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Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1338398 Thu Dec 19 2019 11:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 747
T
Shop Shark
Merry Christmas from the South-land. Looking forward to the latch install, I was thinking about doing that farther down the line.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1344446 Fri Jan 31 2020 03:44 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
Howdy folks, Happy New Year!

Sorry for the absence, I was going to post last week but I didn't really have much to say so I thought I would hold off until this week when I had completed some work and had more of an update.

I started in on the doors with the intent of installing the bear claw latches. Once I opened up the doors though I changed my mind. The folks I talked to about it when I was contemplating the mod were all "oh yeah, they are way safer and an important upgrade" once I got into it and it was looking like thing were not an easy fit... the tune changed somewhat.
Yes, the bear claw latches are more secure, however if your stock latches are working as designed and not worn they are still safe.
Okay, with that in mind, I have decided not to change them. It is not a cost thing, as the latches are relatively cheap at about 125.00 CAD. The install is somewhat intrusive as you need to cut a section of the door out to install the receiver/latch assembly. Reinforcing the cab when the latching post is mounted is recommended as well.
The sticking point for me was that I could not use the stock door handles. The latch release box is a kind of remote set up in that the door lever is connected with a cable to the latch rather than a direct linkage. The stock setup is a square post through a matching square receiver in the door, like a home knob set up. To make room for the latch release box, the bear claw would need to be moved down the door. Cutting and removing the stock set up and fabricating and installing the new latch mounts would be about 4 hours each I figure. I couldn't get past the fact that the latch boxes were set up for a Ford handle, but the stock door handles have some really nice detail cast into them. The latches were working smoothly prior to removing the door panels, however they are sticking now. I figure once I have repaired any wear, cleaned and greased them they will be good as new. I was pleasantly surprised as well at how solid the insides of the doors are. I am not sure if the sound deadener in there was original, but I know that the last guys to work on the truck did not replace it. ( splash and dash deluxe )

I have been procrastinating about finishing the box bed, I had not really thought deciding to make my own through thoroughly. A pre-cut kit would have all the holes line up and fit and would have been really nice and quick. Then I remembered that I had moved the cross rail supports as well, so absolutely nothing lined up. I had to move the cross supports to make room for the tubs, which are making room for the kick-**** oversize tires I chose! I love them boots!!!
Anyways, the domino effect is that nothing lines up hole wise. Wait, that is not completely true, the front and rear bed rail holes are okay, as they were not drilled yet. I have also reinforced the bed as I have mentioned before I intend on trucking my motorcycle around in the back so I needed additional support for the tie down system. I have been putting this off as I didn't have much enthusiasm about getting the brain juices worked up to figure it all out. Too bad princess, get'er done right, so I got to it and here is the result. I am about 75% done. I started by bolting the E-track down to the bed board it sits on. Then I started in the center and worked my way out bolting the rails down and drilling the front and rear end holes. I could then figure out where I need to add metal to securely bolt the tie down rails to the frame. I thought about using angle iron, but went with some 16ga sheet metal with 90deg edges for strength. I tend to lean towards the overbuilt end of the spectrum, bigger is better right?? I am hoping that my efforts to resist that don't come back to haunt me. I thought the sheet metal would spread the load out over a larger surface area allowing me to go with a lighter material ( compared to 1/8" angle iron ) You can see in the pictures how it turned out and I am happy with it so far. I needed the bolts to mount the tie down rails down as I need the heads to be flush so they don't interfere with the chrome bed strips. I am intending on bolting every 2nd hole on the tie down strips ( E-track ) , have a look at the pictures, even I think bolting every hole would be overkill.

Anyways, thanks again for following along.
Let me know if you have any comments or concerns, I am happy to answer any questions you may have.

See the attached word doc for the pictures.
Regards,
Steve

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Jan 31-2020 part 1a.docx (4.14 MB, 21 downloads)
SHA1: 9118ee6edd9384a57556a17bf90649e216f217bb
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Jan 31-2020 part 2.docx (2.14 MB, 14 downloads)
SHA1: 314fd7d69bb59d5b6b3fa4d8d19a7767f97f68b9

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1346427 Fri Feb 14 2020 01:10 AM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey

Hello Again;

Once again thanks for following along.

