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Winter is Coming
Time to think about wintering your Bolt.
(continued)

A good Tech Tip
WINTERIZING YOUR TRUCK
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 32
D
'Bolter
I got a 1st series '55 Chevy 3600, 8 lug, 3/4 ton truck. I'm in the process of swapping out the front end to 6 lug and will soon be moving on to the rear end. The '55 is an open drive shaft. Do any of you know what 6 lug rear differential years with open drive shaft I can use on my '55?? Thank you all again!!

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,289
5
'Bolter
I would look for a '67 -'70 half ton truck rearend. They are 12 bolt with the correct 6 lugs and the width is very close to correct.

Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 32
D
'Bolter
Thanks for letting me know about that 52Carl I didnt know that!

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,226
J
'Bolter
I used a 65-66 truck rear end on my 46, not to wide, lots of available ratios!


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 32
D
'Bolter
Originally Posted by JiMerit Boltr#43
I used a 65-66 truck rear end on my 46, not to wide, lots of available ratios!


Thanks JiMerit Boltr#43 and 52Carl. I'm very new with this driveline topic. If I end up getting a rear end from a '60s truck with the correct width do I have to worry about swapping out my transmission because of the gear ratio? I currently have the stock 235 engine and tranny. I assume the gear ratio from a later truck differential will be different than the the 4.56 gear ratio that came stock with my 3600. Also can I use my current drive shaft? Thank you very much for imparting your knowledge on this topic!

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,289
5
'Bolter
You might be able to use your current drive shaft. GM is famous for continuity throughout many years of production.

Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 32
D
'Bolter
Ok got it 52Carl I'll let you know what I end up using..crossing my fingers the drive shaft will work with the new rear end. I'm glad I'm not restricted to the '55 1st series.

Last edited by D$TROYER; Sun Oct 20 2019 08:47 PM.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,264
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Shouldn't be an issue with the driveshaft. Worst case, it might need to be lengthened or shortened. If it's just a u-joint fit issue, u-joints with different size cups are available at any good driveline shop.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 32
D
'Bolter
Klhansen thanks for your input. Do you know if I have to worry about a transmission swap since the gear ratio will most likely be different?

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,264
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Unless you're looking at an overdrive transmission, it won't make a difference. Most transmissions are direct drive in top gear.
Your rear axle ratio is 4.57 which is pretty low. Later axles are likely a higher ratio (eg.4.10, or even higher) which would help keep your highway cruising engine RPM down. Unless you're pulling stumps, you don't need a 4.57 rear axle ratio, although you could find an overdrive transmission, which would allow you to use a higher numerical ratio axle and still cruise down the highway at comfortable engine RPM's.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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