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Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1338398 Thu Dec 19 2019 11:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 562
T
TUTS 59 Offline
Shop Shark
Merry Christmas from the South-land. Looking forward to the latch install, I was thinking about doing that farther down the line.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1344446 Fri Jan 31 2020 03:44 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 47
C
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Howdy folks, Happy New Year!

Sorry for the absence, I was going to post last week but I didn't really have much to say so I thought I would hold off until this week when I had completed some work and had more of an update.

I started in on the doors with the intent of installing the bear claw latches. Once I opened up the doors though I changed my mind. The folks I talked to about it when I was contemplating the mod were all "oh yeah, they are way safer and an important upgrade" once I got into it and it was looking like thing were not an easy fit... the tune changed somewhat.
Yes, the bear claw latches are more secure, however if your stock latches are working as designed and not worn they are still safe.
Okay, with that in mind, I have decided not to change them. It is not a cost thing, as the latches are relatively cheap at about 125.00 CAD. The install is somewhat intrusive as you need to cut a section of the door out to install the receiver/latch assembly. Reinforcing the cab when the latching post is mounted is recommended as well.
The sticking point for me was that I could not use the stock door handles. The latch release box is a kind of remote set up in that the door lever is connected with a cable to the latch rather than a direct linkage. The stock setup is a square post through a matching square receiver in the door, like a home knob set up. To make room for the latch release box, the bear claw would need to be moved down the door. Cutting and removing the stock set up and fabricating and installing the new latch mounts would be about 4 hours each I figure. I couldn't get past the fact that the latch boxes were set up for a Ford handle, but the stock door handles have some really nice detail cast into them. The latches were working smoothly prior to removing the door panels, however they are sticking now. I figure once I have repaired any wear, cleaned and greased them they will be good as new. I was pleasantly surprised as well at how solid the insides of the doors are. I am not sure if the sound deadener in there was original, but I know that the last guys to work on the truck did not replace it. ( splash and dash deluxe )

I have been procrastinating about finishing the box bed, I had not really thought deciding to make my own through thoroughly. A pre-cut kit would have all the holes line up and fit and would have been really nice and quick. Then I remembered that I had moved the cross rail supports as well, so absolutely nothing lined up. I had to move the cross supports to make room for the tubs, which are making room for the kick-**** oversize tires I chose! I love them boots!!!
Anyways, the domino effect is that nothing lines up hole wise. Wait, that is not completely true, the front and rear bed rail holes are okay, as they were not drilled yet. I have also reinforced the bed as I have mentioned before I intend on trucking my motorcycle around in the back so I needed additional support for the tie down system. I have been putting this off as I didn't have much enthusiasm about getting the brain juices worked up to figure it all out. Too bad princess, get'er done right, so I got to it and here is the result. I am about 75% done. I started by bolting the E-track down to the bed board it sits on. Then I started in the center and worked my way out bolting the rails down and drilling the front and rear end holes. I could then figure out where I need to add metal to securely bolt the tie down rails to the frame. I thought about using angle iron, but went with some 16ga sheet metal with 90deg edges for strength. I tend to lean towards the overbuilt end of the spectrum, bigger is better right?? I am hoping that my efforts to resist that don't come back to haunt me. I thought the sheet metal would spread the load out over a larger surface area allowing me to go with a lighter material ( compared to 1/8" angle iron ) You can see in the pictures how it turned out and I am happy with it so far. I needed the bolts to mount the tie down rails down as I need the heads to be flush so they don't interfere with the chrome bed strips. I am intending on bolting every 2nd hole on the tie down strips ( E-track ) , have a look at the pictures, even I think bolting every hole would be overkill.

Anyways, thanks again for following along.
Let me know if you have any comments or concerns, I am happy to answer any questions you may have.

See the attached word doc for the pictures.
Regards,
Steve

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Jan 31-2020 part 1a.docx (4.14 MB, 11 downloads)
SHA1: 9118ee6edd9384a57556a17bf90649e216f217bb
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Jan 31-2020 part 2.docx (2.14 MB, 6 downloads)
SHA1: 314fd7d69bb59d5b6b3fa4d8d19a7767f97f68b9

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1346427 Fri Feb 14 2020 01:10 AM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 47
C
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher

Hello Again;

Once again thanks for following along.

