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Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1329479 Thu Oct 10 2019 11:18 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher

Hello again;

Thanks for checking in and following along. I totally forgot to take some pictures of the progress this last round. I tacked in the final pieces for the running boards and then spent a few hours welding out the bigger sections. This was in preparation to remove the boards to cut and weld in the final pieces. I wanted to strengthen the boards as much as possible so nothing moves when I remove them from the truck. The work benches were in use with paying customer work, that and there was some interesting shop "drama" going on. Though I was not involved, I figured making myself scarce until the dust settled was a prudent course of action lest I be caught out as collateral damage!

On another note, a neighbor was junking a Roto-tiller, so I scooped that and with the help of my son we were able to get it running. I am not sure what we will do with it, as I do not need a tiller...
I was mostly just curious to see how much work it would need to get running. Turns out a good carb clean and some fresh gas was all that was needed.

More to come soon!

Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1331168 Fri Oct 25 2019 02:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hello Again;

This week was a very rewarding week as I was able to complete the running board extensions. Yes, I remembered to take pictures, you will find the usual pictorial update attached.
To complete the extensions I needed to cut in the cab transitions and then complete the weld out of the entire running board. I have not been keeping track of my hours this past few months but I am estimating that the extension work took me about 80 hours total to complete. A big investment of time for sure, but they are now "one of a kind", steel and strong as well so I will not have to be afraid of actually using them. They will be finished gloss black same as the fenders and I am thinking of using spray on truck box liner to make a step pad rather than purchasing the common aluminium style. My reasoning is that; 1. I will not have to drill holes for the pads and 2. The liner will adhere/seal to the board and not allow water/crud to migrate under and start corrosion.

Anyways, I am feeling very proud of myself at the moment. That project was making me feel WAY out of my depth and comfort zone, so to have it completed is a big relief and sense of accomplishment.

I also got the 1946 truck laid up for the winter, sad for sure, but I needed to get it done before the snow flies so I could get it into storage dry.
I changed the oil and greased the 1000 or so locations!
I still need to pull the battery and I am thinking of placing it on jack stands to get the weight off the suspension and get the tires off the ground too. Thoughts???

Thanks for following along,

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Oct 25.docx (3.32 MB, 20 downloads)
SHA1: d226f027ba95d78c95082809543f842604bce62e
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1332990 Fri Nov 08 2019 02:56 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Good morning Everyone;

As always, thank-you for checking in and following along.

I was a good citizen and got my annual flu shot, I felt like crap for the next 2 days and then I promptly got sick. The dreaded "Man Cold", I know, I know, pretty serious but I am pulling through and getting better! Thanks for your concern.

Anyways, I got the front splash aprons 90% complete on this round of work. Starting with a cardboard template I quickly found out how much difference there is side to side. Pulling the bumper out here and pushing the fender in there...
Those adjustments helped, but I still needed to make a separate template for each side rather than one I could flip over depending on the side being worked on. I couldn't see the differences with the naked eye and measuring at key points it was within 1/16" but when you laid the template in there it just didn't fit the same.
Once I had the cardboard templates made I copied them on to construction paper and them outlined them with some 1/2" wide tape. Once those were cut out, I then traced that outline on some 18 ga sheet steel and proceeded to cut that out. Some sanding was required to smooth the edges so that no imperfections were transferred to the piece when the edges were rolled over. Once I had the blanks made, I guesstimated where I wanted the raised edge to be, using some clear plastic sheet taped over the blank I traced, cut and then transferred that shape to plywood. The plywood edges needed to be sanded smooth as it would be the guide used when running the piece through the Pull-max and would transfer any imperfections to the raised edge. The 1/2" tape was to allow extra material for the edges which were rolled over last, again using the Pull-max. There is a pivoting shoe and adjustable depth which rolled the edge over 90 deg in 4 or 5 passes through. It turned out pretty good, except for the outer edges as that radius was about 2" and was too tight a curve for the steel to form smoothly. To get it right after I needed to make some zip cuts in the edges and hammer the edges smooth, etc.

