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Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1342773 Sun Jan 19 2020 03:37 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,696
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
Can of worms....keep looking.

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1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
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1951 GMC 9300
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Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344125 Wed Jan 29 2020 11:22 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 335
G
Shop Shark
If you have more time than money what do you have to loose?Cant tell from the picture but if the windshield hasn’t moved I’d probably go for it. Still a cab swap is easier.




These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344137 Wed Jan 29 2020 02:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 540
K
Shop Shark
I think the top of the cab from the belt line is bolted with the exception of the lead covered joints on the window frame that should be the same on each truck ,and there would be a join some wear above the door latch .As for the portion of the cab below the belt line you could cut out a patch panel from the good truck as you said you have lots of time


kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344176 Wed Jan 29 2020 06:48 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,586
K
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The upper rear of the cab is bolted to the lower rear, but then the interior panels are spot welded on, covering the bolt heads. There are also some welds at the door lock pillar. It would be do-able if the inner panels are removed. The joints at the lower portion of the windshield are lapped and spot welded, then lead finished. Melt the lead out of those joints on both cabs, and use a spot weld cutter, which should get the alignment fairly close. Measure the windshield opening height prior to cutting and make that match when welding things back together.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344195 Wed Jan 29 2020 09:46 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 540
K
Shop Shark
Yes that sounds like a good plan of attack ,I would also keep the doors on and have them aligned before starting .I don’t think it would be to hard of a job but I am here on the couch


kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344197 Wed Jan 29 2020 09:49 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,586
K
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
It would be HARD. Trust me. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the cowl and floor on my cab and that's hard.
I agree with either keeping the doors on or welding in some significant bracing to keep things aligned. Doors off would allow more access to the interior for the work.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Cab Repair
Ottoparts #1344341 Thu Jan 30 2020 09:27 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 556
A
Shop Shark
I'm in a similar boat, not quite as extensive as yours. however, its isn't easy. although the metal is thick enough as i have learned that you can pound on it hard and not go too far. welding isn't as bad as the metal is thick enough to not blow through. cut a bad piece off your parts cab and take a jigsaw or sawzall and cut a slit in it. sand it to bare metal with a flappy wheel on a grinder and use that to set your welder as well as practice. get it fit with as little gap as you can, spot and dot skipping around to keep the heat down. Worst case scenario, you have some experience and need to buy a different cab. I still think you are better off buying a parts cab versus a repop cab. The repop panels i have bought aren't as right as i think they should be. I wouldn't imagine that an entire cab would be right either.

as an example, i bought new kick panel replacement patches, the originals had grooves that were angled but flat at the bottom "U" shaped... the patch panels were "V" grooves. a little thing, but still not right.

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