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Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340543 Sun Jan 05 2020 04:08 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 31
T
TBUChevy Offline
Wrench Fetcher
I think it is technically feasible to remove the box and leave the bed on the truck. I'm just not sure what advantage that provides.

You would have to remove the bolts that connect the front of the box to the front crossmember. You also have to remove the tailgate with the pivot mounts and the bolts that connect the rear of each side of the box to the rear crossmember.

You can leave the fenders connected to the sides. You would have to remove the connection between the fenders and the running boards and splash aprons.

The box itself would be pretty unstable because the only connections are between the front of the sides and the front panel. There would be no connection between the rear ends of the sides.


Rusty
Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: TBUChevy] #1340560 Sun Jan 05 2020 06:49 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,791
K
klhansen Offline
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by TBUChevy
I think it is technically feasible to remove the box and leave the bed on the truck. I'm just not sure what advantage that provides.

You would have to remove the bolts that connect the front of the box to the front crossmember. You also have to remove the tailgate with the pivot mounts and the bolts that connect the rear of each side of the box to the rear crossmember.

You can leave the fenders connected to the sides. You would have to remove the connection between the fenders and the running boards and splash aprons.

The box itself would be pretty unstable because the only connections are between the front of the sides and the front panel. There would be no connection between the rear ends of the sides.

About anything is possible, but why would anyone want to go to the trouble of basically disassembling the bed while on the truck. The whole front panel would need to be unbolted, all the bolts thru the wood on the angle strips on each side (from under the truck), and while you could unbolt the rear cross-sill from the bedsides, they are also welded together, so you'd have to grind the welds off. Just pull the whole thing off the frame and do whatever work is needed on the bed, reassemble it, and reinstall it on the frame.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340579 Sun Jan 05 2020 03:04 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 103
G
Greg Brown Offline
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by Prochevy
Hi Greg,

That's an awesome job! Did you do the rear axle, torque tube also?

My truck is stock. Stull has the 6v system in it..

Hi Carl, Can the bed be removed with the wood still attached?


I sandblasted and painted the top/side surfaces of everything I could see with the bed removed. With the differential, the grease build-up was so thick I had to scrape and wire wheel it first. I left the bottom surfaces for later, when I have the truck up on the hoist.

Regarding the bed wood, as has been said, there are probably many different ways to go about it. In my case, I discovered that all 6 bolts that should hold the bed to the frame were missing. Only the welds between the fender and running boards were holding the bed on, which had slid back a couple inches. Yes, I said welds because somebody in the past thought it was a good idea to weld the fenders to the running boards. Removing these welds is what initiated my entire project. As you can see in one of my pictures, using the engine hoist fully extended I was able to pick the bed right off the frame after removing the fenders.


Greg Brown
'49 Chevy 3100
Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340611 Sun Jan 05 2020 06:53 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,870
5
52Carl Offline
Master Gabster
I deleted my original post, as it made no sense to even me. I can only hope to someday be as cool and knowledgeable as Kevin L Hansen. smile
There are as many ways to disassemble/assemble an AD bed as there are AD trucks in existence. It all depends on what one is attempting to do as to which way to proceed.

Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340613 Sun Jan 05 2020 07:25 PM
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12
P
Prochevy Offline OP
New Guy
Thanks for discussion and tips on this!.

I will start with removing the bed with cherry picker and cleaning the frame, springs and whatever I can get to..brakes are ok but I will check them also while I have it apart.

I was also thinking of jacking the bed high enough or suspend it from the ceiling to drive the truck from under it.

Thank again!

Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340669 Mon Jan 06 2020 04:22 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,575
F
Fox Offline
Shop Shark
I you are borrowing the picker, I’d recommend building an overhead crane with some chain falls. I use mine ALL the time and I can do all my truck stuff by myself if needed. Cabs, engines, boxes, frames; it’s handy. I bring in eyes when fresh paint is involved though! It will make that box a breeze by yourself. 4 ratchet straps to the corners, 2 straps to a chain fall and up you go. But ensure it’s level as you lift (adjust if required), and you will be able to move that box with great precision, and yes, I rolled my truck under it and out from under it numerous times. I highly recommend this to you. My only regret? I should have built its base a little bit larger for stability purposes.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hsSEBfZ2E6TRYcw78


In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: Bed wood replacement [Re: Prochevy] #1340808 Tue Jan 07 2020 02:01 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 65
P
Pats58 Offline
Wrench Fetcher
I built a new bed on sawhorses. I duct taped 4x4s to the top of each sawhorse to make them wide enough to hold the bed. To square the bed, you must measure diagonally from left front corner to right rear corner and the other side. Keep adjusting until both measurements are within 1/8" or less. I duct taped 2x4s to the top of each frame rail, this minimizes difficulty of sliding the bed over the frame's rear axle hump. I walked the sawhorses to the back of the bed and lifted the bed onto the frame rail boards. I then pushed the bed forward on the frame rails. I then just picked up each side and pulled the board off the frame. It wasn't five minutes from sawhorses to dropping in the first bolt through bed and frame. All eight bed to frame bolts fell in perfectly thanks to measuring several times to square it up. Crude, but it worked and I'd do it again.

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