This week was a hectic one, but a fun one as well. I was able to work on the truck and get some good hours in, I think the total comes to about 28 hours.
I wanted to complete the bed and get that finished, however I did not...
You do your best with sales people, providing as much information as you can and most of the time it works out. This time it did not, I gave the fellow the catalogue number as well as the screw size/thread and length. I asked for a 10-24 x 1-1/4" long tapered head machine screw. What I got was a 1-1/4" wood screw, not good. So while I was waiting for the right screws to arrive I had some fun instead and got a couple of projects completed.
I have mentioned in earlier posts that I had re-purposed the stock fuel filler neck into a battery disconnect hidey-hole. I needed to make an extension for the key to be able to reach the switch as the original was only about 1-1/2" long. I think It turned out good and should be plenty strong enough so as not be damaged on my key ring.
The 2nd project I have been wanting to get done were the reverse lights. Looking around on the internet I have seen various lights, I liked the look of tucking them into the Bed rails the best. The ones that I saw were all in the 150.00 USD range and I wasn't sure how bright they would be. So I bought some LED lights, just the light only, no lens and got the brain juices flowing. They turned out really well, pretty much exactly as I envisioned them. However I am not sure if I really like them as the look, to me anyways is like something from 50's. Too pokey!!!
I will sit on them for now and think about it, I may need to go back to the drawing board.

The screws did show up on Monday afternoon, so I could get to work on the bed again. I needed to bolt the wood strip with the E-track on it down so I could get a measurement of how much I had to trim the outside boards to get the current spacing for the last ( outside ) boards. I got close, but had to clean up and get back to work ( the paying job ). I will be able to complete the bed on the next round at home.

Anyways, pictures as usual...
Let me know your thoughts on the reverse lights, I am curious what you all think.

Regards,
Steve

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Feb 13-2020.docx (2.9 MB, 8 downloads)
SHA1: a343b1baa3d8f2ba1aa19e727fa26b54d3b02196

1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1346471 Fri Feb 14 2020 12:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 562
T
TUTS 59 Offline
Shop Shark
I like the concept of what your doing with the reverse lights, form and function seem great. As you said though the mounting doesn't to fit the look of your truck, perhaps if they were inset flush into the bed rail, just a thought.


Craig

Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: TUTS 59] #1346492 Fri Feb 14 2020 04:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 47
C
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hey there TUTS;
Yes, I had thought about that. The existing lens is just..... big enough that it won't slide into the rail.
I think the interference is about 0.050" so I could put them on the lathe and sand/trim the lens down to fit.
I don't think it would make the lens too thin as it is tapered so the base ( where it is thickest ) is where the material would need to be removed.

Thanks, for the reply I appreciate the input.
Steve


1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1346695 Sun Feb 16 2020 03:51 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,574
F
Fox Offline
Shop Shark
Steve! Looking very nice! I quite like the idea of the lights and sort of like the stick out look for some reason. Looks “aerospace”- ish to me. You should stop wrenching on your truck and come work on mine. Please. Like right now. I’ve been making puppies in my shop for a long time. I tried to work on my door a week or so back. Tried... 🤣😔


In the Stovebolt Gallery
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1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1346745 Sun Feb 16 2020 05:12 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 47
C
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hey fox;

Young children take priority, enjoy the time you have with them as they grow up so fast. Geez that makes me feel old to be spouting"old guy" wizdoms...

I neglected to mention that the lenses are up-cycled from HD motorcycle signal lights. Also, I made a drawing if anyone is interested. I think I may have posted it, but can't remember for sure.
If you are interested, PM me and I can reply with the drawing. There are a couple of modifications that need to be made, but the overall design works well and is easily adaptable to bigger/smaller sizes.
The LED lights were 30.00CAD off Amazon, the lenses were 20.00 from the local bike recycler and the raw aluminium was 30.00 for 1.5" x 24" long round bar.

Steve


1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll!
1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
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