Ring in the new with some quality time with your old truck! A great time to tackle a winter project. If you do not have access to your truck, start your parts list for spring!
The days are officially getting longer now, you know!
You do not what any gasket or rubber at the U-bolts connection, it could crush and squeeze out over time leaving the connection loose and dangerous. The corosion you have was due to road salt over many years. Paint the area with your favorite rust preventing paint and torque the new U-bolts to spec and call it done.
Ok so I was thinking that it would eventually crush as well but just wanted to see if anyone has tried to figure something out for this issue. Cuz I didn't really wanna just put it back on in the same pitted spot. How thick is the walls of these axles? And I guess to try to keep the salt outta that area would it be ok to put some sort of gasket sealant on the clamp bracket so that the crevice between there is already filled with a material so new road salt doesn't get in my fresh paint job and corrode ? Kinda like a oil seal but a corrosive road salt seal in my case...
Did you clean up the bottom of the rear end good. It seems to me there is a plug at the bottom to drain it. If the center section is held on with bolts & not studs/nuts it might drain through the lower bolt. The electric shift uses 10W oil up to the level of the plug. Those shift a lot better then the vacuum shifters. George
Well there she is, oh black Betty "bam ba lam" whoa black Betty "bam ba lam" hope she's still rock steady!!! Haha my rear end overhaul remix. But never mind my last thought of the gasket sealant to seal off that junk collection pocket.... what if once I mount axle and tighten u bolts to spec, if I just slapped a glob of wheel bearing grease to fill in that area so water and road dust gets deflected by outer grease layer so it can't penetrate that pocket????? Other wise only way to keep stuff out would be to spray gunk out of there once a month and who has time for that!!! Lol
How do you drain oil from high low selector? Take off the triangle thing on bottom or just one of the 3 bolts holding that on? Or should I just drain it outta the fill hole by rotating the axle then rotate back up to fill? That's probably how I'm gonna do the axle lube...
If it were me, I'd remove the rear cover and make sure everything inside is nice and clean. It will also allow you to see how everything inside works. The three screws on the bottom hold the bottom bearing in place...
As for protecting the axle housing at the spring perches, I think your sand blasting and painting will provide many decades of added life to it. Remember, it took 60 years to get the way it is now and that's with no one caring for it! Don't overthink it...
MikeB, do you mean remove the selector and take the back cover off it or are you saying take the back cover off the diff? Because my axle housing is solid on the rear(right pic), only way to open black Betty is the front center gear section(left pic). But if you mean the back cover of the selector? then I misunderstood you before when you said that, I thought you meant the diff. I haven't actually inspected the selector to much I did notice its bolted to the center by 3 bolts and the bottom triangle thing.
And I'll try not to over think it. I'm just thinking I have it off if there is anything I need to do to it, now is the time cuz she ain't coming back off till it falls off lol. hints why I just gave it the fresh paint job, and sandblasted ALL the corroded metal off to just fresh pitted metal. The shackles took quite a bit of sand to blast, the axles metal that corroded off to the shackles was on there good!!! That little $40 craigslist sandblaster has come in handy with my old equipment restorations I've been diving into, it makes me feel good to bring crusty and rusty old stuff back to life.
MikeB, do you mean remove the selector and take the back cover off it or are you saying take the back cover off the diff? .
Sorry for the confusion...I'm talking about the "front" cover on the 2-speed selector motor...the one held on with 6 screws and the little tit on it. No need to remove the selector motor, just take that cover off and inspect everything inside.
The "triangle thing" is the selector shaft bottom bearing retainer.
As for the differential, in my earlier post I thought your rear had a removable cover, that's why I said to remove it. But, since you have a welded on cover there's either a plug in the bottom of the housing or the bottom bolts holding the pumpkin in are removed to drain the fluid out of the rear.
Ok glad we cleared the confusion. Haha. The diff lube draining out bottom bolts makes sense so I got that issue figured out now. So the front plate on the selector, that has the fill plug and the brand stamp comes off to drain oil?
That makes sense I guess but why did manufacturers forget how the oil pan was designed, with a drain plug Haha. Almost all daily driver trucks and SUVs have rear diffs and transmissions with no drain plug and only way to change fluid is to remove pan/plate destroy seals so you have to reseal just to change fluid what a retarded design flaw, causing ppl to neglect their fluid changes because of the hassle manufacturers created. I guess they figured ppl should be checking the internal components but come on how many of us remove our oil pans to check our pistons out while changing our oil.... we just assume by keeping up on our regular fluid changes the internals should be in good shape since were taking care of the internals lube when needed.