Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop Remflex manifold gasket

After trying 2 different gaskets and sealer with one, I still couldn't eliminate the spitting sound and stumble at idle I got with an exhaust leak between the head and intake/exhaust manifold. Decided to try one more time and use a Remflex gasket this time. I did notice that the gasket surfaces on the head were pitted badly in spots. Can anyone advise me on whether I should use any kind of sealer on this gasket? 53 Chevy truck with 216 George

In 60+ years of doing professional mechanic work, I've never been able to find a sealer that will stand up to exhaust gas temperature. Now, in about 3-2-1 seconds, somebody who has read three copies of Hot Rod Magazine and found at least five internet references will tell you I don't know what I'm talking about. It's up to you to choose who to believe. The only cure for pitted gasket surfaces is a milling machine and a fly cutter.
Jerry

I agree with Jerry, but if you were to get a gasket to take up the pitting it would be the remflex, however no guarantees.

Weren't exhaust manifold gaskets back in the old days made out of asbestos? (OMG, did I actually say that word? )
They probably had enough resiliency to seal without any sealant, which like Jerry says, can't stand the heat. Even JB weld won't work above about 250F.

J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500 °F (260 °C), [en.wikipedia.org] and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 °F (316 °C) for 10 minutes.[9]

OK, but still not high enough for exhaust temps.

From J-B Weld's Site [jbweld.com]

Will J-B Weld work on an automotive exhaust?

Because of the extreme temperatures of exhaust systems, we do not recommend J-B Weld for use on exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters. Nor do we recommend the product for repairs within the combustion chamber. However, in areas where the continuous temperature is less than 450º F, we do recommend our HighHeat epoxy putty stick.

I've seen exhaust port temperatures in the neighborhood of 2000 degrees F. on dyno runs of race engines at full throttle. The headers were translucent enough we could flames dancing arouind inside the pipes!
Jerry

The is the Engine Shop not the HiPo Shop.

Would normal Stovebolt engines have those 2000 degrees temperatures?

Probably would on heavy load. My Diesel runs around 300F at idle, and will hit 1200F. The pyrometer is at the outlet of the exhaust manifold. Gas engines typically run hotter than diesels. We had a Model A exhaust manifold cherry red once when the timing was too retarded.

Watch the exhaust manifolds on a 454 Chevy engine in a motorhome on a long uphill pull. They get red hot, and those are cast iron, not thinwall steel tubing. That's well over 1000 degrees, probably closer to 1500. I've made several test runs with different motorhomes with the engine cover off, trying to diagnose detonation noises that were causing cracked spark plug insulators and burned valves. A stovebolt engine will probably do something similar pulling a hill at close to maximum gross weight. A Cowboy Cadillac that never does anything more stressful than hauling an iced-down Yeti cooler full of beer to a tailgate party, not so much!
Jerry