Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Driveline Original leaf springs with a 350 engine

I'm planning on using my original leaf springs on my 1950 3100. The driveline will be upgraded to and LT1 with a 4L60E tranny. I've replaced all of the spring bushings...nice and tight now. I don't plan on any burnouts...just something that can pass someone else on the road without getting a run for it, easily maintain interstate speed and sound nice at the same time. What unforeseen issues do you think I might encounter?
P.S. I've installed a Chevy 10 bolt with 3" lowering blocks.

Do have some pics you could post and share with us....thanks.

The original engine and tranny combo is heavier than the LT1/4L60E combo so weight wise you'll have no problem.
Matter of fact, the old time way folks lowered their hotrod V8 powered AD's by removing springs, sometimes down to just 2 springs but I do not recommend following those past practices, LOL.

Your straight axle frontend will work fine with that combination as long as it's tight with no play.

A major unforseen problem you'll encounter is shoe horning that LT1 in with clearance around the stock steering gear box. Theres many interesting techniques builders have used over the decades to remedy that problem, you'll have lots of reading to do on that. Going with an aftermarket power steering setup that moves the steering gearbox up towards the front of the frame is probably the best solution but be prepared to part with some $$$'s.

Another situation that comes to mind is having to remove the rear frame cross member that the OEM bellhousing mounts bolt to. It'll be in the way of your auto tranny. Again there's a few interesting techniques used from running without one (not good) to cutting the OEM and welding bracing around the tranny (good) to making up a total custom cross member (good).

It's all doable and many do it, it'll just cost you alot more $$$'s than installing a fresh 235 or 261.

Good luck
Dave

The "bellhousing" crossmember also serves to stabilize the spring perches, so don't remove it entirely. It's fairly simple to fabricate a dropped center crossmember from flat plate and square tubing that allows for automatic transmission clearance without compromising handling due to frame flex.
Jerry

Boltergeist and Shop Shark...

I forgot to mention that I'll be installing an aftermarket Mustang II so previously mentioned issues hopefully I won't encounter. I have read about moving the bellhousing crossmember back to accommodate the tail shaft of the transmission and modifying the "back" crossmember to accept the driveshaft and any additional clearance issues. I understand that removing any support parts from the frame is a bad idea. I have boxed the rear of the frame from the back of the back crossmember to the support that is riveted in just past the axle hump of the frame. My main concern was torque issues on the leaf springs. As we all have grown accustomed to, we leave stop signs and such with a little more "umph" than we did 70 years ago...horsepower being the culprit. I was just concerned that the 1 3/4" wide leaf springs would hold up for how I expect to drive.

There is no way to predict the way such a badly butchered frame will respond to street driving, energetic or otherwise. Boxing the frame usually results in the formation of stress cracks and other undesirable consequences, but people persist in trying to "improve" a design that was developed over a long period of time by some very skilled engineers and performed admirably for decades.
Jerry

Where did you read about "moving the bellhousing crossmember back"? It is riveted in place and will not fit further back without a lot of cutting, and then you will need to find a way to shoe horn it inside of the frame.
You can unbolt and slide the torque tube crossmember back to support the tail of the automatic transmission.

52 Carl

Thanks for pointing out my wrong interpretation! You are correct...it's the torque tube crossmember.

It's key to remember that these old trucks were designed to flex, the roads and rough service they were subjected to required some amount of give in the frame. If your after a suspension that will act and feel like a modern car or truck your may have wanted to look at an aftermarket frame such as Art Morrison or TCI. A lot of engineering has gone into these new chassis setups.

Unless you've already got a lot of time and money invested in frame modifications, check into using a Dodge Dakota frame and adapting your stovebolt sheet metal to it. They're designed from the get-go for V8 power, the parts are readily available in salvage yards, and you won't be paying an arm and a leg for somebody's hotrod adaptation of a suspension system built for a compact car. Just because somebody wants to solve all my problems by selling me something doesn't necessarily mean he's got my best interests at heart. My advice might be just exactly worth what I'm charging for it, but at least consider a few alternatives to butchering up an original frame, or paying outrageous dollars for somebody's unsubstantiated promises.
Jerry