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Yes. Still no spark
#1343793 Sun Jan 26 2020 10:58 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 13
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
First thanks everyone for all the help on my last thread concerning no spark. Here is where I am at at this point the truck is a 1949 Chevy 3100 6v negative ground. I have voltage going all the way to the points with the gap set correctly and everything checked point to point we are getting 6v to the points and to to the primary and secondary windings in the coil but nothing to the spark plugs. We have changed the coil with a known good coil, changed the points, condenser and coil several times still no spark. Changed the cap and rotor and made sure everything is grounded. I had a friend come confirm everything and from what we both agree we should be getting spark
So what’s next... here are my questions:
With the 6v the engine seems slow to crank and the voltage drops to 2 volts at the coil. Is this normal?
Can the starter be the problem? I did change the switch when I first got it because it was bad. I know it spins.
Can the voltage regulator be the problem? All we have hooked up is a toggle switch that gives power to the coil the regulator is not in the loop. Should it be?.
Not shore what else to check. Any further suggestion?

Thanks
KT

Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343795 Sun Jan 26 2020 11:25 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 768
F
Shop Shark
Any possibility that your distributor cap is too tall and the rotor is not making contact with the terminals? Have you checked your grounds to be sure they are clean and tight? A lot of bolters run the negative cable directly from the battery to the lower starter mounting bolt. Just some ideas.

Last edited by Forty9; Sun Jan 26 2020 11:26 PM. Reason: Spelling

Ed
Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343796 Sun Jan 26 2020 11:30 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 13
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
Thank you but yes the rotor is touching the cap. I have checked the grounds and everything is grounded correctly including the distributer.

KT

Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343803 Mon Jan 27 2020 12:04 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 345
7
Shop Shark
For a quick check on the ignition system you could run the starter on 12 volts separate from the rest of the electrical system, let the full 6 volts energize the ignition and let the 12 volts spin the starter.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343806 Mon Jan 27 2020 12:28 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,910
H
Boltergeist
2 volts at the coil primary input (from the ignition switch) is FAR too low. You should see a minimum of 4 to 4.5 volts during cranking, at the starter, and the coil. Have someone test the voltage at the battery posts (not the cable terminals) while you crank the engine. I'm going to hazard a guess you've got a dead cell in the battery. With very low cranking speed and low voltage, you're sending all the juice to the starter and virtually none to the ignition system. The compression will also be very low at slow cranking speed.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343818 Mon Jan 27 2020 01:19 AM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 13
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
The battery is new about 3 weeks old. I checked all 3 cells with a hydrometer today. All are good. We checked the battery volts at the Posts and got 6v today.
I read earlier that on a 6v there should be 00 positive cable. Although the cable I have is new from Classic Parts I do not think it’s a 00 cable and the specs do not say. Could it be that simple?

Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343821 Mon Jan 27 2020 01:39 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,977
5
Master Gabster
Yep. You need bigger cables.
Also, reading 6 volts on a 6 volt battery indicates a discharged battery. You should be reading around 6.5 volts or higher for a fully charges battery.

Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1343829 Mon Jan 27 2020 02:40 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,544
ace skiver
Both the positive and negative cable/strap should be at least 1 gauge, but 00 gauge is better/best for both.

Tractor Supply or a farm store or a welding supplier should have them. For the grounds, use a cable rather than a strap, if necessary.

Make sure all connections are clean/shiny. Use a conductive antioxidant copper-grease to minimize oxidation at connection points for battery cables and all ground straps.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE [1954advance-design.com] - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1344118 Wed Jan 29 2020 07:44 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,460
C
Shop Shark
Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold a half inch from a good ground. Remove cap and work points with a screwdriver, don't worry about precision just rattle them around. You should get a good blue spark or at least an orange spark with a blue streak in center. If you do then the starter draw is too great or cables insufficient. If you don't then try a jumper wire from the positive battery post straight to the + side of the coil; this eliminates all the electrical system and any possible problems in it.


Evan
Re: Yes. Still no spark
Kxt710 #1344725 Sun Feb 02 2020 09:59 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 13
K
Kxt710 Offline OP
New Guy
Hi. Here is where I am at. Testing the batter posts 6.24 testing battery to starter 6.24 to coil to points 6.24. I unplugged the plug wire to the coil and put my lead in 6.24 that dropped between 4.98 to 5.2 when trying to start. I did bypass the ignition with a jumper wire direct from battery to coil and the readings were the same as when hooked to to the ignition wires. I cleaned the points again and tried to rattle the with no spark at all. I also got a larger gage battery cable. I’m no expert so I appreciate advice. Thanks

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