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Can anyone tell me the correct length for the dipstick to be used in a 235 straight 6? The guys at the restoration shop that did our restoration think mine is incorrect and a previous owner may have installed the wrong one.
They put 5 quarts of oil in the crankcase plus an extra quart for the external oil filter and the oil level on the dipstick says I need to add oil.
Thanks,
John in Raleigh, NC enjoying driving our restored '58
Just get a dipstick that is way too long (van) and run it in till it hits the bottom of the pan. The distance from the top of the tube to the washer/cup on the dipstick is how much that needs to be removed (+ 1/4"). Put dipstick in and mark where the 5 + 1 oil level is at and you have a dipstick that is exactly correct for YOUR engine.
You can do the same thing with the dipstick you have. If you know it has the correct amount of oil in it, mark that level as the full mark. The next time you change oil stop one quart short and mark that as the Add mark. Also, if you use the view number as an indicator of people willing to help you're making a mistake. Those viewing may not have an answer to help you or may have the same problem and are looking for a solution as well. Not every one of our registered users is an expert in every field.
Last edited by Tiny; Thu Nov 14 2019 12:56 PM.
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Not every one of our registered users is an expert in every field. True: I'd get an "F" in paint, interior, brakes, axle, and suspension; perhaps a "B" in engine.
I'm only going to post if I think I have something to add (and not if the answers already given are helpful).
1. Remove the oil pan and place it on a workbench. 2. Level the pan flanges, front to back and side to side. 3. Pour 4 Qts. of oil or any other liquid into the pan. 4. Measure the distance from the pan flange to the surface of the liquid. 5. Insert the dipstick into the tube and measure the same vertical distance from the pan rail as step #4. 6. Mark the dipstick "Full" at the above distance. 7. Mark the dipstick "Add" 3/4" below the "full" line.
The oil filter canister will retain approximately 1/2 quart with the engine stopped so the oil level with 5 quarts onboard will read slightly above full after the engine sits idle for several hours. The dipstick will be accurate after about 10 minutes' run time and a shutdown. Jerry
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Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
What would the experts, or anyone else for that matter, suggest for an engine which came from the factory with no dipstick whatsoever? Not build under the bow tie or gmc banner, but American made.
I am not an expert - take my suggestion with less than a grain of salt.
What make, year, size engine (for what size/make truck)? Is this a new/unused engine (the procedure below would be slightly different in each case)?
Here is my simple-minded suggestion:
Find out the oil capacity/fill specs for that engine - how much oil it needs for an oil change w/wo oil filter (depending on what your engine has). Ask here, if you cannot find the specs).
Empty the engine-oil (and replace the filter).
Add the specified qts of oil. Wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Start the engine and run it until it warms up. Stop the engine, and, wait 5 minutes. Remove dipstick and clean/wipe it. Put the dipstick back, and then remove it. Mark the level/location of the oil on the dipstick.
Go-ahead: make fun of me - deride me - feel sorry for me (and my family) if my simple-minded suggestion it ridiculous.
Then you trust the computer and it's prompts that oil is low or it's time to change it. That's what I do with newer vehicles. 100's of thousands of miles and no problems. Now that said, ours do have dip sticks and I do keep a eye on levels. Fact is I can't remember the last time I had to add oil (on a newer vehicle) and the change prompt usually happens from the 7 to 8k mark.
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear 1970 340 Duster 1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain) 1951 Farmall Super A
I added 6 quarts oil to my new 261 with stock filter. I ran it to seat the cam shaft and let it sit.
I then filed a little notch on the dipstick of unknown origin at the oil line. I keep an eye on that notch but I use very, very little oil between my Spring and Fall changes. I haven't worried about an "Add Oil" mark.
27 Years of Daily Driving. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I am not an expert - take my suggestion with less than a grain of salt.
What make, year, size engine (for what size/make truck)? Is this a new/unused engine (the procedure below would be slightly different in each case)?
Here is my simple-minded suggestion:
Find out the oil capacity/fill specs for that engine - how much oil it needs for an oil change w/wo oil filter (depending on what your engine has). Ask here, if you cannot find the specs).
Empty the engine-oil (and replace the filter).
Add the specified qts of oil. Wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Start the engine and run it until it warms up. Stop the engine, and, wait 5 minutes. Remove dipstick and clean/wipe it. Put the dipstick back, and then remove it. Mark the level/location of the oil on the dipstick.
Go-ahead: make fun of me - deride me - feel sorry for me (and my family) if my simple-minded suggestion it ridiculous.
follow the instructions as mentioned but instead of new marks on dipstick, trim the tube until dipstick original marking is correct.
Depending on the pan shape, a slight angle (floor not flat, one side jacked up) may move the oil level quite a bit. The height of the oil is not linear to the number of quarts except by accident; the 1st quart in an empty pan move the level up sharply, the last quart does not.
put the truck on a flat surface, drain oil, pour in exactly 4 quarts (1 quart low) pull out your new home made dipstick, and stamp the low oil mark add the last quart to the engine, insert dipstick to find and stamp the full oil mark
if you don't like how your first attempt worked out, you can make a second one with the measurements the second one usually looks much better because of practice -stan
Took me awhile to find this... my filing system leaves a bit to be desired. I agree with all the good suggestions about marking your own dipstick, but this is a good reference from the Master Parts book, as well - see the image:
This is also helpful, but I have a question. When I go down the column on the left of the page and stop at 51-6, I see 'ALL (6 cyl) ….., there are no dimensions provided. So, now what?
John, That is one of the peculiarities of the parts books. You go down to the next entry that has the dimensions and parts number provided, and that is what you need for that particular series of engines.
For example: If I was looking for my 1950 COE, I go to the line that says 40-55 COE. There is no information across the page so I go down to the line that says 47-55 D-D (1st Ser..) and use that information.
Is that clear?
Thanks for the link to this page. I printed it off because it is easy to see how confusing it can get, especially when you have replacement engines in a truck. Who knows, other than changing the oil and putting the proper amount of oil in it, whether the dipstick is the correct length.
John, Kent explained it... the parts books are read by including the lines below if there is no entry where you find your model/year, since it means those models use the same part. Read down and use the next full line data.
After considerable evaluation of my situation, I have decided to start over. Will order and install a new dipstick and tube. Will also measure twice before cutting and installing a new dipstick tube.
Thanks to all that offered opinions, advice and solutions.
I know exactly what you are saying. I look at other posts as well and do not always have sage advice to offer. It is a learning experience to see what others are having issues with.