This week was a hectic one, but a fun one as well. I was able to work on the truck and get some good hours in, I think the total comes to about 28 hours.
I wanted to complete the bed and get that finished, however I did not...
You do your best with sales people, providing as much information as you can and most of the time it works out. This time it did not, I gave the fellow the catalogue number as well as the screw size/thread and length. I asked for a 10-24 x 1-1/4" long tapered head machine screw. What I got was a 1-1/4" wood screw, not good. So while I was waiting for the right screws to arrive I had some fun instead and got a couple of projects completed.
I have mentioned in earlier posts that I had re-purposed the stock fuel filler neck into a battery disconnect hidey-hole. I needed to make an extension for the key to be able to reach the switch as the original was only about 1-1/2" long. I think It turned out good and should be plenty strong enough so as not be damaged on my key ring.
The 2nd project I have been wanting to get done were the reverse lights. Looking around on the internet I have seen various lights, I liked the look of tucking them into the Bed rails the best. The ones that I saw were all in the 150.00 USD range and I wasn't sure how bright they would be. So I bought some LED lights, just the light only, no lens and got the brain juices flowing. They turned out really well, pretty much exactly as I envisioned them. However I am not sure if I really like them as the look, to me anyways is like something from 50's. Too pokey!!!
I will sit on them for now and think about it, I may need to go back to the drawing board.

The screws did show up on Monday afternoon, so I could get to work on the bed again. I needed to bolt the wood strip with the E-track on it down so I could get a measurement of how much I had to trim the outside boards to get the current spacing for the last ( outside ) boards. I got close, but had to clean up and get back to work ( the paying job ). I will be able to complete the bed on the next round at home.

Anyways, pictures as usual...
Let me know your thoughts on the reverse lights, I am curious what you all think.

Regards,
Steve

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Feb 13-2020.docx (2.9 MB, 15 downloads)
SHA1: a343b1baa3d8f2ba1aa19e727fa26b54d3b02196

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1346471 Fri Feb 14 2020 12:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 747
T
Shop Shark
I like the concept of what your doing with the reverse lights, form and function seem great. As you said though the mounting doesn't to fit the look of your truck, perhaps if they were inset flush into the bed rail, just a thought.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build
TUTS 59 #1346492 Fri Feb 14 2020 04:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
Hey there TUTS;
Yes, I had thought about that. The existing lens is just..... big enough that it won't slide into the rail.
I think the interference is about 0.050" so I could put them on the lathe and sand/trim the lens down to fit.
I don't think it would make the lens too thin as it is tapered so the base ( where it is thickest ) is where the material would need to be removed.

Thanks, for the reply I appreciate the input.
Steve


1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1346695 Sun Feb 16 2020 03:51 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,697
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
Steve! Looking very nice! I quite like the idea of the lights and sort of like the stick out look for some reason. Looks “aerospace”- ish to me. You should stop wrenching on your truck and come work on mine. Please. Like right now. I’ve been making puppies in my shop for a long time. I tried to work on my door a week or so back. Tried... 🤣😔


In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures here [photos.app.goo.gl]

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1346745 Sun Feb 16 2020 05:12 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
Hey fox;

Young children take priority, enjoy the time you have with them as they grow up so fast. Geez that makes me feel old to be spouting"old guy" wizdoms...

I neglected to mention that the lenses are up-cycled from HD motorcycle signal lights. Also, I made a drawing if anyone is interested. I think I may have posted it, but can't remember for sure.
If you are interested, PM me and I can reply with the drawing. There are a couple of modifications that need to be made, but the overall design works well and is easily adaptable to bigger/smaller sizes.
The LED lights were 30.00CAD off Amazon, the lenses were 20.00 from the local bike recycler and the raw aluminium was 30.00 for 1.5" x 24" long round bar.

Steve


1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1348358 Sat Feb 29 2020 07:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
Hello all;

