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Thanks!

Hmmm,

Pa has a bunch of old deer racks sitting up in the barn loft…

Perhaps I need some more paint racks too?

Looking great, Phil.

I really like the look of that seat material, colour, and pleating.

6/08/23: Today I installed a PCV system on my ‘59 235. I found a genuine GM NOS PCV riser a few years back on eBay, in anticipation of installing it in the future. After obtaining a NOS AC PCV valve (replacement for the original), I proceeded to assembled the rest of the parts needed to do the installation. The only issue I had was the original tubing is 7/16 and finding the tubing and fittings was like finding hens teeth. My solution was to use 3/8” tubing and adapt it to the 7/16” inverted flare needed for the PCV valve.

A test drive proved the installation was a success. Full details on the install can be found here. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...997/re-nos-gm-pcv-valve.html#Post1503997

7/03/23: Look what arrived today. It’s like Christmas in July. Power Disc brakes! WooHoo, although it will be awhile before I get them installed, I’m excited. I need to work out the position of the master cylinder, interference with the rear tranny mount, access to checking the fluid level and wheel interference with the caliper. Time to get to work!

8/15/23: With predicted rain in the forecast, it offered me a chance to get some work done on my truck. For awhile third gear has been grinding if I don’t wait long enough between shifts to third, especially when the tranny warms up. I been wanting to check the fluid thinking it may be the cause of this issue (hoping it’s not the synchro). I do have a drip at the seal between the torque tube and the tranny, so I suspected it would be low. Today I got a chance to to top it off. It took more than 8 ozs. I do hope it solves the issue.

Additionally, a few years ago, after rebuilding my front suspension (springs, king pins, tie rod ends,etc.), I finished the job by adjusting my steering box. I had bought a digital fish scale (0-60 lbs) hoping it would be accurate enough but never felt that it was adjusted right. Last year, after getting a tip about using a scale to measure the trigger pull on a firearm, I purchased one that measures by the 1/4 lb. up to 8 lbs. The adjustment is fairly easy but getting clear access to some of the adjustment screws on the steering box is another story altogether.

I had previously fabricated a tool that attached to a 3/8” ratchet for loosening the large locking nut when I last did this adjustment, but getting a wrench in that area was complicated by hard tubing I added to my oil filter requiring removal of the inlet tube. Making the worm gear adjustment did not go according to plan. It didn’t want to move at all. I had to get creative by using a hand impact screwdriver tip (large), coupled to a couple of long extensions to a tee handle with access laying on my back under the truck. This gave me the leverage I needed to make this adjustment. A few too many trips laying on my back to testing tension on the steering wheel and the adjustment was finalized. After that everything buttoned up quickly.

I haven’t test drove her yet because it was still raining when I finished, but I’m sure I did it right this time. Looking forward to seeing if my work improved things.

9/18/23: A long overdue update. The steering box adjustment was successful as it steers better, but topping off the tranny with oil didn’t make any difference with grinding going into third gear, so I suspect the syncro is bad?

Today I finally started with my Power Disc upgrade. I got the truck jacked up on stands, removed both wheels and stripped the drum brake setup from the spindle. I didn’t get too far before I hit my first snag. The caliper mounting brackets have an offset built into them and the instructions don’t specify which direction the offset goes. It appears from the diagram that’s way too small, the offset went in toward the engine but I wasn’t positive. The CPP kit comes with new grade 8 hardware with a locking nuts that are really hard going on. Fortunately I stopped to clarify.

I knew that I watched a YouTube video on the install by Dave Welch from Brothers Truck, so I rewatched that video. I installed the wrong bracket as the offset needs to go toward the outside of the truck. I didn’t get the nuts on too far so it is an easy fix.

9/19/23: Today I continued my battle installing my new Disk Brake kit from CPP. After watching the video last night on YouTube, I swapped the brackets, torqued the bolts and went ahead with the installation. I removed the drum from the hub, installed the hub and spacer on the rotor, pressed in the new studs, then installed the hub assembly on the spindle. When I tried to install the caliper I discovered I had installed the the wrong caliper mounting bracket. One step forward, two steps back. Did I say the instructions were lacking detail. I watched the YouTube video by Dave Welch from Brothers Truck and he stated that the offset went towards the outside of the truck. In my case that was totally wrong. I suspect CPP may have reengineered the kit and my installation was different. I wish CPP labeled the brackets or clearly showed which way the offset went in the instructions.

At this point, I am a self proclaimed expert on this part of the installation so it didn’t take much time to reverse my mistake.

A couple of installation tips I can pass along:

The drums are riveted to the hubs with no instructions on how to remove them. The Brothers YouTube video suggested grinding off the heads then knocking them out with a drift and hammer. If you ever tried this you know that it doesn’t work really well. An alternative method that works is to first drill the center of the rivet out with a 1/4” drill leaving about 1/8” at the very bottom. Don’t drill all the way thru as you’ll have nothing for the punch to rest on when you drive it out. just enough to get thru the hub to weaken the rivet. Try to get the drill centered as best as you can. Now use a 3/8” drill and drill down until you just reach the drum. At this point grind the remainder of the rivet flush with the drum. Take a punch/drift slightly smaller than the hole and drive it out. It will come out much easier as the 1/4” drill weakened the sidewalls of the rivet.

Once the drum is removed from the hub you’ll need to enlarge the holes for the new screws holding the spacer plate. The instructions say to drill the holes out to 3/8”. I did, and it wasn’t enough to get the flathead allen screws in. I opened it up to 13/64” and solved that problem but the taper on the screws bottomed out on the hub before it was pulled tight to the hub. I used a countersink on the holes I just enlarged which gave me the extra room the screws needed to get the spacer tight to the hub.

In the box with the calipers, I found what looks like a 1/4” thick 1-1/2” round gasket. I wondered why until I went to install the calipers. After struggling trying to get the caliper assembly on the rotor, it dawned in me that they used it to keep the pads apart against the piston and the caliper frame. Once inserted, the caliper went on easily.

One more suggestion. The kit comes with a replacement cap for the hub. I spent about 15 minutes trying to get it installed. Filing the edge trying to get it to fit. I gave up and used my old ones. They fit perfect and are easy to remove. I suspect the new difficult to install ones may be just as difficult to remove.

Hopefully the drivers side will go easy!

9/22/23: Today I continued my installation of my Power Disk Brake Kit. The drivers side went on so much easier now that I’m a “self proclaimed expert”.

Next on the list is to remove the rear tranny mount for clearance for the new power booster/master cylinder, which doesn’t look like it has been removed since it was installed over 70 years ago, so I soaked all the fasteners in PB Blaster. My initial plan is to install the booster assembly in the original position then modify the support to fit around the assembly. I might just end up buying a new tubular support, but won’t make that decision until I see how much the original support would need to be modified.

9/24/23 Today, I removed the rear tranny support. It took me quite a bit of time as I was working on my back on a creeper and there are total of ten 3/8” bolts, five on each side holding that support in, plus four holding the tranny support. with so many ‘bolters questioning whether it was really needed, I wonder why it was so over engineered. I used a 1/2 impact to remove the nuts. I needed to remove the battery to get access the heads of the bolts on that side. I needed to get out from under the truck a few times to give my arms a rest, but I persevered.

I continued to remove the master cylinder and all of the brake lines, getting ready to install the new booster. I installed the booster mount and temporarily bolted in the booster and master cylinder. The push rod is definitely too long and will need to be shortened. How much is yet to be determined.

9/28/23:Continued on installing the power booster. With the power booster/MC in place, I placed the rear crossmember in the frame and slid it up to the booster assembly to visually see the interference. It’s apparent the proportional valve will need to be relocated as it hangs down too far. By relocating the proportional valve, it would allow a minimal notch on crossmember for MC clearance. After looking around for possible locations it looked like the existing bracket mounted in front of the booster would work. The only issue I saw was the bracket had slotted 3/8” holes and the front of the booster uses 5/16” studs that mount it to the included mounting bracket. I opted to fabricate a new bracket so the holes were tighter giving the included lock nuts something to bite into. I pulled the booster assembly out to make it easier to fabricate the new bracket and run new brake lines from the booster to the proportional valve assembly.

I used 1-1/2” x 1/8” angle welded to a small piece of scrap plate to make the bracket. After cleaning up the bracket and sandblasting, I gave it a coat of my favor satin black spray paInt ready for installation.