Good morning! Hubby and I were taking the door panels off of my 46 Chevy last night. The driver's side was a breeze, but 4 of the 5 on the passenger side, closest to the hinges, won't budge. We tried WD-40, "Blaster", heat, and a couple other crew chief tricks he had up his sleeve - nada!
Any suggestions on getting these suckers out without stripping them would be greatly appreciated!
You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck...and that's pretty much the same thing. Never marry the one you can live with, marry the one that you can't live without.
____________________________________________________________________________ Maria '46 Chevy pickup
1. use a little penetrating oil 2. let it sit / sink-in for several minutes 3. try again to remove the screw 4. cut a deep slot in the head of the crew (to allow a larger/stronger screw-driver or an impact wrench (reversable impact driver [google.com])?
Grease Monkey, Moderator General Truck Talk & Greasy Spoon
Those screws/bolts are called Clutch Head and require a special driver. One of the better investments in tools you could make is a Hand Impact Driver. It takes changeable bits and yes Clutch Head bits are available. NAPA can be your best friend in obtaining parts and tools for these old trucks. Word of caution..... don’t buy Chinese bits. Penetrating oil and a couple of good solid whacks with the right tool usually gets them loose. Those Clutch Heads are everywhere on our old trucks.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe USAF 1965-69 Weather Observation Tech (got paid to look at the clouds)
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
If you could get to the back where they screw in it would be help. I try all the things mentioned in the above posts first. When all else fails I take my oxy-acetylene torch or a MAP gas torch (this is simpler and usually works). I heat the nut the screw is attached to to red hot, then it almost always goes. But as was mentioned these are clutch-head bolts, so make sure you have the proper driver regardless of method. don
28 Years of Daily Driving but now on hiatus. With a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Give it a shot of Kroil or PB Blaster and a half dozen taps with a 6 or 8 ounce hammer every day for a few days or week and let it really soak in. The hammer tapping vibrates the threads allowing the penetrating oil to go deeper. Then use Wally's one tap tighten one tap loosen with the impact driver...if it still isn't moving after a few tries repeat the above for a few more days...it's a slow process, but I have had success with this method.
Impact while twisting is always better that just straight twisting force...
If all else fails use a small grinder (Die Grinder) and grind the heads off the clutch head bolts. This way you won't tear up your panels and you can work on getting the bolts out after the panels are removed. This is a last resort though.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Veteran of the USAF