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Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1332939 Fri Nov 08 2019 01:16 AM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 126
G
Shop Shark
Sorry, but it's going to take a bit more than 6 minutes to replace it. It honestly wasn't that bad though. The worst part was dealing with the fender welting I added between the cab and fenders.

I have a couple suggestions, assuming your front end is pretty well aligned right now. Don't loosen any bolts except those needed to remove the clip. On the support rods, either mark the location of the nuts, or leave the rear nut in place as I did. Then when you put the clip back on, leave all the bolts a little loose. Use the support rods to pull the clip up into place before tightening everything. I left the support rods in place, so I'm not sure how much play there is in the rear mounting holes, but regardless I think this would work. They do interfere a little with the inner fenders when you remove the clip, but it wasn't that bad to work around them.

The biggest problem is all the little side projects you're going to want to do with the clip removed.


Greg Brown
'49 Chevy 3100
Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1332955 Fri Nov 08 2019 03:51 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 143
R
Shop Shark
I have removed & set in engine and transmission together twice in my '53 without removing front clip. Remove hood, radiator, and radiator support frame. Remove the shroud with the hood latch. The grille stays in place. Inside the truck, remove the center floor pan, which permits you to lift and guide the back of the transmission into place.

Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1332999 Fri Nov 08 2019 05:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,612
C
Shop Shark
We DON'T r&r engines with the front clip in place but if one feels they MUST then we made a tool that makes the job at least 80% easier. First: the lift bar

A piece of 2x3 rectangular tubing with 1/8 wall thickness. Holes are drilled to align with the rocker bolts/studs on a 235/216. The top surface of the tube has a hole big enough for a socket and extension to pass through. Extra holes pictured are for a Buick straight eight and Pontiac I6. Nuts on the underside of the bar keep the bar off the rocker assembly and multiple holes sideways through bar are for hoist hook chain adjustment.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/YG47XbFq/engine-lift-bar-005.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/SnMY2fR8/engine-lift-bar-002.jpg[/img]

Procedure: Set hoist chain on lift bar so engine hangs nearly vertical.
Remove fan blade and water pump
Lower till rear of trans hangs on cross member and continue to lower till chain goes slack
Move chain to a balanced position and when raised engine will slide back into position by itself


Evan
Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1333002 Fri Nov 08 2019 05:50 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 184
G
Shop Shark
I had thought about removing the front clip, but when I went under the truck to apply some penetrating oil, I noticed that the passenger side sheet metal was damaged by rust where it connects to the cab. This wasn't a huge surprise to me, as the inside of the cab is also rusted out where the fresh air heater would attach. I was hoping to leave everything untouched, as it seems to be firmly in place at the moment. Once I can make the truck move on it's own, I planned to address the metal repair. I need to be able to move the truck out of the garage to do this, as I'm sure that I would cause a fire in my garage with welding or grinding. Taking the front clip off isn't really the issue. Storing it while I get to everything is the issue. It's a sad reality for me, but I have no space in my garage for that. Maybe, once I install the engine, that floor space could store the clip. I'll have to think this through....

Thanks, though, for the suggestions!


Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)


My Photobucket Pics

My Restoration Adventure Blog
Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1333005 Fri Nov 08 2019 05:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,030
Master Gabster
I removed the front grill and supports along with the rad. I also used a load leveler . I am glad I had that tool.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Re: Engine Installation Advice
truckernix #1333008 Fri Nov 08 2019 06:08 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 184
G
Shop Shark
I had wondered if that would work. I also have the load leveler. How bad was the angle and how much back and forth was required?


Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)


My Photobucket Pics

My Restoration Adventure Blog
Re: Engine Installation Advice
bartamos #1333443 Tue Nov 12 2019 12:13 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 184
G
Shop Shark
All of the rusted/stuck bolts either broken off or cut off. A few remaining bolts still there, but loosened, so the clip doesn't fall down. Hopefully I'll get the clip off and the engine installed this coming weekend.

Now, back to the original question: other tips, tricks, advice or pitfalls to avoid when I try to install the engine. Anything else?


Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)


My Photobucket Pics

My Restoration Adventure Blog
Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1333463 Tue Nov 12 2019 04:04 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,631
E
Shop Shark
Heating rusted or stuck bolts with a torch and letting them cool down, oil when still warm, will allow most to be easily removed as the heat loosens the rust.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1333464 Tue Nov 12 2019 04:06 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,742
V
Shop Shark
I've done 2 engine/tranny swaps recently on AD trucks, a 235/3-speed with torque tube on a 49 Chevy 3100 and a 350/TH350 auto on a 49 GMC 100.
I documented them on youtube. Some are informational and helpful, some are rambling & probably not as engine swaps on AD's were new to me at the time. I figured it out as I went. It's not rocket science and if you have mechanical abilities you will be successful. Don't get in a hurry and address the problems/concerns as you encounter them, they'll be very evident if there.
Good luck
Dave

Re: Engine Installation Advice
Gray_Ghost #1333507 Tue Nov 12 2019 07:53 PM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,969
F
Shop Shark
I agree, good tutorial Greg on removing front clip.

Back in 90 or 91 I removed the 235 in my 55-1st 3600 with the fenders in place. I removed hood, hood latch/ filler plate, radiator, core support and grille. That method worked okay, but if I had it to do again I would remove the front clip as a unit.

Last edited by Frank50; Wed Nov 13 2019 03:50 PM.

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