The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Work those trucks!




Share what you're up to this summer!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
1 registered members (1 invisible), 397 guests, and 3 spiders.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums48
Topics116,157
Posts927,053
Members42,567
Most Online940
Apr 5th, 2017
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Three point Seat Belt Routing #1331703 Tue Oct 29 2019 03:12 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 331
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Shop Shark
I just bought three point seat belts and have studied several post on installing them in a 5 window AD truck. I understand how to install all of the anchor points but can’t seem to figure how the belts that have the buckle are routed. I’ve posted a picture of my seat frame with an arrow pointing to the problem area.

If it was routed in front of the frame, it would end up turning back over the sharp edge to get around the back of the bottom seat cushion. In an accident, it would put allot of pressure on the seat bottom surely bending the two front clips holding the seat in place, causing the seat to dislodge sliding forward. The front edge of the frame is sharp and could cut the belt. Not a good situation.

Routing it behind the frame seems to be a better option but that too seems to have some routing issues too. The sharp edge on the back of the frame could also cut the belt.

The other thought I had was how does moving the seat affect the routing?

I have never installed these belts before and are looking to those that have.

Attached Files
BF52EB29-5C8B-4DC0-90EF-84C1BF874B15.jpeg (177.91 KB, 152 downloads)

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100 w/‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1331712 Tue Oct 29 2019 04:02 AM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 702
G
Gord&Fran Offline
Shop Shark
I cut rectangular holes big enough for the buckle to go through in the area where your arrow points. I got this idea from someone else on this forum who posted pictures of his installation but I believe he installed just the lap belt. That's OK as in this area, the lap belts and the three point belts are similar. Should be able to find the pictures using the search function.


Gord
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1331714 Tue Oct 29 2019 04:11 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,515
K
klhansen Offline
Shop Shark
I'd suggest getting some steel tubing, split it along one side and fit it over the sheet metal to make a smoother opening. That would reduce the possibility that the raw sheet metal edges would cut the belt.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1332383 Sun Nov 03 2019 04:24 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,526
F
Fox Offline
Shop Shark
I used Deve’s tech tip. It worked well for me on my AD. I only have a 3 window though.


In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1332395 Sun Nov 03 2019 12:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,758
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist

Last edited by tclederman; Sun Nov 03 2019 12:32 PM.

Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1332400 Sun Nov 03 2019 01:21 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 703
HandyAndy Offline
Shop Shark
I used Grigg's approach as detailed below. It worked great and the grandkids love to ride in Grandpy's '47!

Originally Posted by Grigg
Now seat belts. This project turned out to be really quick and easy; much to my surprise after thinking about it and reading other tales and how to's on seat belt installs.

First I removed the seats and seat frame which revealed a very broken mount on the drivers side and some broken spot welds on the seat frame.
PICTURE 2 cracket seat mount
Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture after, but imagine that as a spider web of welds and a bit of new metal.
Center seat brace was much easier, drill out failed spot welds and plug weld to repair.
PICTURE 3 seat brace before
PICTURE 4 seat brace after

These are the belts I ordered pictured complete with invoice and part numbers. They all worked out fine however I'd get the fixed end longer next time though 20" does work OK (you'll see why later).
PICTURE 5 seat belts and invoice

Where to mount them in the center?
I sat in the seat and measured/estimated that my hip was 5" from center as I'd normally sit/drive. So I installed the center anchors 10" apart and centered in the cab. They're as close to the riser as the hardware allows, 5/8".
PICTURE 6 center seat belt anchor holes

This is the only tricky part where a little head scratching comes in. If you now pass those seat belt straps up through the seat they have to take a pretty circuitous rout to get out between the cushions. Ideally the seat belt straps are straight from anchor to your lap however this is not possible in an AD truck without modification.
Here's the modification, two slots in the seat frame back for them to exit from.
PICTURE 7 belt slot layout
PICTURE 8 belt slot cutting
PICTURE 9 belt slot deburing/rounding
As you can see again 10" on center. Slots are 2.5" wide, 1/2" tall and centered about 5/8" down on the seat frame. Real easy to cut by first drilling the end holes and connect with jigsaw.
Did a good job softening the edges with file, deburing tool, and flossing with sand paper. I'll look into using a length of very small rubber hose split and fit over the sheetmetal to make a sort of grommet to further soften the edge.
PICTURE 10 center belts installed.

