I have a question to the group. I have a 1950 Stovebolt with a 235 4 speed that was installed by PO. I have to replace the front bearing retainer because it is broken. Because the retainer is broke the transmission leaks a major amount of 90w oil. It looks like the PO welded the U-joint on the front torque tube in place. I really don’t want to pull the engine to replace the retainer but does anyone have any ideas. I thought I would drop the torque tube - and pull the transmission back enough to replace the retainer. Now I don’t know what to do... please help...
“When I die, I want to die like my grandfather who died peacefully in his sleep. Not screaming like all the passengers in his wagon.” Abe Lincoln. 1950 Chevy Truck 3100 1958 MGA 1500 2014 Audi Q5
Hy Suddock, welcome, I'm not sure I understand what you are dealing with, can you not slide the driveshaft yoke back away from the transmission enough to let the driveshaft drop or move up away from the back of the transmission?
Remove the rear spring U bolts and slide the complete rear end assembly back on the springs until the U joint disengages. Then acquire the correct universal joint before you reassemble the job. There are supposed to be bolts holding the front and rear sections of the U joint together, not the Rube Goldberg mess you've got there! Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
The PO sure didn't do you any favor by welding the u-joint. Not sure if you can get enough clearance to get the driveshaft free but try this. Make sue you have the truck blocked on the frame, not by the rear end. Use whatever strapping affair you can devise to pull the rear end rearwards on it's pivots. The rear end may be able to be pulled far enough back to free the driveshaft or at least give you more access.
I agree with sliding the whole axle assembly to the rear on the springs.
Make sure you support the front of the torque tube so it does not drop when everything comes apart. I suggest you put a jack under it that you can slide to the rear as you move the axle. That front end is heavier than some people can easily support
You are on the right track, but mine is a bit different. That showed a full length torque tube, my torque tube is only about 30" long, it stops at a frame cross member and is supported there. It then changes to an open drive shaft. My concern is the assembly right at the end of the torque tube where it is supported to the cross member. The order of the assembly of the bearing, seal, and a disc of some kind under the yoke is my concern.