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Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335689 Fri Nov 29 2019 01:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
The headlight housings were original to the truck. I cleaned and painted them so they look new. What I did replace were the rings that hold the headlight bulbs into the inner buckets and the bezels. Those I got from Classic Parts

I have not seen those housing for sale but you can post that you are looking for them in the “Truck Parts Wanted” forum in Stovebolt.

Last edited by Phak1; Fri Nov 29 2019 02:16 AM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335891 Sat Nov 30 2019 08:28 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
5/16/19: In the interest of safety, after reading several post on Stovebolt Forums, I decided to install a fusible link wire in the 10 ga. wire that goes from the starter hot lead on the solenoid starter switch to the negative side of the ammeter. I bought a 14 ga fusible link wire that had a 3/8” ring terminal already installed. That left one “Western Union Splice” as suggested by a fellow “bolter”, to make the connection. I practiced first on some scrap 10 ga and the end of the fusible link wire that was too long. I didn’t get anywhere near 10 wraps on each side as suggested but I do believe it is a sound connection.

Attached Files
926DA638-FBD5-4C0C-8C44-CD9E7F8593E5.jpeg (163.89 KB, 310 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Sat Nov 30 2019 10:00 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335893 Sat Nov 30 2019 08:47 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,502
J
Shop Shark
Phak1,

Do you have solenoid or foot operated switch?

Checked attached pic.

xfiles

Attached Files
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335901 Sat Nov 30 2019 09:28 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
I have a foot operated switch. I see the confusion. Its not really a solenoid that is mounted on the starter but a switch.

Attached Files
Last edited by Phak1; Sat Nov 30 2019 10:01 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335905 Sat Nov 30 2019 10:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,502
J
Shop Shark
Ok, Where are the wires head to from the switch?
One goes to battery, one goes to ammeter, 3rd wire goes to where?

Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335906 Sat Nov 30 2019 10:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
The third wire was a quick and easy way of supplying power to the horn relay.

Attached Files
6B7B6CFA-162D-4C52-B5D8-43AD1A8E937B.jpeg (209.81 KB, 289 downloads)

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1335907 Sat Nov 30 2019 10:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,502
J
Shop Shark
Got it,
Pretty slick

Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1337393 Thu Dec 12 2019 02:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
5/27/19: I wanted a temporary bed to drive around with this summer because the existing bed needs a total rebuild including the bed front sheet metal, cross supports and blocking, not to mention all new wood, so I opted to wait until I do the frame off. I picked up a sheet 5/8” exterior plywood and a couple dozen 1/4”x2” carriage bolts. The 5/8” was chosen because none of the supports were in their correct positions so I adapted it the best I could to fit without spending too much money on a temporary bed. The plan was to center the plywood in the 50” wide bed and fill in the gaps with some custom moulding I’d make with a pressure treated 5/4x6. I fit the plywood, drilled 1/4” holes for the carriage bolts utilizing the existing holes in the cross beams, drilled additional holes in an existing 1x1x1/8” angle iron that is connected to the front bed panel (due to the bottom of the panel being rusted out), and another set in the rear cross brace (both going to be replaced). I then coated the top and bottom with some left over stain from a previous house project that just happened to match.

The next day after the stain had dried, I installed the plywood in the bed. All went according to plan but was a few carriage bolts short. The last few days have been brutally hot with temperatures near 100 degrees with high humidity, so any laborious work must be done in the morning or the evening, when it cools a bit. I took the afternoon off to go to the not so local “Blue” big box store (a 45 minute drive), to procure the missing carriage bolts and some caulking to fill any gaps prior to the final coat of stain. When I got back it had cooled quite a bit so using my portable table saw, cut up the 5/4x6 PT board to fit the gaps. After several cuts and an equal amount of trial fittings, the moldings were done. Some light sanding, a coat of stain, another day to dry and the moulding would be ready to install.

I installed them using construction adhesive. I didn’t want to add any more holes to the bed sides then necessary, so I opted to glue them in. After letting the adhesive set for awhile, I taped off the sides of the bed and caulked the gaps. While I waited for the paintable silicone caulk dry enough to stain, I turned my attention to installing the missing carriage bolts.

I previously procured some D-Rings from Amazon to install in the bed to be able to lash some items down that I may carry in the future. I installed them using the four corner carriage bolts.

I applied the second coat of stain to the molding and touched up any marks I made during installation. The bed, although temporary and not original, looks good and is now functional.

Attached Files
Last edited by Phak1; Thu Dec 12 2019 02:17 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1337619 Sat Dec 14 2019 02:06 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 739
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Jack of all Trades, Master of None
5/29/19: I installed my headlight relays that I bought on eBay, (4) 60 amp relays with pigtails for $13 (I only used two). I tapped power and a ground from the alternator and I decided not to hide the relays for a few reasons. First I didn’t like the idea of the relays being exposed to the rain they would receive in front of the radiator core and figured they would be better protected on the inner fender. Second, I wanted to keep the pigtails as short as possible without adding another splice, and finally, I plan on doing a full frame restoration after I work out all of my mechanical issues to include a new harness complete with a fuse box so I don’t know where they will be permanently located.

The existing 6014 bulbs are much brighter and I feel allot better not exposing my brand new $50 headlight switch to the higher amperage, not to mention eliminating the high amperage under the dash. I added an inline 40 amp fuse at the alternator. Safer and brighter, all good! Another success!

Attached Files
6547F60E-342F-48D7-8F5B-6DCBDA46824F.jpeg (258.97 KB, 219 downloads)

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: 1952’ Chevrolet 3100 Project
Phak1 #1337624 Sat Dec 14 2019 03:13 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,143
ace skiver
Phil, congratulations on the "relay-success".

I assume the relay provides both a hot/power lead and a ground lead (most relays provide both)?

If so, I bet the relay solved your dimness problem by providing a good/clean ground. Many years of oxidation/rusting/painting decreases/eliminates the good/original ground through the chassis and sheet-metal connections/grounding. Around 1955-2nd/1956 (I think), a ground wire was added/included in all lighting circuits.

Your solution is the best/easiest solution on our old trucks, unless we are doing a total restoration, where-in we can clean-up/shine-up and "protect" with antioxidant goop on all of the body/metal connections/paths from a good ground to the light housing-screws.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
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