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Irwin Arnstein working on his
1959 Chevy 1-Ton


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Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,142
D
'Bolter
I generally change the oil about once a year in the old iron. 5 quarts (I do not run an oil filter on my bypass 261 motor), 6 quarts with a filter. So about 45-54 per oil change. Easy money compared to having to change out bearings or rebuild a motor so I can live with 9 per quart. Like I said, I am pretty hard on my motors but in the decade since I have been using the Bradpenn, no issues, and their breakin oil is excellent. I was sold on the stuff when I pulled the valve cover off spring time for the annual valve adjusting and saw that stuff had clinged to the rocker arms all winter during storage. So I stuck with it.

Last edited by Dragsix; Thu Mar 12 2020 02:37 PM.

Mike
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,482
J
'Bolter
I also like Bradpenn oil, if you ever get around it, put some on your fingers and pull it apart. It' stringing and very hard to get off. It will still be hanging on the crank when you are ready to start it, no matter how long it sets.

As far as the Zinc amounts, your engine has very little valve spring pressure even when wide open, so any oil you choose will be good enough.

Joe H #1349726 Thu Mar 12 2020 07:49 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,615
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Joe H
I also like Bradpenn oil, if you ever get around it, put some on your fingers and pull it apart. It' stringing and very hard to get off. It will still be hanging on the crank when you are ready to start it, no matter how long it sets.

As far as the Zinc amounts, your engine has very little valve spring pressure even when wide open, so any oil you choose will be good enough.

That's what STP oil treatment does, it's very stringy, and according to their info, contains ZDDP. I have actually used that at full strength in my Model A tranny. Wasn't very good when temps got down near freezing though. I nearly bent the shifter one morning trying to get it into gear. eek


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,386
G
'Bolter
Hmmm. I also have a model A. I was actually thinking of filling the trans with Lucas, considering it calls for 600w.

Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 554
A
'Bolter
I am currently running during my break-in period Amsoil break-in straight 30W. SAE 30W

I'm going to switch to their Z-Rod 10W-30 after 500 miles. It is made for older, flat tappet cam engines. Z-Rod 10W-30 Synthetic


58' 3200 235 3-speed/OD

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,851
B
Shop Shark
for you all using VR-1, if it is truly a racing oil, it won't have detergent in it,

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,582
Red dot, center of chest ...
Originally Posted by brokenhead
for you all using VR-1, if it is truly a racing oil, it won't have detergent in it,

I bought five quarts of it the other day. It says (on the bottle) "high performance formula for push-rod and flat tappet engines"
On the back of the bottle it says "High zinc/phosphorous for extreme anti-wear protection, including flat-tappet and performance cam applications"
"For use in classic and modern muscle cars, race cars, and high performance passenger cars"
"Friction modifiers help deliver maximum horsepower"
"Enhanced anti-foaming, even under high stress"
"Exceeds API Service SL"

SL is for automobile engines older than 2004.

The Valvoline FAQ says "....include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils"
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
And "Valvoline VR1 racing oil is conventional, non-synthetic racing oil."


Paul Schmehl CI 6
geek@stovebolt.com
Stovebolt Staff: Geek
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