Dave, you and me both! I haven't driven it (or even heard it run) in over two years, so I'm ready to again
Quick update with what I got done in class today (I'm afraid I forgot to get any pictures, though):
We re-installed the reverse idler and cluster gear, made some new gaskets, and started to get the side cover and shift arms back together. Unfortunately, one of the splined shift shafts chewed up the lip seal when we installed it, so I'll have to get a new one of those. I'm thinking next time I'll install the shift arm first and then work the seal down around it, as that should make it easier to get the seal over the splines on the shift shaft without damaging it.
I managed to find out that the seal I need for the governor is available through O'Reilly's, but it's a special order item, so they have to get it direct from National, and none of the staff who were there the last time I went in knew how to do that. So, hopefully that'll be on the way here soon. The main thing I'm waiting on right now is for the supplier to get back with me about the speedometer worm and first drive gear. I can't do much more reassembly until I get those two. I may try reaching out to some other suppliers to see if their response time is any better. Normally, I wouldn't be worried about it at all, but this is technically a class project and I feel like I am beginning to hold up the class. I suppose, worst case scenario, we can shove all the parts over to one end of the workbench and work on the next project until I get the parts.
My engine rebuilding instructor said he'd take a look at my engine tomorrow evening and tell me what he thinks, so hopefully I can get some more done to the engine this weekend.
Just wanted to share a tip on installing your seal over the splined shaft. I have used shrink tubing in the past with pretty good results, cut the tubing long enough so that it extends past the end of the shaft, enough to pull it out once you've installed the seal. I light coat of assembly lube helps too. Good luck.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Thu Oct 10 2019 12:34 PM.
Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!! Q:"What yah runnin" A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)
59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Well, It's been a crazy couple of weeks with school, so I haven't had time to write, but I have gotten a fair amount done on the truck.
I was finally able to track down a governor seal. An inquiry by O'Reilly's determined that the seal was no longer available from National (or anybody else), and none of the other parts places in town (including a specialty bearing and seal shop) had one. I got on the internet and managed to find an equipment company in North Carolina that still had two on the shelf. I went ahead and ordered both, and they came in in time for me to install one in class today. The first-reverse slider gear and speedometer worm gear are on the way, and when those come in I should be able to assemble the main parts of the transmission. I've got some assembly done already, the transmission output shaft, planetary gear set, and freewheeling clutch are in place in the overdrive adapter plate, along with the lockout shaft for the overdrive. The governor is also re-assembled and lubricated and the side cover is ready to reinstall, shift arms and all. I wasn't able to find any thin-walled tubing, heat-shrink or otherwise, that fit over the shift shaft, but we managed to get the shaft seal in safely by putting the shaft into the side cover first, carefully working the seal over the end of the shaft and past the splines with help from a little assembly oil, and then using a deep-well socket to drive it home.
After looking at the engine with my professor, it was determined that it would be best to do a full rebuild, so I borrowed a valve spring compressor and a cam bearing removal tool from the school and got the engine completely torn down, hot tanked, and ready for machining. The valve keepers were all pretty stuck, so I used a spark plug socket and a soft mallet to break them loose. Other than that, disassembly went smoothly. Unfortunately, my daily is starting to act up a little (a starter issue), and so I'm waiting to see how much that will cost before I send the engine to the machine shop. Worst case, I'll have to wait until the middle of next month when I get my next paycheck. I've also been working on the exhaust manifold a little. The exhaust studs were VERY rusted, so I tried using a torch to heat up the surrounding metal and then quenching the bolt with a wet rag, but I could't even get it to budge. Thankfully, I did not break it off, but when I wire wheeled around the stud to try and remove some of the scale to see if that would help, I discovered several small cracks in the manifold, so I think I'm just going to replace it. They shouldn't be too hard to find.
I'm a little short on pictures this time around, I'll try and be better about remembering to take more in the future.
