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Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1352702 Wed Apr 01 2020 03:45 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
Time to get the hood brace end welded in place. The overall measurement had been taken prior to cutting off the old one, down to the 14 gauge outer plate as a reference. So the new end is trimmed to match this dimension, then held in place with rare earth magnets. The center (inside) rib is aligned and tacked using the TIG....


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6726.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6727.JPG[/IMG]


Working outward, the panel surfaces are aligned and tacked as we go. Note the "batwings" left on the outside of the new brace end (yellow arrows). This will act as a heat sink when we make the outer tacks. Had these been trimmed to match prior to welding, the edge will have a tendency to burn back from the heat.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6729.JPG[/IMG]


The entire seam is TIG welded and then our batwings are trimmed using offset snips, then welds dressed..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6732.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6734.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6735.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6736.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6738.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6739.JPG[/IMG]


One down......

Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1352710 Wed Apr 01 2020 04:47 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,814
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
School is back in session, guys. Take a seat. thumbs_up


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1353044 Fri Apr 03 2020 04:20 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
Starting on the other end of the hood brace, this one not as rotted as the other but has issues just the same. One of those "while we're here" things....

The ribs are trimmed and ends rounded.. A piece of flat 16 gauge is trimmed to fit..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6743.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6744.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6745.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6746.JPG[/IMG]


tacked together....


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6747.JPG[/IMG]


….then the photographer went on strike until we got to this...


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6748.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6749.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6750.JPG[/IMG]


We'll get this trimmed and installed tomorrow..

Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1353173 Fri Apr 03 2020 09:14 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,814
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
A question from the class, Robert.
What are you using to dress up the welds on the concave parts such as the opposite side of your last picture?
Using even a 3" cutoff wheel makes it highly likely that I would bugger up the opposite side. I've resorted to a Dremel with a small grinding wheel for tight spots, but dang, is that slow.
Thanks


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1353229 Sat Apr 04 2020 01:58 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
Kevin, if you're talking about the rounded ends here:


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/18/IMG_6748.JPG[/IMG]


I have a ball end die grinder about 1/2" diameter that I use in there. Still pulling them slivers out!!! I'll get a picture of all the implements of destruction when I'm in the shop this weekend.

Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1353235 Sat Apr 04 2020 02:44 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,814
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Yep, that's what I was referring to.
I know what you mean about slivers. I got self-studded shoes after using a sheet metal nibblers. Those little crescent shaped slivers were terrible. Took about 10 minutes per shoe to dig the little buggers out of the soles before I could go in the house.
Thanks

Last edited by klhansen; Sat Apr 04 2020 04:12 AM. Reason: my keyboard can't spell

Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Butt welds for patch panels
klhansen #1353899 Tue Apr 07 2020 05:22 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
More progress on the hood, here is the other end of the hood brace.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6813.JPG[/IMG]


Looking at the back side, you can see where a few holes were welded closed the last time it was painted, and the severe pitting and new holes that we have. A testament to the fact that what shows is always the tip of the iceberg. Although better than the passenger side, this is definitely one of those "while we are here" things. Do it right, do it once. (grinder marks were mine)


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6816.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6815.JPG[/IMG]


With our new replacement all one piece, the next step is to bend the flange that spot welds to the hood skin. A tipping wheel in the Fasti-werks bead roller makes quick work of it. The bend line was transposed from the original and an initial pass under the tipping die marks the crease line a bit better, Then successive passes are made, lifting slightly with each pass. This is done until the beads interfere with the tipping die.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6809.JPG[/IMG]



[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6810.JPG[/IMG]



Then the partial bent flange is clamped in the magnetic brake for the remainder of the fold. This brake allows us to use a die on either side of the bead details, where a full die may inadvertently push in on the beads.


[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6817.JPG[/img]


[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6819.JPG[/img]


End gets cut to length and marked for initial trimming


[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6823.JPG[/img]


[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6824.JPG[/img]


Looks like we may have enough bead stock left for another couple of ends.


[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6821.JPG[/img]



That's where we left off yesterday, we'll see about welding the new end on today..



.

Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1353902 Tue Apr 07 2020 05:31 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,814
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by MPandC
Looks like we may have enough bead stock left for another couple of ends.
I guess you'll need to find another truck to fix. wink
I imagine your pile of "we may need that some day" metal far outstrips mine (and I come from a long line of packrats). grin


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1354118 Thu Apr 09 2020 01:21 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
Our last end for the hood brace. Off with the old.....


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6834.JPG[/IMG]


Then it gets trimmed to our scribe line and the end media blasted in prep for welding. Our new end is test fit and trimmed until we get the right distance to our reference marks. The "batwings" give us a heat sink at the edge for less chance of burning back the edge at the weld.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6837.JPG[/IMG]


The center rib is aligned both on the sides and the face, and tacked in position using the TIG.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6838.JPG[/IMG]


The pieces are aligned as we work outward, tacking as we go. A "corking tool" is used as a dolly where any bumping may be needed for alignment.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6842.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6840.JPG[/IMG]


Tacked...


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6846.JPG[/IMG]


Welded....


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6847.JPG[/IMG]


Welds cleaned up and end angles compared..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6851.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6854.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6855.JPG[/IMG]


Now we can get back to straightening sheet metal..

Re: Butt welds for patch panels
MPandC #1356547 Wed Apr 22 2020 03:16 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 676
M
MPandC Offline OP
Shop Shark
We have a few more spots to fix from cracking and fatigue, namely the holes on the underside for the rubber hood bumpers. We've already repaired three, and from the looks of it, need to take care of the remaining three..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6895.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6896.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6897.JPG[/IMG]


18 Gauge x 1/4" plugs were TIG welded in to fill the existing holes, and a copper backer gives us a bit of a heat sink so the cracks/fatigued areas don't blow a big hole on us..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6904.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6908.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6909.JPG[/IMG]


Welds were dressed on both sides of the sheet metal, and new holes drilled slightly in farther from the edge to help slow down the reappearance of cracks.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6943.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6944.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6945.JPG[/IMG]


Next, I'm sure everyone has seen how these hoods can oil can, show low spots, and try to flop around while driving down the road. Part of that is abuse over the years, fatigue, etc. Any low spots invariably result in a loss of support of the hood and will show oil cans or loose areas.


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6966.JPG[/IMG]


A good tool to check the crown of the hood is a long straight edge in the form of a 36" rule. If you don't have one, most hardware stores sell aluminum flat bar for a few dollars that will make a good profile template. For this style hood, lows are bad, straight is better, and a slight crown in the center crease along the entire length of the "flat" area of the hood is optimal.. This gives the support to help eliminate those oil cans and floppy hoods.


When we started there was an obvious area about 12" forward of the rear edge, dead center, that appears low, and was easily pushed downward. In order to better define the center crease and provide the support needed, we will use a sand bag (a rather large one) and lightly hammer from the bottom side into said bag with a purpose built "punch".


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6967.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6969.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6968.JPG[/IMG]


In order to keep the back portion of the hood down against the bag for support, we used our latest "metalshaping" tool to hold the front of the hood up, an engine hoist..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6958.JPG[/IMG]


A reference mark is used on the inside, measured and centered...


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6961.JPG[/IMG]


The crease was checked for low spots prior, and the bottom marked. The "punch" is dragged along the centerline and tapped as you go. Flip the hood over, check crown, remark as needed, repeat. We got to a good straight/slight crown and the oil can disappeared. Pushing along the entire center crease was a nice tight support now..


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6962.JPG[/IMG]


[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/y167/rmccartney/IMG_6964.JPG[/IMG]


So if you are having issue with your hood, I would suggest first checking your center crease.

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