It took me about 4 hours to make the templates and what-not, but only took about 1 hour to form the raised lip and roll the edges over. The remaining time was spent on hammer and dolly work, trimming and fitting the pieces as needed to final shape. Welding, grinding and sanding as needed. Total time to get to where I am is about 25 hours. I still need to build the hold down tabs and determine where the fog lamps should be placed. Adding some extra support where they are mounted will need to be done as well. Probably another 3 or so hours is needed.

I am very pleased at how it turned out, once painted and the vintage fog lamps are installed it will really come together.

I did take some pictures, they are attached as usual.
That is all for now,

Attached Files
40 Chev Truck Restomod update-Nov 8.docx (2.85 MB, 29 downloads)
SHA1: 2136fa5f3ffc142ac332fddaa5c70dbc65347f46
Last edited by Canadian_guy; Fri Nov 08 2019 03:00 PM.
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1333043 Fri Nov 08 2019 10:55 PM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 507
Apache1 Offline
Shop Shark
Class is in session............................................................................................................

1959 Apache 3100 Fleetside SWB (Shop Truck) (modified)

Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1333067 Sat Nov 09 2019 02:35 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,556
Fox Offline
Shop Shark
Wow Steve. It looks killer! Nice work. I’m just finally getting back to work on my C10. Funny how 2 little guppies will do that! 😃😎

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1334647 Thu Nov 21 2019 06:03 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hello all;

Another productive week, this time I focused on the rear splash apron. I did learn a lesson though, and that would be to stick with something through to the end. I have been following the advice of my "Guru" and have been jumping around from job to job. It has not been an issue yet, until now. Building the rear splash apron made me realize that the passenger side rear fender had not been installed correctly. This realization caused a few scary moments as it potentially meant that the running boards would be differing lengths and a host of other potential issues.
After measuring and comparing the side to side measurements, we sorted out that I got lucky and the running boards were within 1/16" of each other. The fender was approx 7/16" further to the rear on the passenger side as compared to the drivers side. I was able to fix the issue by cutting the fender section previously made and pulling the fender forward into position. This was good because the DS ( driver side ) was straighter vertically than the PS ( passenger side ). By pulling the fender forward it straightened the fender the same as the DS.
Building the rear splash apron was very similar to the front. Make a cardboard template, transfer it to the sheet metal and cut it out. The rear apron doesn't have the rolled edges like the front apron, but needed a step to drop it down from the bed to the bumper height. The end covers were made to strengthen the apron and add some support to the rear fender, they also hide the visible portion of the frame and bumper brackets as well.

I am still struggling with some motivational issues, thank-you for the kind words as it does help to keep my but in the shop and working. I am still hopeful that I can have the truck on the road for the spring, barring any unforeseen issues... ( insert project hex here )

On a side note, I got the Christmas lights up on Sunday. First time ever I did it in a T-shirt! I seem to prefer to do it in -20C weather when climbing up on the roof is a REAL challenge.

As usual I have attached pictures.

Until next time,

I forgot to add in my hours, they totaled 23 for the week.

Attached Files
Nov 21 Stovebolt Update.docx (2.44 MB, 13 downloads)
SHA1: 97f9c7376ff8aaa1c235591183fb759f0373ac85
Last edited by Canadian_guy; Sat Nov 23 2019 02:21 PM. Reason: Forgot to add in the hours spent
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1334673 Thu Nov 21 2019 10:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 492
TUTS 59 Offline
Shop Shark
I am absolutely in awe of your skills. Some beautiful work.


Come,Bleed or Blister somethings got to give!!!
Q:"What yah runnin"
A:"3/8 drive Black and Decker aquarium pump motor" (the movie HOTROD)

59' Apache 31, long term project (30 years and counting)
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1334689 Thu Nov 21 2019 11:24 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Nah, I can't take the credit. I do follow directions really well though!!!

Notice I don't have any pictures of my welds?? LOL


Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1336574 Thu Dec 05 2019 09:17 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hello all;

As always, thank-you for checking in and following along.

This week was another short week, as I did not spend too much time in the shop. Mostly due to the time of year, prepping for the holiday season, but also a few things that needed doing around the house.

