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1941-1946 Door Windlace #1332925 Thu Nov 07 2019 10:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 65
P
polaschd Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Can anyone tell me if the windlace starts all the way on the bottom of the door frame or just a couple inches below the first screw hole on the trim?

Re: 1941-1946 Door Windlace [Re: polaschd] #1332982 Fri Nov 08 2019 01:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 997
4
46Sparky Offline
Shop Shark
I started mine at the door frame bottom only because it appeared the few remaining remnants of the original hinted that was the way it was done at the factory. The kit I used included enough material to do it that, with a a few inches to spare, as well.

Re: 1941-1946 Door Windlace [Re: 46Sparky] #1332998 Fri Nov 08 2019 04:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 65
P
polaschd Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Thank you I started the same way

Re: 1941-1946 Door Windlace [Re: polaschd] #1333560 Wed Nov 13 2019 01:53 AM
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 107
O
olezippi Offline
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by polaschd
Thank you I started the same way

Like to see some pics of your work. I have a 49 that has no seals are on the doors and I'm getting a lot of wind noise.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
1949 5 Window 3100
Re: 1941-1946 Door Windlace [Re: polaschd] #1333640 Wed Nov 13 2019 07:01 PM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 58
3
3800GUY Offline
Wrench Fetcher
On my 46 3/4 ton, all of the screws that hold the door windlace in place are still the original clutch head type. Do they have a machine thread on them or a sheet metal screw type thread. It would be nice to keep it original as possible, but if I ruin some of them taking them out, are they available thru any of the truck vendors. Or have a lot of guys just switched to a more modern type screw.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

Re: 1941-1946 Door Windlace [Re: polaschd] #1333657 Wed Nov 13 2019 09:29 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 679
L
Lightholder's Dad Offline
Shop Shark
They are most likely 8-32 machine screws, placed in 18 gauge sheet metal. Use the proper clutch head bit or screwdriver to remove them, after you have cleaned any excess rust/junk out of the head. If really rusted, treat with penetrating oil. If you do all of that, you will likely retrieve all of the screws intact. In the event you damage some, vendors like Jim Carter will sell you a bag of 100 screws that are proper size with clutch head. Be sure to chase all of the holes with a tap when you re-assemble.
Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix

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