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Replace wire from ignition switch to coil on 36 P/U #1330557 Sun Oct 20 2019 08:13 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 12
L
Laportecharlie Offline OP
New Guy
My 36 tall cab pckup quits running after it warms up. I have traced the problem to the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. How does one replace the wire in the steel flex that runs from the switch to the coil?
Thanks,
Charlie


Charlie
Re: Replace wire from ignition switch to coil on 36 P/U [Re: Laportecharlie] #1330734 Tue Oct 22 2019 01:50 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 461
H
Harvester Offline
Shop Shark
Charlie, I don't know if that wire is replaceable by itself. Replacing the wire probably can be worked out, but I think the original remedy was to replace the complete armored cable assembly. And I don't know if the bracket on the coil can be removed from the coil, or if the bracket is part of the coil "can." But first thoughts on the warm stalling is that the coil itself is suspect. Coils tend to fail with heat. For the purpose of testing, see if you can rig up a different coil in place of the existing one. The coil end of the armored cable detaches from the top of the coil, so you should be able to remove the existing coil and mount a later model coil in its place, then run a jumper wire to the "new" coil and see what happens. If the stalling problem is eliminated, the coil is the suspect, but I don't know if you will ever find an original replacement. Some of the vintage parts outlets might have the proper replacement. At risk of backlash, you can use a 12V coil if it doesn't have an internal ballast resistor. 12V coils with an internal resistor will be marked as such, usually stamped in the coil case. The main difference between 6V and 12V ignition coils is the turns ratio; primary to secondary turns of wire. I think the 6V coils have a higher turns ratio, but primary resistance is close to the same for both, around 1.6 ohms. I don't have coil resistances at my finger tips, but I can probably find some if I look hard enough. Maybe others at this site can give better information on your setup. That armored cable setup on Chevrolets was not used after WWII, or maybe after 1946. Hope this helps, although maybe not much.

Dean

Re: Replace wire from ignition switch to coil on 36 P/U [Re: Laportecharlie] #1330823 Tue Oct 22 2019 11:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,909
truckernix Offline
Master Gabster
The Electroloc coil assemblies for 1938 had a removable end where the armored cable enters. You have to slip a toll under the lid and release the holder. I don't think the cable assembly is made to take apart but some people manage to rebuild them.


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Re: Replace wire from ignition switch to coil on 36 P/U [Re: Laportecharlie] #1331021 Thu Oct 24 2019 12:29 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 12
L
Laportecharlie Offline OP
New Guy
Thanks guys. I had to take the key lock assembly apart to get the wire out. I don't think it was designed to be disassembled but I managed to do it without destroying anything. Truck seems to run fine now.


Charlie
Re: Replace wire from ignition switch to coil on 36 P/U [Re: Laportecharlie] #1331025 Thu Oct 24 2019 12:43 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,868
J
Justhorsenround Offline
Grease Monkey, Moderator General Truck Talk & Greasy Spoon
Good job. It’s always great when a plan works out.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2)
‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe


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