The time I did spend in the shop was spent completing some of the items started but not finished. I needed to complete the install of the mounting clips on the rear splash apron, so that got completed, I do still need to drill a couple holes in the fenders where the apron attaches to it. To drill the holes I need to remove the fender, so I will wait until the fender comes off and then I can drill the holes and finish the welding of the cut sections.

The front splash apron needed the mounting clips made and attached as well, so I got that completed. I was very excited to get the fog lamp mounting holes drilled, they are incorporated into the mounting clips to add re-enforcement to the apron. I played around with the height and placement of the lights and settled on just outside of the bumperettes and back towards the fender. I really love the lights and think they bring the whole "look" of the front end together. For anyone interested they are a reproduction light made by "United Pacific" I had searched for a set of vintage lights, but found mostly singles available. The few sets I did find were horribly expensive and not in the best of shape, and since I am building a resto-mod I went with the reproductions.

Another small item I got done was the rear fender support struts, those didn't take much time at all. I used 1/4" rod and 1/8" flat steel to fab them up, and as no one will see them I did not spend too much time to fancy them up.

Time spent was:
2 hours to complete the rear apron
5 hours to complete the front apron and lights
3 hours to complete the rear fender supports
10 hours total

I have attached a couple pics of the front end as it is now. The finish will be powder coated black, with the lights and the bumper mount bolts in shiny chrome. The grill is stainless, so it will be polished as will the headlight bezels.

I am looking for anyone who may have used a aftermarket hood hinge kit on their truck. There are 2 kits I am looking at, one is from Hagan and the other is from Rootlieb. I will need to modify the 4-piece hood to a 3-piece, but am told that the accessibility to the engine is much nicer. Another benefit would be that the hood can be entirely removed for either access or visibility. Please let me know if you have experience or information.

Here is a link to the Hagan auto site for the hinge kit:


Attached Files
Dec 5 Stovebolt Update.docx (2.78 MB, 15 downloads)
SHA1: 31e5374e7d6362ee63eecb08ccbf93a1bf781467
Re: 1940 Restomod build [Re: Canadian_guy] #1338397 Thu Dec 19 2019 11:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 43
Canadian_guy Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Greetings All and Merry Christmas!

This week was spent using my brain rather than my hands. Not much got done!!!
Continuing my comments from my last update, my guru Dean, was encouraging me to consider purchasing/installing an after-market hood hinge kit.
This would involve adding a lot of hours to the build and cost, with the main benefit being to protect the paint from chips and scratches when opening and closing the hood.
The Hagan kit retails here in Canada for a little over 1000.00 and since there is not a vehicle specific kit available, the install would require modifications to the truck and the hinge kit.
The kit is designed for a 3 piece hood so since mine is a 4-piece, the center hood hinge would need to be removed, then a spacer and supports welded in. A lip would also need to be added to the bottom edge of the hood on both sides to allow the upper hinge frame to be mounted. The side covers would be fixed in place, so they would need to be modified in order to be mounted to the lower hinge support as well.

I have decided to leave it stock, as I intend on driving the heck out of the truck, I am expecting road damage anyways so why would I be worried about the paint? I was going to get the 3M clear protection installed on the front of the fenders, so I might as well get the back of the headlight buckets and along the fender by the engine bay protected too. Another thing is that I am concerned about access to the engine, the existing rad support rods are up pretty high and meet almost in the center of the rad. The lower portion of the hinge would be fixed in place and would replace the existing support. The problem is that it would be right where you are trying to reach through when performing any engine tasks. You would be continuously forced to reach over or under the support and I think that would be very frustrating.

Dean was also suggesting that bear claw door latches be installed as well. They are an important safety upgrade, so I will go ahead and install them. I will work on them starting in January, so you can look forward to updates on that progress.

All the best to you and your loved ones, take care of each other and have a great holiday season.
I will be back with more updates in the new year, see you in 2020!

Attached Files
Marked Up Hood Hinge.jpg (239.14 KB, 16 downloads)
Last edited by Canadian_guy; Fri Dec 20 2019 12:02 AM.
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