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update, got a first coat of Maroon on the Escutcheon assembly plastic body, i used maroon because it's a bright lovely color but in line with the spirit of the original purple plastic color used for knobs in these old trucks. painting this plastic allows me to color match it to the control bushings behind the knobs, it protects the plastic from further UV damage, and covers up existing damage allowing me to reuse the original. i also painted a reproduction escutcheon to see if i like that one more when i'm doing the final fit.
The steel housing is ready for paint, i'm going to paint it inside and out, originally it was not painted inside. I masked off a few places where i want metal to metal contact with the guts later on. if i had a better housing i would not use this one, it's in bad shape, i suspect it was left outdoors for decades. i cleaned it up, straightened it up and fixed some of the damage on it the best i could, hopefully it will turn out well. -s
hi everyone, here is an update on my radio project, now that fall outdoor activities have ended i can resume working on my inside stuff.
i painted the housing Rust-Oleum Brown (210880 Hammered Metal Finish), i was gonna use the copper hammered finish but it seemed a bit too bright this brown looks very satisfactory for me. photos attached showing the masked areas and how it turned out, paint really does hid the many imperfections
i may wait to glue on the reproduction decals until i'm ready for final assembly that way I don't damage them when i invariably have to take something apart many times to make assembly corrections.
All the misc. riveted bits go into the chassis at this stage, I don't want to be driving rivets home when there are electrical parts or transformers installed later on.
Cleaned up the excess zinc plating on the holes and edges of the chassis. The vibrator clamp will be replaced as it has broken tabs. The new one will be riveted with tiny steel rivets in place of the spot welds in addition to the socket rivets which go through the clamp, chassis and socket. I would not recommend dip galvanizing, it's a pain and not original. It would be better to spend more time getting the electroplating to work out as it was originally done, but getting the inside corners to plate is difficult. I will live with this learning experience for now on this radio.
I riveted the tube sockets back in using my handy small engine valve clamped into my table top vise. Some insulating papers were not the best shape, i found a very similar cardboard at my local junk store in San Jose Cali. If anyone is near the bay area, check out Excess Solutions, you will spend a whole day rummaging around
One of the wires had broken off the audio transformer, the remaining were not looking good. Carefully took the transformer apart to solder intermediate 30 gauge wires onto the tiny input side windings, these wires are in turn soldered to the larger wires that exit the transformer.
I used friction tape to wrap the transformer, it can be locked in place by applying cyanoacrylate to the tape ends. Once installed onto the chassis it is soldered in place on it's folding tabs. There are only 3 wires on the audio transformer because one side of output is tied to chassis ground. The speaker plug will return speaker current back to chassis ground at the speaker plug.
While soldering big stuff with the propane torch I also installed the triple electrolytic capacitor. The capacitor body is the common terminal of the electrolytic. At lease one mounting tab must be soldered to the chassis to ensure a good connection to ground. I often use tinfoil as a heat shield when soldering this way, the torch will quickly burn things or cause discolorations if not contained.
The power transformer also gets one edge soldered to the main chassis. The center tap of the input side of the power transformer is tied to chassis ground internally; this soldering is necessary to ensure the best performance from the power stage.
update Without burning my fingers... i have managed to install all the main chassis components. It's starting to look like a radio again!
Put fresh wire on the I.F. transformers, the old wire was faded and very oxidized internally. The painters tape is to protect the parts during assembly. I used colorful red shrink tube on the component leads in place of the original black cloth tubing which has all gone hard, i like the new red look, if someone prefers black that's easy too.
Most of the new resistors are now metal film type which are more stable and lower noise than the original carbon composites; these are likely overkill for this application, but the absolute price difference is not significant so why not splurge (pennies) on better parts right?
The large circuit capacitors are mostly PP or PET types that I got at the local junk store. As long as they have the correct value and sufficient voltage ratings that's all that matters for the most part. All trimmer mica caps are original, they will outlive modern civilization. I did disassemble some partially to clean them, but that was not electrically necessary, cosmetic only.
A sharp eye will notice i added a capacitor across the vibrator pins and also two on the main power input under the power transformer. The vibrator capacitor will help save the points inside the vibrator, this capacitor is standard on the next generation radios that came after this design. The bulk capacitors are to help with incoming noise from the vehicle. These locations likely would have had a capacitor when the radio was designed, and then they were omitted along with other parts we will never know about in order to reduce cost. -s