It’s not usually necessary to remove master or wheel cylinders to hone and rebuild them. Sometimes better to leave them installed if removing might lead to more work than you’re prepared for. Alternatively often easier to just remove them and work on things on the bench and get a better view.
Assuming we are talking about a below the floor master cylinder, I just removed mine in about 15 minutes on my 52’ 3100 to rebuild it. After cleaning and honing, I decided to replace it due to corrosion in the bore that I could not remove. I don’t think I would have seen the issue with the master cylinder installed. I also can’t fathom performing all the work involved in the rebuild lying on my back. In addition, the back of the master cylinder is only a few inches from the rear transmission crossmember so honing it would be near impossible.
I second Grigg’s suggestion to remove and work on the bench. Your back will thank you
1952 Chevrolet 3100 w/‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters “Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube 12v w/ Alternator
Morerog: I have never even thought of doing it on the truck so don't know how hard it is. I've only done it on the bench. could not do a good inspection, ream job, parts insert job or bleed job lying under the truck. It's the brakes you know.
Hijacker: Most, but not all, of the parts at Steele are American made with American rubber. They will last way longer than all the other off shore pieces. Email them to see if this boot is made in USA. If not, the cheaper ones may be from the same source*. If made here, buy that one. Steele used to be 100% American made parts. I guess they had to compete with some parts or not enough demand to build tooling. Anyway, they still make most at their factory.
* Their site says they buy some parts from outside vendors who buy from off shore.
I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30. I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV. I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.