Thanks for checking in this week, sorry to disappoint but this will be a short update. At least regarding the truck build.
I did work on the truck and I was hoping to complete the bed install, however I did not get much time in, so the bed install was not completed.
A couple of interesting things happened which limited my shop time.
The first, was that I had committed to working the SoCal "road show" with the shop owner where I am building the truck.
SoCal, at least the Canadian version of it, operates a travelling set-up and attends swap meets and car shows. The show attended was the Calgary World of Wheels ( WOW ) event.
Since the owner is generously allowing me to use the shop, this was a way for me to partially pay him back for his generosity.
My wife and I drove down to Calgary Friday afternoon and after visiting family for a couple hours we worked the show for a few hours. Saturday was 9-9, and then rinse and repeat for Sunday. Sunday had the extra fun added in of tearing down the set-up, loading up and then travelling back home. Though the Sunday show hours were actually only 10-6, by the time we had tore down, loaded up and drove home it was past 11:30 when we crawled into bed.
Here it is a week later and my legs and back are still aching from the standing around! I have attached some pictures of what I considered the highlights of the show. There were about 200 cars on display, some very nice builds for sure. There was a good turnout from all brands and years, though the early Chev trucks ( pre-1960 )were not represented at all. A little disappointing, but hey it gives me fuel to complete my truck and get it out there. I only wish I was into the car show scene, I mean I love to go and see, but I have no real desire to show...
The second thing to happen was the shop had a fire. It was pretty bad, though no one was hurt the entire shop came close to burning down. What happened? A 1970's vintage Mopar was in the shop to get the floor repaired . The underbody had been coated in the usual undercoating stuff which smoldered and then caught fire. The really interesting part was that the car was up on a hoist, so when the car was discovered on fire - think 6' flames!!! the car had to be lowered to the ground before any kind of fire-fighting could be done. The fire dept. was called in and opened the ceiling up to verify the fire had not made it into the attic space, so the shop was saved, however the car is considered a total loss.
PSA moment... Do you have insurance for your build? I had actually just put insurance on my truck to cover it from fire and theft the week prior. I discovered it is really quite economical and considering the hours I have invested I figured it would be a shame if it was lost. I do not have it insured for the estimated completed value, I will once it is complete. For now I have it insured for what I have into it parts wise.

That is it for now, take care and in the words of Don Cherry; "keep your stick on the ice!"
Steve

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Feb 29-2020.docx (4.74 MB, 17 downloads)
SHA1: 37ab8a68143ecf4cb15cfe5b3705ea2b0ee24d0d

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1348449 Sun Mar 01 2020 04:56 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 747
T
Shop Shark
WOW... You had a full week! Glad your truck wasn't damaged in the fire.. Most folks don't consider insurance on something that is being worked on, good advise.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build
Canadian_guy #1349738 Thu Mar 12 2020 09:14 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 86
Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
Hello all;

Thank-you for checking in and following along.

Have you all stocked up on toilet paper? I honestly do NOT understand what that is all about, but whatever, to each their own!

I got 30 hours in on the truck this week. I completed the bed wood install as I have been trying to get done for a while now. That felt good to say I am done. I do have the trim pieces around the mini-tubs to compete so it is not 100% done, though I am not going to do that portion so I will call it a win. I am having Dean, the metal fabricator do them so I may need to assist, however I am hoping they will be done when I return. I did not take any more pictures as I have lots of the bed and they all really look the same....
The other thing I have been meaning to get to is the front clip. The hood gaps have been difficult to troubleshoot as they are all over the place. Some of the gap issues are due to the factory tolerances from and some are from the body/chassis swap. For those that may have just started to follow along, the body is from a 1940 - 1.5 Ton truck and the chassis is from a 1946 1/2 Ton truck. I figured I was a little high on the shim for the radiator support and as well the whole clip needed to come forward about 3/8". For the clip to pull forward I needed to slot the mounting holes for the bumper brackets. Once that was complete I figured I should install the hood correctly to accurately check gaps as I had just been sitting the hood on the radiator shroud up until then. To do that I figured I would put on the hood ornament. Well, the hood ornament had a broken foot which I figured I might as well take a crack at fixing. Someone previous to my ownership had damaged the footing and attempted to repair it. The repair was substandard, see the photo, to say the least. Of course the metal is crap so welding it is a complete crap shoot, so i can understand why the 1st repair came out badly. I decided against welding so I cut/ground away the sides and then fabricated the replacement base. The gaps opened up a little when it was all welded together, but I intended on filling the base with epoxy to lock it all together and I can fill in the gaps that way. Once sanded smooth and then painted, or possibly powder coated it will look good as new.

I have attached some pictures of the hood ornament repairs.
That is about it for now, thanks for your time.
Steve

Attached Files
Stovebolt Update March 12, 2020.docx (3.61 MB, 15 downloads)
SHA1: 39d2a26641467c16f9a0382248969018bedf38bf

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
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