Some criticism aimed at all of us---myself included. We are so used to tapping computer keys we forget there are very detailed exploded drawings in old MOTORS's Manuals, (MOTOR'S and NOT Chiltons). This manual usually covered a seven year span so a 1982 to 1989 would have the drawing. We have a complete set from 1929 to the mid 70's and I ignore them until I get stuck on something; usually electrical or wiring. Something you might check out.
Yes indeed and I will be headed for a library later this week...thanks.
Your photo shows a yellow spring and the related hardware that retains the actuator and the shoe to the backing plate. The back side of the retainer has a sleeve that goes through the actuator and the brake shoe. It may be possible that the hole in the shoe is too small or it has some sort of coating on it and could be binding and causing the tang to not set on the star wheel. My reference materials show a straight spring on some and others a beehive type design. The book I have calls it a return spring. I don't think it matters much except both are considerably smaller and weaker springs that would apply less pressure. My suggestion would be to do a test and remove the return spring and see where the actuator sets relative to the star. Fred
Something I learned during my 50 years of working on this stuff. Don't throw anything away until you are finished and it works.
Last edited by rfs56trk; Tue Dec 31 2019 10:50 PM.
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
Good points and I need to place a very small amount of lube in that specific area for the reasons you mentioned. I will seek out some additional springs at the local parts house. I'm leaning heavily at this juncture to installing the one piece arm. I'm thinking the design engineers made this change for a reason. Time will tell.....
First things first- - - -replace the worn adjusters so the teeth will be the right height. Then adjust the pawl to contact the star wheel by doing a little careful twisting of the pawl so it makes firm contact with the star wheel. I was working on automobiles in the late 1960's when self-adjusting brakes started being used, and I taught automotive classes at the high school and Vo-Tech school level for about 35 years. A few hundred of my students learned to do that, and it works very well. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Hey Craig, According to my Motor manual, GM used at least 3 different types of adjusters on the drum brakes. They were all based on the same general principle, but there were slight differences in the parts. You can see the difference in the actuator lever in your exploded diagram and the actuator lever in Apache1's picture.
Using S10 parts on a Camaro axle or vice versa may be the issue here.
Apache1: did you positively identify your axle before buying your new parts?
I got tripped up thinking all along that it was out of a Camaro because my front clip is....until the brake issue was exposed.
Correction: Its a GM 8.5 axle housing with a posi-unit. I was barely able to interpret the very shallow ID stamping's on the passenger side axle tube. Note: The axle tube measures 3.00 on the OD. Where and how it got a set of S-10 brakes is anyone's guess.
See Pic: I have the (ears) @ 5 and 7
Btw, I've ordered the (1) piece adjusters (w/star wheels & springs) just like the ones in the exploded views that TUTS 59 provided....should be here Monday. I'm hoping they will just fall into place. That (2) piece unit is just hokie IMHO.
Apache1, glad to hear you got it worked out, another set of eyes always seems to help.
Years ago my Wife gave me one of Stacy David's project build books. It was a great addition to my 59', I record everything from part numbers to hand built modifications. I go back to it all the time to refresh my memory (or lack of).
Last edited by TUTS 59; Tue Jan 07 2020 10:40 PM.
Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8, Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)