alloy colored material missing from the center. I didn't have my phone with me so unfortunately no picture. It's a ragged hole, with whatever that material is, over 1/16 inch thick, easily flaking off from the edges of the missing piece.

So we, decided to keep moving on with the original engine. Took the head off engine #3, looks like a brand new copper head gasket, head popped off easily. We could see no breach between cylinders etc. Removed carb, manifold, fuel pump, starter, head and started bolting things on original engine. Next step is removing engine from the car...

Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1367960 Mon Jul 06 2020 02:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,612
H
Boltergeist
Holes, chips and scratches in a bearing surface don't necessarily cause problems until they become extensive enough to compromise the area that comes into contact with the shaft. They just make good reservoirs for oil. As long as the shaft is smooth and there's enough contact area to carry the load of the shaft, the oil clearance is much more important than having a completely smooth bearing. If the bearing is generally in good shape, just chamfer the edges of a pit or flaw so there's no jagged edges to keep deteriorating the soft metal. Bearing scraping and clearance-setting is becoming a lost art due to the universal use of precision-fitted bearings in the past 75 years or so.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1368163 Tue Jul 07 2020 10:39 PM
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 4
R
New Guy
ChevyDave,
I’m following along here and hope you keep on with the 29 engine. You might be able to fool some if you drop in a ‘38 motor, but you will always know.

Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1368352 Thu Jul 09 2020 01:35 PM
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 17
1
New Guy
Hey Rich,

Not trying to fool anyone. I'd just like something I can drive easily for longer distances without worrying. That was the goal. Looks like now we are going to put back the original engine with new rings....we shall see how that goes. Next is to confirm original engine runs well. Built a wooden cradle for it, hopefully we'll get to work on it this weekend. Currently working on putting in a floor in for my sister, so...:-)

Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1368581 Fri Jul 10 2020 10:30 PM
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 17
1
New Guy
OK, today we got everything bolted onto the original engine in the cradle. Temporarily wired up to start. Cranked over very slowly with a (new) 6 volt battery but wouldn't start. We quickly decided to use a 12 volt battery to get it to spin up quickly. It cranked, but wouldn't start, or even pop. Spark at points, but not at plugs. We looked at the distributor and cap for a very long time. Replace condenser, reset the points. We compared the cap to one we found way in the back of the parts cabinet. It looks like the distributor cap should have a dome of graphite(?) hanging down to make contact with the rotor. But the domeless cap was just running, so we doubted our eyes and took apart the little post that goes through the side of the distributor trying to find someplace where things were grounding out. That is a fun little thing to play with on a hot humid day in the full sun. After taking it apart and reassembling it several times (and of course ripping the gromet), putting little pieces of electrical tape here and there with no difference, we finally swapped out the distributor caps. Crank, crank, crank. Maybe squirt just a bit more starting fluid. BOOM. Backfire thru carb and now I don't have anymore hair on my knuckles....

It just backfires thru the carb, doesn't want to start. So, I think we solved the spark issue, but what would cause the backfire thru carb without running at all? Timing? Any ideas?

Thanks!

Re: 1929 engine swap
1929chevydave #1368583 Fri Jul 10 2020 10:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,612
H
Boltergeist
Are you sure the firing order is correct? On later model Chevy 6 cylinders (216, 235, etc.) the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 with the distributor turning in a clockwise direction. Also be sure the distributor rotor is pointing toward the plug wire for the cylinder that's on the compression stroke when the coil fires.

Have you checked all the cylinders for compression? A burned or sticky intake valve will let the fire from the cylinder back up into the intake manifold, and a too-tight valve adjustment on one or more intakes will cause the same problem. Use a bright light and inspect the inside of the distributor cap for "carbon tracks"- - - - -they look like fine pencil lines from one connector to another that can let the spark jump to a plug wire that's not supposed to be firing at the time. Good luck! Use starting fluid sparingly, if at all. A teaspoonful of gasoline down the carburetor throat will accomplish the same thing with a lot less drama. Good luck!
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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