Well, the transmission's together! The first/reverse and speedometer worm gears came in a while ago, as did an NOS governor drive gear (in the original box, which is kinda cool) I found on eBay, since none of the transmission places I talked to had one in stock. Assembly went pretty smoothly, or at least it did after I got the overdrive output shaft bearing turned the right way 'round, which only cost me a little time an an 88-cent Woodruff key. The two big gears arrived clean and ready to install, and all the governor gear needed was to have the pilot polished with some emery cloth on a lathe (as did the pilot on the transmission input shaft). All it needs now is the last case bolt (none of the "originals" matched, and several of them had threads that were pretty chewed up, so I decided to just replace all of them), and a plastic speedometer gear compatible with both the overdrive unit and my truck's speedometer. Tractor Supply was the only place in town that had the appropriate bolt in the correct size, but I cleaned out their supply when I bought the first four, and I've been waiting on them to get their hardware restocked ever since. No big deal, that bolt would be easy enough to install even if the transmission was in the truck. As soon as the paint class gets done practicing on it, it'll be ready to install (although I think it may be a while before I'm ready for that).
I got paid last Friday, and a new starter drive fixed my other truck's starting issue, so I should be able to take the engine to the machine shop here soon. The block, head, bellhousing, and associated covers have all been hot-tanked and cleaned, but that's as far as I've gotten with it. I want to check the head, deck, and line bore for true-ness before I take it in, so that I can get a better idea of how much I'll be spending, but I do know the crank needs ground and polished, the cylinders bored and honed, and the flywheel surfaced. I'm also having them fit the new pistons and bearings.
It's the time of year when the deadlines for all the big assignments, research papers, presentations, book reviews, etc., are bearing down on me in close succession, so I haven't had time to do much else with the truck. Things should slow down a little after this week, though.
Next January, I'm taking another sheetmetal class, and it sounds like I'll be able to bring my own stuff in to work on for class credit, so hopefully I'll knock a big chunk out of the bodywork then.
Hello all, hope everyone had a merry Christmas and is off to a good start in the new year.
Not much happened after my last post, other than the transmission getting painted, since I was mainly waiting on being able to take the engine to the machine shop. However, I'm back in Kansas now, and back to work. The engine should be going in this week, and today was the first day of the three-week sheetmetal class, so I've gotten the body work started.
I am going to bring the entire truck into class in the next day or two (or what there is of it, meaning the cab and chassis), but I need to get some tie-rod ends put on it before I can move it very far. I ordered them over break and had them shipped out here, but the mailroom hours are quite limited, so I wasn't able to pick them up today. Meanwhile, I'm keeping myself occupied working with the little bits and pieces that aren't mounted to the truck. Today I worked on the grille, or more specifically, a rather large kink in the center of the lower grill bar. There are also a couple of other dings, but this was by far the worst, and the fact that it is over the top of the "R" in "CHEVROLET" isn't making things any easier. I made some pretty good progress, though. The first thing I did was to use a short piece of bar stock with a slot of the proper depth cut into the end to carefully flatten out some of the flange along the bottom of the grill. This was done to make it easier to take a wire wheel to the effected area and to facilitate the use of a jaw shrinker to restore some of the curvature to the lower grill bar. After that was done, a variety of tools were used to try and work out what remained of the dent. It's not done yet, but it's way better than it was. I took too many pictures to attach directly, so here's a link to a Google Photos album:
After I get the grill done, the next order of business is the driver's door, and then the cab. The door is pretty well crunched, as well as being rusted out and bondo-ed over, although everything above the belt-line is in decent shape. The plan is to fabricate a new outer door skin to replace everything up to slightly below said belt-line (to make the weld easier to finish), and replace the door bottom with a repro patch panel (also languishing in the school's mailroom). The cab has two areas of concern. The easy one is the passenger side rocker, and outer floorboard area. I think I can fabricate the section of floor easily enough, and I lucked into an NOS rocker panel which I will use to replace what's left of the original. The tricky part is the header panel above the windshield. I've been given several suggestions as to how to go about patching it, including using a lap joint, plug welds and filler, but at the moment I'm leaning toward the more tedious method involving drilling out all the spot welds holding the outer roof skin giving me access to the backside of the header panel to make it easier to finish a TIG weld. I had toyed with the idea of replacing the entire inner skin just by drilling and re-welding spotwelds, but, after doing a sort of practice run by removing the good inner skin from an otherwise almost useless cab, I decided that wasn't going to work. If I do it this way, I know I'll have to be careful not to distort the windshield opening, but it does have the added benefit of allowing me to take some preventative measures with the inside of the cab roof. I'm open to suggestions.
