Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Driveline Original leaf springs with a 350 engine

You have me confused. If you go the MII route the only leaf springs will be on the rear end. Choose the MII carefully as they range from well engineered (Fatman) to el cheepo ebay units that make us cry when they're put on the alignment rack. Here is a pic of a decent unit where the steering rod boot clears the frame to a cheap one that requires serious frame surgery for clearance. Neither are the $$$ ones but show what a bit of shopping can do even in the bargain units. The last pic is just to be a smart a$$ for ones with really deep pockets.

The decent one:[img]https://i.postimg.cc/68K0NxR2/IMG-4756.jpg[/img]

El crapo unit: [img]https://i.postimg.cc/d7Pm9PQt/IMG-4888.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/6y69yydB/IMG-4672.jpg[/img]

Coilover

Is the decent one a Fatman? I assumed all Mustang II's would require the semi-circle notch to be cut out of the frame for clearance issues. I haven't got that far yet so my investigation into them is very limited. In addition, I'm not a welder...are there M II's that are A., bolt-on, B., no-notch and C., decent?

I'm not Coilover, but yes, there are bolt-on M-II systems. Unless you do some custom fabrication while installing that type of independent front suspension, you'll end up with a truck that resembles a redbone hound after a close encounter with a skunk- - - - -nose dragging the ground as he tries to plow a furrow half a mile long! There are ways to avoid the "droop-snoot" look, but only by modifying the height of the M-II crossmember. That definitely requires welding and fabrication skills. Generally speaking, IFS "kits" are a good way to shovel sand down a rathole, dollar-wise! The "good" ones are horrendously expensive, and the cheap ones make you spend a lot of extra money making them safe and reliable. If you don't have a lot of experience building suspension systems from the ground up, you'll be much better off finding someone like Evan in your neighborhood and paying him to get the job done right the first time. Far too many of the hotrodded cars and trucks I have to share the road with are nothing but rolling death traps, and that includes some of the very high-dollar "resto-rods" that I inspect for potential buyers overseas. One guy from Australia keeps me busy- - - - -40-something inspections in the past 10 years- - - - - he's bought about half of them based solely on my photo shoots and test drives. He pays top dollar for this old geezer's opinions!
Jerry

No, the decent one could be from Chassis Engineering, Speedway, or in that price range. The bigger buck ones are from Fatman, Heidt's, etc. There are several that are bolt on and have steering rod boot clearance---Chassis Engineering come to mind. If a boot just rubs the bottom of the frame but is not flattened by the contact a little heat and a BFH will give the needed clearance. Of course the shoe makers kids go barefoot so my 34 Chevy with a Heidt's has been rubbing the boots for years. When one rubs through and starts dripping grease I'll expect everybody to feel sorry for me.

I installed an IFS kit from No Limit Engineering on my '56 3100 and had no issues. It is well designed and and performs as advertised.