The outside anchors for the retractors turned out to be exceptionally easy. I would use these same locations (or nearly so) and method for plain non retractable lap belts and also for shoulder belts. Figured this out by just holding the retractor about where it made good sense, allowed straight line to hips, and where it fit and where anchor plate/nut under the cab would fit.
These ended up being 3-5/8" back from the seat riser and at that point about 2-1/8" in from the radius edge of the cab floor. Drilled a small pilot hole from the top and then under the cab to drill/enlarge to full size, 7/16".
PICTURE 11 outside belt hole locations
PICTURE 12 approx. angle/assembly of retractor and angle bracket.
PICTURE 13 Installed, same on other side.

This whole seat belt project including the weld repairs to my seat frame and mount only took a couple hours from removal to reinstalling the seats including head scratching and figuring out the plan. One of the only times I've ever completed a project in less time than I estimated.
Installing seat belts can be done without welding and without removing the gas tank!
The 20" center belts are shown at full extension, if you'd like the buckle to be at your front instead of your side then they'd need to be longer. The retractable part is plenty long to reach either way.
PICTURE 14 seat belts done
PICTURE 15 seat belt from the side


Next, prepping for the 4-5 hour drive to the Stovebolt Homecoming in a couple weeks. Homecoming Info

Grigg


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3100
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"A Jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1332402 Sun Nov 03 2019 01:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,758
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
Thank, Andy & Grigg

Does this work with 3-window and v5 window cabs?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1332407 Sun Nov 03 2019 02:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 703
HandyAndy Offline
Shop Shark
I believe so, since it really addresses lap style belts. Grigg does mention in the text that the hole placement would also work for the shoulder belt (three-point style). I opted for lap belts because I didn't like the location of the should belt/anchor in my five window cab. It would have been too high for me.


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3100
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"A Jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1333066 Sat Nov 09 2019 02:26 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 331
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Shop Shark
I completed the installation of my 3 point seat belts. I had not seen Griggs post prior to me cutting the slots to route the belts thru the seat frame. I cut mine in the same location but longer to accommodate an additional lap belt for a middle passenger. When I cut the rectangular holes, I slotted them and folded them over so I didn’t leave the sharp edge.

I also followed Deve’s location for the retractors but with my gas tank still installed I opted to bolt the L bracket both thru the floor and the seat riser instead of welding it in. I located the brackets on the pillar a bit higher so it wouldn’t interfere with the windless weatherstripping. I also added one pop rivet under the bolt hole to keep it in place. This rivet is hidden by the d-ring and belt. The position seems good to me, not too low or high.

Since I was adding a third belt, I opted to fabricate my own L brackets from 3x3x1/4” angle, to accommodate two belts. These were attached with oversized 1/4” steel plates thru the cab floor which I drilled and tapped for 7/16-20.

I also increased the size of the bolts that attach the seat frame to the adjusters to 3/8” grade 8 and added some weld to the adjuster brackets where spot welds were holding the assembly together.

Attached Files
Last edited by Phak1; Sat Nov 09 2019 02:33 AM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100 w/‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: Three point Seat Belt Routing [Re: Phak1] #1333068 Sat Nov 09 2019 02:35 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 331
P
Phak1 Offline OP
Shop Shark
Additional pictures:The forth picture is the support plate that is under the cab for the retractors. These are 1-1/2” flat bar, 1/4” x 4” and is just above the cab mount. These were also tapped for 7/16-20.

Attached Files
Last edited by Phak1; Sat Nov 09 2019 02:42 AM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100 w/‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator

Moderated by  Rusty46 

Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.3