I wonder how much a local machine shop would charge to make a tie rod. Tell them you need a 3/4" bar of the proper length, threaded both ends. Give them the tie rod ends and tell them that they have to fit.
Take the right hand threaded tie-rod end to the hardware store and see if it will thread on to a standard 3/4 - 16 bolt. If it does, the rod is wrong, if it won't, the ends are wrong. They should thread on each other with no tools needed, all mine have.
Is the original rod bent? If not you can most likely get the tie rod ends off the existing rod by cutting the bolts off with a hack saw (if you can’t coax them off with penetrant, heat or both) and as 52Carl suggested, use a cold chisel in the the slot to expand the thread. Use some penetrating oil to help break the rust bond. I used that same procedure on my ‘52 and was able to save the parts and just install the rebuild kit. They were pretty crusty but after cleaning and painting looked new.
1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project Journals ‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters “Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube 12v w/ Alternator
Usually the most simple test solves our mystery. This thread should remind us all to start with the most simple things before we jump through all the hoops trying to fix something. This was a good teachable moment!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod