Stovebolt.com Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project

I like that fuel filter you linked to and a new fuel tank or coating the existing is definitely in her future. Thanks for your suggestions and support!

FIRST START: 3/4/19
The first start didn’t go so well. In preparation I removed the valve cover, the distributor and fabricated a rod to turn the oil pump. I spun the pump with a drill and got oil up to the rockers. So far so good. I replaced the distributor, checking the timing mark and the firing order. I then added a little gas to the bowl via the breather tube and I was ready to go. The moment of truth had arrived. I turned the ignition switch, hit the floor starter and it started after a few cranks. The valves were clattering, the engine was shaking and quickly sputtered to a halt. I tried again to start her up and it results were the same. It acted like it was starving for fuel. I was both ecstatic that it did start but disappointed that it didn’t run so well.

Thinking it was starving for gas, I took off the carburetor, disassembled and re-cleaned with spray carb cleaner only to get the same results. After studying the downloaded Rochester Carburetor rebuild manual, I took off the carb again and found two orifices that were still plugged. One is in the throat where the throttle plate sits for the idle control and the other for outlet of the fuel pump. I thought for sure that I had found the problem. I reinstalled with the similar results. Very frustrating.
 
Still convinced it is starving for fuel I bought a gallon of carb cleaner so I could soak it for a few hours. I let it sit for the afternoon and this time it came out squeaky clean. Reassembled, reinstalled with exactly the same results. At this point I’m not sure what it is.

I read a few post in Stovebolt and one post hit me to keep it simple. I didn’t do much with the distributor aside from checking the points and checking for spark so I figured I would start there. I did a deep look and found that the rotor was a bit wobbly and the cap needed to be replaced. I wanted to get new points and a condenser also. Local parts stores didn’t have any of the parts, so I ordered them. Nothing to do but wait.

3/13/19:After my failed “First Start”, my new distributor parts arrived and I was anxious to install them. The distributor was pretty dirty so I figured it would be best to pull it from the engine. I disassembled the distributor down to the advance weights, cleaned out decades of old grease and dirt then reassembled. I tried to install the new Delco points and couldn’t get them to close. I removed them and reinstalled them a few times and it wasn’t going to work . I compared them to the old set and noticed that they were slightly different. arm was not bent  properly. I needed another set of points that would take a few more days to get. Frustrating!  I took the existing set, cleaned up the contacts, reset to .018” then installed the new condenser. I reinstalled the distributor, the new rotor and cap, rechecked the firing order then reinstalled the wires. The moment of truth. I stepped into the cab, pumped on the accelerator, pulled on the choke, turned on the ignition switch then hit the floor starter switch. Vroom! It started!  A had a big grin on my face. Yea! 

The engine was rebuilt by a previous owner and I didn’t know if a break-in procedure was performed, I decided to do the break in. I placed a stick between the seat box and the accelerator and brought the RPM’s up to 2,000 - 2,500 or so (I don’t have a tachometer), then set my timer. I was shooting for 25 minutes. The engine sounded great. I left the valve cover off so I could see if oil was getting the lifters and they were. It didn’t have any knocking and the valves lifters quieted down pretty quickly with no noticeable leaks. I kept an eye on the oil pressure and the temperature. The temperature peaked at about 180 and after 17 minutes the oil pressure dropped to about 15 lbs. This had me concerned so I shut her down, checked the oil and it wasn’t even on the dipstick. I had checked it before I started it and it was on the full mark. I needed to add oil so I decided it was best to just change it, that way I knew what I had. The oil looked a bit thin and had a strange smell to it. I don’t know if it was break-in oil from 5 years ago or it was diluted with old gas so changing it was the only way to go. I drained more than 6 qts of oil including what was contained in the by-pass filter. Off to the store again.

Later that day I checked the old condensor and found it to be defective. All that trouble for a tiny condenser.

3/14/19: “Maiden Voyage”: I bought 7 qts. of 10w-30 Valvoline and installed. I added oil to by-pass oil filter housing then reinstalled the filter and the cap. It took all 7 qts. to top her off. I started it up and it sounds great, oil pressure was good. The engine wasn’t running perfect but it was time to see if she would drive. I called for my wife to go for our first ride. We didn’t go far but enough to shift thru the gears, go in reverse, feel out the clutch and see if the brakes work. They all checked out OK. I am thrilled. I now have a running, driving antique truck. The gods are shinning down on me.

I parked her in the front yard, to show all the neighbors, (that have been stopping by to see my progress) that I had finally got her started. Later that day I went to move her back to the temporary shelter I erected and she wouldn’t start. I noticed that the ignition switch was in the on position. That couldn’t be good. I had my wife crank her over while I held the plug wire near a ground and there wasn’t a spark. One step forward, two steps back! I ohm’d out the coil and sure enough it was shot. A lesson to be learned. Although I can’t figure how I left it on when I turned it to the off position to shut her down. In the future I’ll have to make sure it is in the off position. 

Congratulations to you, to your wife, and to your truck

And so the adventure begins. From the methodical way you're approaching problems you'll have a quality driver in no time. Good work and Good Luck!

RonR

Thanks for your vote of confidence! I'm sure glad I stumbled across this forum. There is such a wealth of knowledge and experience here for me and others to draw from. I’m sure I’ll be utilizing this resource allot as I progress.

4/10/19: Road trip to NC. I needed to get a signed “Bill of Sale” to get the truck registered because the guy I bought it from didn’t register it so the “title” was still in the previous owner’s name. Luckily I was able to track down the PO and he was more than happy to sign it for me. A retired gentleman in his late 70’s lived near Concord NC not too far from where I bought the truck. I have never been to that part of North Carolina and was surprised at how beautiful it was. Mostly a farming community, with rolling hills, Azalea’s and Dogwood’s in full bloom. I really enjoyed our visit with the previous owner. We talked about some of the issues that he had faced while he owned the truck. He said that he had the engine out several times and was concerned about the low oil pressure. I experienced the same issue when I first started the truck. Initially the oil pressure is pegged at 30 on my 30 lb. gauge but after she warms up drops to below 15 at idle. This does concern me but after reading several post in “Stovebolt” Forums, this appears to be very common to these 235 engines. I figure I’ll run it for the summer to determine if it truly is a problem. He also asked my intent and after telling him I am going to to a frame off he asked if I could keep him updated with my progress.

While in NC, my wife and I visited “The Truck Shop” in Concord NC. Amazing place! The showroom was packed full of antique Chevy truck parts, memorabilia and petroliana. I had a large list of some of the needed items, so we were there for quite a while to take in the place. I was able to get all of the needed parts to complete the new wiper motor install including new wiper arms, blades and all the assorted gaskets and grommets. In addition I bought all the needed electrical and mechanical parts to recondition and rewire the headlights.

4/11/19: Today I replaced the rear spring shackle assemblies. The job went smoother than I expected but I was well prepared. I read several posts on “Stovebolt” on how to remove and install and with a previous visit to a local hardware store, I assembled a removal/installation tool that I copied from this forum. It took a bit of wrenching effort but accomplished the task without a hitch. One of the bushings started to wear into the spring but I think I may have caught it in time so only a replacement bushing was required.

While I had the truck jacked up, I removed the rear brake drums to inspect the rear brakes. The driver’s side was covered with what I believe is rear end lubricant. I think the seal is leaking, requiring removal of the axle to replace the seal.

I am ill prepared for pulling axles on the grass under my temporary shelter so I decided to just clean it up and address the issue when I get the truck to my garage in New York I dubbed “Hak’s Alley Garage”. We are fortunately to own a winter home in South Carolina, splitting our time between our two homes. In 2013 when we moved to our retirement home in New York, my wife got me a street sign for our driveway located on a private road. The street sign say’s “Hak’s Alley” thus my garage we named “Hak’s Alley Garage. We’re thinking of putting that logo on the truck doors.

I like the way you are moving forward with this project. Getting it to start, run, stop and turn are all great things. Can't wait to see the logo for your doors. Good luck.