Besides these two big issues, there's also a bunch of smaller, less intimidating projects which I will do in class if I somehow finish these, and on my own time if I don't. These mostly involve the passenger door, bed, rear fenders, and front clip (which is still back home, so I won't be getting to that until summer regardless). Here's some pictures of the rust issue that I have out here with me:
On a side note, I recently discovered that my wheels are not the correct ones. As I understand it, the correct set should have riveted tabs for holding the hubcaps on. On the wheels I have, the hubcaps are retained by three tabs stamped into the wheel itself. I don't have a picture of my wheels, but good ol' Google images gave me a picture of a set that looks to be identical. They are stamped "GM", but I have no idea what they came off of, which leaves me wondering what options I have for hubcaps since I really don't want to clean up and paint another set of rims. When I bought the truck, it had three beat-up aluminum hubcaps, which I have also included a picture of the design of. I'd like to find something fairly close to what the truck would have had originally, and they would have to be white. If any one knows of a style that they think might work, I'd be most appreciative.
That's all for now, but I should have an update every day or two for as long as this sheetmetal class runs.
Last time, I said I'd try to do a post every other day or so... so much for the best laid plans of mice and men.
Anyhow, a great deal of progress has been made. I got the major issues pretty well worked out of the grill, but it still needs a little tweaking a few smaller dents worked out. While using a jaw shrinker to try and get the profile right on the lower bar, cracks began developing along the edge of a particularly rust-thinned section, necessitating a patch. The patch is done, and the only thing I have left to do with that section of the grill is to go back to the shrinker and finish what I started.
However, I've set that aside for now so that I can move onto bigger issues. My tie rods came in and I got them installed (I had a great deal of trouble trying to get the clamps tight enough to keep the sleeves from rotating, and they'll need a little work before I actually take the thing out on the road, but that will be a while), so I was able to push the truck over to the sheetmetal lab. I have since commenced work on the driver's door. Upon closer inspection, it was apparent that the door had been crunched and then heavily bondoed over (a layer over the entire lower half of the door up to 1/4" thick in places) at some point in its life, and then smacked into again. I scraped off some of the bondo to see how far up the door the damage went, and then used a small sledge hammer to get the door back to approximately it's original shape (got it to close for the first time since I've owned the truck ). I then made a new outer skin with a power hammer and a plastic 55-gallon drum (laid on its side and used as a bending die). I just finished bending up the flanges around the edges today, and hope to start welding tomorrow. I trimmed away the old skin (got it close with a cutoff wheel and then trimmed the last little bit with a pair of aviation snips), but left a couple of tabs in place for clecos that will help hold the skin in place when I go to weld it. The plan is to put down enough tacks to hold the panel in place, and then remove the clecos and trim away the tabs.
I brought the engine block, connecting rods, and flywheel into the machine shop towards the end of last week, and they're now done, so I'm planning on picking them up tomorrow.
Well, that's all for now, but here's some pictures:
That grill photo is comical to me at least.(not in anyway related to you or your repair!) I had two of em with perfect headlight buckets, and the squares in the grip were bent on the both of em! We have a one year only truck so I feel your pain when searching for parts. I have an old Army buddy buried in Culpepper . I may take a ride up that away in the fall (I spend the summer in Maine) with my '63 and see my buddy Mac, and maybe meet up with you if you ain't busy. I'm close to Galax, VA so it ain't really that far. I'm getting older and better start doing all these things I've told myself I'm gonna do one day. One day is getting shorter. Pete
1963 Chevy C-10 Fleetside 2010 Chevy HHR SS GONE, NOT FORGETTEN 2003 GMC Z71 2016 Silverado High Country 2500 Diesel 2012 Chevy Camero SS Convertible 2012 Indian Chief Vintage serial #002 motorcycle 2016 Indian Chief Roadmaster